Rudder position indicator

Juliery said:
Your work looks good - creative resolution to what some find a need for.

Still mystified by "Maybe I'm just toying with the chattering class. Generally inept, they hypothesize the most grotesque excuses to perpetuate their lazy defense of the status quo they purchased into." from a sober man, though. Regardless of your dismissive assessment, I still have no need of an indicator for my sterndrive position - just another solution looking for a problem.
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you could always try facebook if you have nothing to contribute and wish to broadcast.
 
Coupler. Spotted a zerk where the driveshaft would be. A "coupler" in my engine manual, it is to have 8-10 strokes of "coupler grease" every 2 months or 50 hours. May require an extended fitting on grease gun. OK.
 
Arminius said:
Coupler. Spotted a zerk where the driveshaft would be. A "coupler" in my engine manual, it is to have 8-10 strokes of "coupler grease" every 2 months or 50 hours. May require an extended fitting on grease gun. OK.
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There are actually 2 zerks, opposite each other. Coupler grease is extreme pressure grease for the shaft splines. Use 4 pumps from the grease gun for each side. I have an 18" flex hose on the gun to get to them.
 
I tried the Davis helm-hub mount and it was not reliable. Added Velcro, but never looked to it when needed as I couldn't remember when last checked/reset. I didn't fuss with it as there was some inherent defect. Maybe my tilt wheel was at an angle. Still thinking about the Banggood unit. I don't think the Swede's double roller is going to avoid arm flexing at lock and a post may be better than his roller gate. I've run enough gates and done more sliding than carving. Back to my post idea I think. Here's a pompous accent saying Jim's hub indicator is a piece of crap:
Simplest post will be 1/4" rod bent into a figure "8" with a torch, placed over protruding transom bolts and terminating in a vertical stub: the post. It's going to look Mickey Mouse. Maybe angle iron. Simple is good though.
 
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I agree the UK version is a piece of crap. The USA made model has a pointer that moves when the wheel is turned and only then. Boat rocking has no effect.
 
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On my installation, the factory loop will go around a 1/4" post between the bolt ends coming out of the transom. The issue is allowing for the changing radius as the
potentiometer shaft is rotated. I've got a good sliding connection without angular play by inserting a .125" aluminum spacer. Getting a precise fitting without modifying the stock was pleasing. Had to trim the width with a hack saw and drill a 3/8 or so clearance hole for the nub at the base of the setscrew (no longer used.)

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Not going well and I will give up if I don't think of a new approach. Got the figure 8 rod bent and mounted but the back of the SS strap caught a cooler hose clamp. It is too complicated and the space is too tight for the high reliability I need in this relatively inaccessible area. Will check where my disused Davis indicator was made. The Swede had more room in his dual 4.3 rig but I really doubt his sheet metal disaster is still working.
 
Arminius said:
Not going well and I will give up if I don't think of a new approach. Got the figure 8 rod bent and mounted but the back of the SS strap caught a cooler hose clamp. It is too complicated and the space is too tight for the high reliability I need in this relatively inaccessible area. Will check where my disused Davis indicator was made. The Swede had more room in his dual 4.3 rig but I really doubt his sheet metal disaster is still working.
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You gave it a noble effort. Let this one go. Your time and talent are better utilized on something else.
 
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Juliery:
Thank you very much for your kind words. This is exactly how I felt after coming back from the helm and seeing the image above. But, perfection is the enemy of practicality, why don't I flip the strap back around, secure it with the set screw, drill the strap and use a spring? The percentage of expansion can be adjusted as recommended for a SS spring and it could last a long time.
There is no marking obvious on my Davis hub unit as to origin. It is not a piece of crap. It works reliably when vertical but much less so when tilted, as for my Sig 200 tilt wheel.
I'll try a spring provided the pot still works. Thank you again Juliery.
 
Arminius said:
View attachment 113125 Juliery:
Thank you very much for your kind words. This is exactly how I felt after coming back from the helm and seeing the image above. But, perfection is the enemy of practicality, why don't I flip the strap back around, secure it with the set screw, drill the strap and use a spring? The percentage of expansion can be adjusted as recommended for a SS spring and it could last a long time.
There is no marking obvious on my Davis hub unit as to origin. It is not a piece of crap. It works reliably when vertical but much less so when tilted, as for my Sig 200 tilt wheel.
I'll try a spring provided the pot still works. Thank you again Juliery.
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You are welcome and you get full marks for innovation ... and persistence!
 
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Spring works. I'll order a stainless version. Lots of zip-ties before I put the lid on this. Used lock-tite on set screw. Image ****842 is with rudder and wheel amidships. Next image in a week or so will be of dash with installed indicator. Thank you, the old wheels turn slowly.
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Starboard is full over on the gauge. S/Arminius aka "the Plywood Guy"
 

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Autopilot! Talked with an old friend who fishes about this project. He was very familiar with the issues as they arise in installing autopilot. While he installed the expensive full suite, his buddy improvised as I have done. Not all the play was removed as the buddy's boat "hunts" as they both head out to fishing grounds. The Swede's double roller concept seemed very sophisticated for an improvisation. With the lid off the engine, my checklist remains fairly long.
 
Stainless spring is MSC catalog # 04076071 3/8X.035x1&1/2. Extension spring; catalog shows strength. My radius is 4" to 4.250 so I did not need to put much tension on it. Experimenters should note that strength:wire thickness is not arithmetic and could be exponential. Springs cost $30 cause you have to buy 10. I could have tried .030 but am happy.
 
Juliery said:
There are actually 2 zerks, opposite each other. Coupler grease is extreme pressure grease for the shaft splines. Use 4 pumps from the grease gun for each side. I have an 18" flex hose on the gun to get to them.
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One zerk as I reached behind it and checked. Alpha 1, Gen 2.
 
Words of wisdom on engine hatch cover are invited. I removed it while boat was outside. Replacing. Now I'm in garage and slid it back astern, slightly propped open, and have managed to get four hex head 1.5x1/4"x20 bolts in with an open end although I should have purchased a ratchet box end. The hex heads are about .030 thicker than the stock pan head but upon closing, I could not reopen. A 11/16th wrench fits in handle slot and loosens a bit. Lid now comes up and I won't latch it again until I take it outside and put in all fasteners. Obviously, this can be worked out but wondered if there are any pointers.
 
Got it buttoned up. Drive direction indicator replaced voltmeter. Voltmeter is in hole cut for water pressure gauge. Latter moves to new hole fore of throttle. While I was remounting engine hatch cover, I replaced nut securing latch prong with 4" drilled and tapped strap (can't rotate). Now a 11/16th" wrench slipped in finger slot will definitely open a jammed compartment.
Informed Susan that I will no longer need her assistance in docking. No longer any need to futilely look back at spot where outboard should be when I pull this I/O in. I'll put dock on starboard and rope a cleat myself.
 
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