Fuel Sender Alternatives

Dec 8, 2007
1,139
Dartmouth MA
Boat Info
1997 Sea Ray 400DA
Cat 3116 TA
1994 Sea Ray Laguna CC 250 Tohatsu
Engines
:
I need to finally get a handle on my inoperable fuel gauges. Before I go out and buy Kus-USA senders, is there a more modern alternative to them? I don’t want to give up the mechanical gauge. Is there something that will plug into the NMEA2000? I don’t want to do a whole new system like a maretron setup. I already have 4 displays. Appreciate any input!
 
I have used the Maretron TLM-100's for the past 5 years and wouldn't even think of using anything else. They are N2K and highly accurate to the gallon when not moving. I use the DSM410's and Garmin displays to view fuel levels. They report fuel level, fuel remaining and when used with the DSM410 total fuel remaining. With these level senders there is no need to spend that amount of money on true gal/hr sensors. After a few trips you will know exactly how much fuel you use and not a guess. Best money ever spent on a sender.
 
What would I do with the two mechanical gauge spots? I heard they are a pain to set up(program) and I thought I read they they dump theinformation and often need reprogramming. Have you experienced this?
 
I dumped the swing arm mechanical senders for hall effect senders. Measure the depth of your tank. subtract 1", and look for that size.
fuel sender.jpg
 
I dumped the swing arm mechanical senders for hall effect senders. Measure the depth of your tank. subtract 1", and look for that size.
View attachment 112834
Something like this is what is was looking at. I thought I would ask if there was something that would get my mechanical gauges to work and be compatible with NMEA. I would be willing to go just NMEA 2000 if someone could come up with a use for the two fuel gauge spots at the helm.
 
Something like this is what is was looking at. I thought I would ask if there was something that would get my mechanical gauges to work and be compatible with NMEA. I would be willing to go just NMEA 2000 if someone could come up with a use for the two fuel gauge spots at the helm.
Ah, sorry, missed the dual desire of analog and NMEA. There are 2" round NMEA displays. Just going to be expensive to implement. The Maretron mentioned above, I believe is a sender like I pointed out, wired to the analog signal to NMEA 2K interface. don't know if you could splice into the analog side to continue to feed your analog gauges. Probably not, as it would affect the ohm range of the analog side. But, I'm reading where some interfaces do allow for that. The Hull truth has some exciting reading, that usually go about 200 posts long, but are informative. Might be dated info, though.
 
What would I do with the two mechanical gauge spots? I heard they are a pain to set up(program) and I thought I read they they dump theinformation and often need reprogramming. Have you experienced this?

Nope never lost info, but are easy to program if they did. They only need height and total gallons of the tank.

What to do with the open spots, good question. Would need to see the dash to answer that one. But your all digital any way aren't you? Go the rest of the way and re-configure the dash over the winter.
 
Nope never lost info, but are easy to program if they did. They only need height and total gallons of the tank.

What to do with the open spots, good question. Would need to see the dash to answer that one. But your all digital any way aren't you? Go the rest of the way and re-configure the dash over the winter.
30FF7E4F-1F04-41D1-A287-DCB4E1CEEE89.jpeg



12824F8D-0AD1-498C-8D3C-D6EDB7957773.jpeg

What peripherals do I need to program it? If any. Above are the photos of the helm. Two Garmin 942, two Garmin 742 autopilot GHC 20 and steam gauges. Let me know if you can think of something to replace fuel gauges.
 
... What peripherals do I need to program it? If any. Above are the photos of the helm. Two Garmin 942, two Garmin 742 autopilot GHC 20 and steam gauges. Let me know if you can think of something to replace fuel gauges.

You can have Maretron program them if you buy them directly from them, otherwise you need one of there display's like the DSM410 or their USB 100 or IPG 100.

You could put in Racor fuel pressure monitors or you could add something like this to act as idiot lights from the SR system monitor panel.
 
Thanks to you I’m starting to have expensive thoughts. I could look for 2” NMEA fuel gauges. I know it’s redundant because it would be on mfd’s.
 
Thanks to you I’m starting to have expensive thoughts. I could look for 2” NMEA fuel gauges. I know it’s redundant because it would be on mfd’s.

I've heard that before, but hey it's your boat right?

And yes they are expensive, personally I would re-make the dash panel and add a DSM 410.

https://navstore.com/oceanic-systems-panel-gauge-fuel-level-2-black-face-3350-f.html

https://www.lowrance.com/en-sg/lowrance/type/gauges/lmf-200-ce-pk-asy/#prl_product_details

Edit: Too funny @techmitch I found the KUS as well but wasn't sure if that was 100% N2K.
 
I'll second the Maretron TLM-100's. They fit the 5 bolt pattern and no moving parts. I've had 2 years and no programing issues. They are DEAD NUTS on while sitting at rest. My port side reads regardless of run angle, my starboard does not, and likely needs a focus tube installed (so far too lazy to do that project, maybe this winter).

As far as programing, its a pretty simple process. For a rectangular tank (most Sea Rays), I think you only need the depth of the tank and the total capacity (I did this the first day and haven't looked since). I called Florida Marine Tank to confirm my tank dimensions and capacities. They responded pretty quick along with a basic drawing of were the baffles are inside in case a cleanout access ever needs to be cut (god forbid).

There are stand alone displays if your wanting to fill the hole. Otherwise, you can recut the gauges dash pretty easily .

I replaced all of my gauges with 2x DSM410's, but I left the gauges up under the dash in case a future owner wanted to go back to analog.

Have a Maretron USB-100 I'll loan you if you go that way.
 
You can get a new mechanical fuel sender and connect that to a N2K converter, but you still have the mechanical sender and need to fill the 2" hole.

You can not have 2 gauges connected to the sender...so you got to choose.
 
I'll second the Maretron TLM-100's. They fit the 5 bolt pattern and no moving parts. I've had 2 years and no programing issues. They are DEAD NUTS on while sitting at rest. My port side reads regardless of run angle, my starboard does not, and likely needs a focus tube installed (so far too lazy to do that project, maybe this winter).

As far as programing, its a pretty simple process. For a rectangular tank (most Sea Rays), I think you only need the depth of the tank and the total capacity (I did this the first day and haven't looked since). I called Florida Marine Tank to confirm my tank dimensions and capacities. They responded pretty quick along with a basic drawing of were the baffles are inside in case a cleanout access ever needs to be cut (god forbid).

There are stand alone displays if your wanting to fill the hole. Otherwise, you can recut the gauges dash pretty easily .

I replaced all of my gauges with 2x DSM410's, but I left the gauges up under the dash in case a future owner wanted to go back to analog.

Have a Maretron USB-100 I'll loan you if you go that way.
Very generous thank you.
 
... The Maretron mentioned above, I believe is a sender like I pointed out, wired to the analog signal to NMEA 2K interface. don't know if you could splice into the analog side to continue to feed your analog gauges. Probably not, as it would affect the ohm range of the analog side. ...

The Maretron TLM100 is an ultrasonic sensor with no moving parts and is purely NMEA2000 with no analog capabilities.

As @dtfeld mentioned, they are very accurate at rest. Maretron offers focus tubes, which help stabilize the fuel movement while underway. If you decide to use focus tubes make sure they can be installed. I purchased the tubes but could not install them. The tanks are too close to the deck, even though 4-5 inches below the deck and the sender all the way to the inboard side of the tank. There just wasn't enough room to angle in the tubes. As a result of not using the tubes, while underway the fuel gauges are not accurate at all at times due to the fuel slashing around.
 
The Maretron TLM100 is an ultrasonic sensor with no moving parts and is purely NMEA2000 with no analog capabilities.

As @dtfeld mentioned, they are very accurate at rest. Maretron offers focus tubes, which help stabilize the fuel movement while underway. If you decide to use focus tubes make sure they can be installed. I purchased the tubes but could not install them. The tanks are too close to the deck, even though 4-5 inches below the deck and the sender all the way to the inboard side of the tank. There just wasn't enough room to angle in the tubes. As a result of not using the tubes, while underway the fuel gauges are not accurate at all at times due to the fuel slashing around.
that's when I get out my hole saw, and make an "Inspection Plate" from above. Thanks for the info on the Maretrons. I didn't dig deep on it.
 
that's when I get out my hole saw, and make an "Inspection Plate" from above. Thanks for the info on the Maretrons. I didn't dig deep on it.

Yeah I was going to try that, but the plate would be partially in the hatch groove, but was considering a 2" hole saw to the groove itself, just not confident that would be enough.
 

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