Over my generator, ughh

ATLTiger97 · Sep 13, 2021

I can't even describe what my mechanic and me found last friday, there was mud and water nack where the sleeve should be. Last owner just didnt maintain it. I am about $2.5K in and a bushing is getting ready to fail.

I only have a 280 so my power needs are less, I have a portable honda generator but has anyone looked at the newer electric ones?

https://www.lowes.com/pd/EGO-NEXUS-POWER-STATION-KIT-4X5-0AH/1003130772

Fill Ess · Sep 13, 2021

Not sure what you mean by sleeve ...

Like the plastic sleeve that connects to the back of the water pump?

Fill Ess · Sep 13, 2021

I have a 17-yo boat that has the original Kohler 5e with only 100 hours. It looks great on the outside but it wasn't run enough. My advice would be to get it running properly and keep it that way (easier said than done, I know

) before you go yanking it out or going down some other route. Think resale.

Cocktail Time · Sep 16, 2021

I can recommend a couple of top notch genset guys here on Lanier. Nice boat, I would highly recommend you get what you have running.

ATLTiger97 · Sep 22, 2021

Cocktail Time said:
I can recommend a couple of top notch genset guys here on Lanier. Nice boat, I would highly recommend you get what you have running.

John Dillion did the most of the work, he is great. She is running right now. Now on to my leaking steering pins

ATLTiger97 · Sep 26, 2021

Cocktail Time said:
I can recommend a couple of top notch genset guys here on Lanier. Nice boat, I would highly recommend you get what you have running.

cocktail, you have someone you trust on the lake to work on a stern drive with leaking steering pins. Sadly Singleton wants to yank the engines which is overkill.

Brite Idea · Sep 27, 2021

Pulling the engines is not over kill, it's the fastest and best way to repair the steering pin seals. Yes you can do the repair from outside but it will take longer and once that's done it'll look like a hack repair. Most mechanics could pull both engines in two hours. The steering pin seal seat needs to be carefully examined since the transom assembly can corrode to the point where the new seal won't seat and that is the end of the transom assembly.

Cocktail Time · Sep 27, 2021

I have a couple guys that are great if your boat can stay in the water. If it has to come out, then that narrows the field. I would contact Tony Cato at Cato Marine (770) 596-9639.

ProConMan · Sep 27, 2021

ATLTiger97 said:
cocktail, you have someone you trust on the lake to work on a stern drive with leaking steering pins. Sadly Singleton wants to yank the engines which is overkill.

I have at least 1 leaking steering pin on my 03 280DA. I second BriteIdea - pulling them out and replacing the entire transom assembly is not out of the ordinary and is the 'never worry about it for another 10-20 years' repair. For it to work without pulling the motors, you have to have good seats and if its been leaking a while who knows.

ATLTiger97 · Sep 29, 2021

Brite Idea said:
Pulling the engines is not over kill, it's the fastest and best way to repair the steering pin seals. Yes you can do the repair from outside but it will take longer and once that's done it'll look like a hack repair. Most mechanics could pull both engines in two hours. The steering pin seal seat needs to be carefully examined since the transom assembly can corrode to the point where the new seal won't seat and that is the end of the transom assembly.

Thanks Brite, I wonder about that and if the bit of rust (I think) I can see is from the pin or the transom. The on-site mechanic responded that he was only planning to replace the seals and not the pin, seemed odd to not replace the pin while in there. Here a couple pics. I guess hard to tell until the pin is removed and inspected.

ProConMan · Sep 29, 2021

ATLTiger97 said:
Thanks Brite, I wonder about that and if the bit of rust (I think) I can see is from the pin or the transom. The on-site mechanic responded that he was only planning to replace the seals and not the pin, seemed odd to not replace the pin while in there. Here a couple pics. I guess hard to tell until the pin is removed and inspected.

Doesn't look as bad as mine, but yea until you take something apart you never know.

Is he doing the JR marine repair?

ATLTiger97 · Sep 29, 2021

ProConMan said:
Doesn't look as bad as mine, but yea until you take something apart you never know.

Is he doing the JR marine repair?

First thanks for everyone on the advice, great to have a place to share and learn.

Mechanic on site wants to pull engines, about $4k if he can reseal. Waiting on a quote from another mechanic on JR Marine or Mercury version. One was $5k per drive as he wants to do full outdrive service at the same time.

ProConMan · Sep 29, 2021

Thats better than MD pricing. My transom assembly likely needs to be replaced, and nobody around me will consider the JR marine repair. I was quote between 6-10K per drive... The transom assembly itself is $2400. I decided I'm doing it myself this winter as labor around here is currently astronomical at $150 an hr across the board. I did find somebody at $100 but then the problem becomes that those marinas are full up so I can do it there.

Nater Potater · Sep 29, 2021

ATLTiger97 said:
The on-site mechanic responded that he was only planning to replace the seals and not the pin, seemed odd to not replace the pin while in there.

The pins aren't cheap (~$350), and, as long as they're in good condition, I'd be inclined to re-use them myself. That being said, there is the option to upgrade to stainless if they aren't already. Yes, even more expensive, but, if you're in salt water, probably the better route.

ATLTiger97 · Oct 2, 2021

Nater Potater said:
The pins aren't cheap (~$350), and, as long as they're in good condition, I'd be inclined to re-use them myself. That being said, there is the option to upgrade to stainless if they aren't already. Yes, even more expensive, but, if you're in salt water, probably the better route.

So update, pulled her yesterday and bellows need replaced also the shift cable bellow was loose. Did a quick fix with mechanic on reattaching them with a zip tie while I waited on the parts.

well this morning came to boat and she is pouring water in. Raced the boat to be lifted and the shift cable bellow had ripped.

So she is dry and now having full out drive service, pins fixed and also having the out drive repainted and any spots fixed.

Glad I went this morning.

Nater Potater · Oct 2, 2021

That's where mine went bad. Definitely hard to see behind the engines, but at least mine wasn't coming from the steering pins. How old were your bellows? I've been told to replace them anywhere from 3 to 5 years. I think a lot of that has to do with how the boat is stored, and whether or not it's left with the outdrives in the "trailer" position (like mine were).

ATLTiger97 · Oct 3, 2021

I am not positive on the age since she is new to use this season. I never replaced the bellows on my 07 chaparral. The difference is the chaparral was dry stacked and this sea ray is wet slipped.

I always leave the drive fully down. Pissed the surveyor missed the drive pins ( clearly can see the rust) and he said the bellows looked good. I had so little maintenance in the chaparral I didn’t know the tell tale signs, shame on me.

Third boat but have learned more in the last 5 months then I did in the last 10 years of boat ownership.

bellows, drive service, pins and also painting drives are just a good idea for an 04. Done now I should have some good seasons ahead.

Brite Idea · Oct 7, 2021

I think that transom assembly maintenance at 3-5 years is over kill I inspect every year but actual replacement of the bellows on the current and last boat have been at 8-10 years. I've heard rack stored boats in Florida are the fastest to degrade because of the heat. I'd also add that fresh water and saltwater boats have different issues.

Creekwood · Oct 7, 2021

ATLTiger97 said:
So update, pulled her yesterday and bellows need replaced also the shift cable bellow was loose. Did a quick fix with mechanic on reattaching them with a zip tie while I waited on the parts.

well this morning came to boat and she is pouring water in. Raced the boat to be lifted and the shift cable bellow had ripped.

So she is dry and now having full out drive service, pins fixed and also having the out drive repainted and any spots fixed.

Glad I went this morning.

Yikes! The shift cable bellows is what can sink your boat. You got lucky. I would never have done a quicky repair on that if it was loose. It must have been leaking before the zip tie bandaid.

I found out about the importance of that bellows on my last boat. I had noticed a small amount of water in the bilge when before it was dry. Then one day we were at a beach and I had the drive trimmed right up to trailer setting and walked the boat in shallow. After about 5 minutes the bilge pump kicked in. I opened the hatch and water was coming in pretty quickly. Bombed it back and had the boat pulled. Mechanic said that it had likely cracked a few weeks earlier but because the drive was down in the slip, it held mostly closed so only a slow leak. Trimming it up full tore it right open.

ATLTiger97 · Nov 22, 2021

So update. Bellows, steering pins, carrier bearings, and epoxy/paint are done. Only missing stickers and getting in the water. Some before and afters.

Over my generator, ughh

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