58 Sedan Bridge Official Thread

When we’re traveling, I tend to use the shore water 99% of the time due to more inconvenient refills, doing more laundry, and the notion of taking on water in my tank from a questionable marina source.

Yep, that's what we were faced with on the way home.

-Chris
 
Thanks, that back-feeding thing would have taken me quite a while to find! Couldn't prove it works that way, but it seems semi-logical. Apparently our "Rope Locker" valve on the manifold doesn't actually work, though, since it wouldn't shut off either city water or tank water to the rope locker.

That routing speaks to the filter issue, too. It should mean city water isn't being pushed through the filter, which in turn means our underwhelming city water pressure is just a factor of dock supply and/or maybe we still have some residual mineral build-up in the faucets/showers that I haven't completely discovered yet. Our galley sink is worst; I've opened up the pull-out spray head and cleaned it out, but pressure there really sucks.

FWIW, I prefer to have the correct O-rings on hand prior to starting, if I can. I have to change whole-house filters at home approx every 2-3 months, and the O-rings usually only last through 3 changes each. After that, they just won't seal the system. Here on the boat, unless the main inlets on the water manifold act as one-way check valves... (any ideas about that?)... opening the filter could mean a dead boat during the time it takes to find a local store that happens to have the right size O-ring. Don't want to go there if I can help it...

-Chris

@ranger58sb
Regarding your galley sink, ours too was basically down to a drip. If yours is a Grohe, there is a quick disconnect under the sink/behind the access panel.
It should be this:
https://www.grohe.us/Bathroom-Faucet-Fittings-and-Spare-Parts/Quick-Coupling/GROHE-CHROME-46315000

I had called Grohe and they pointed me at this. I bought a new one, and did replace it, but it turned out my original one had some(LOTS of) activated charcoal in it I guess from the PO and the whole house filter. It made a big difference in the flow out that faucet.
 
@ranger58sb
Regarding your galley sink, ours too was basically down to a drip. If yours is a Grohe, there is a quick disconnect under the sink/behind the access panel.
It should be this:
https://www.grohe.us/Bathroom-Faucet-Fittings-and-Spare-Parts/Quick-Coupling/GROHE-CHROME-46315000

I had called Grohe and they pointed me at this. I bought a new one, and did replace it, but it turned out my original one had some(LOTS of) activated charcoal in it I guess from the PO and the whole house filter. It made a big difference in the flow out that faucet.
Home Depot carries the cartridge for the galley sink, as well. Just take the old one with you, the model number is printed on it, and match it to one at HD.
 
@bmac Thanks, Brian, that's a good tip. So far, the cartridge itself seems fine.

@Shaps Your tip also led me to find Grohe's installation diagram for the fixture, which in turn helped me figure out how to take more of it apart... and I did find yet another sediment trap (inside the "rubber" end of the faucet head) that was clogged up. Cleaned that out, good improvement... even if our city water pressure is still a bit anemic. I also located the Quick Coupling easily enough, with your tip. I didn't yet go through the antics it would take to get it off... does it have sediment screens too? Did you mean your original coupling actually had charcoal sediment in it? Or did you mean sediment in the other two screens, at both ends of the faucet head?

Anyway, all that in turn led me to revisit the sediment screens in the head sinks. Oddly, the screens in the master head were all gooped up again, even though I had cleaned them relatively early on when we first arrived at the boat. Had to; we had almost no water flow, then. Guest head sink now, not so much trouble, but then that's been used much less often in these last two months.

So now, back to that whole filter thing. And "a questionable marina source" for water. We've been semi-aggressively filtering city water as it comes in, with a 25/1 micron dual-gradient sediment filter. OTOH, circumstances didn't make it easy to filter water as we filled our tanks during the trip, so while we've got "city water" in there, it must not be all that great, and there may be a boatload of lime or calcium or whatever in there. Which may be where the sediment in the faucets has been coming from.

Oh, wait, that's what the onboard filter should have trapped! Oh, wait, I opened that up today and there was no filter element inside! Great...

Which led me back to my earlier question about O-rings. Sure enough, the O-ring that was on it was not re-usable. That O-ring was flat in cross-section, not round. Looked like it would be re-usable until I removed it from the housing to clean the ring and the track; it wouldn't fit back inside the track after that...

My stash had three candidates of round (cross-section) O-rings. One was a package of two GE O-rings, the #2 version being fatter in cross-section and slightly larger in diameter than the other (#1). The others I had were #151121 O-rings for Pentek Slim Line filter housings/sumps (and these rings happen to look identical to the GE #2 rings). All of these look to be approximately the same diameter, and slightly larger in diameter than track in the installed sump. I think Pentek is a Shurflo brand (or the other way around.)

Eyeballing these all together, they all look to be the same diameter. They're not, but that's only easily provable by trying each in a given sump's O-ring track.

What actually worked was the GE #1 ring, even though round cross-section, not flat. If it helps, these would be for GE housing/sump models GXWH04F, 20F, 20S; GXRM10GBL, and GX1S01R. (I used one of these on the previous boat for a .5 micron carbon block filter element.)

Excepting the carbon block filter elements I had on hand, my immediately available choices were Pentair (a Pentek brand) S1, pleated, 20 micron; Hydronix SPC-25-1020, pleated, 20 micron; and FiltersFast FF10S-25, solid, 25 micron. Latter is an FF clone of another Pentek filter, but I don't have that product number off-hand and it was out of stock at FiltersFast at the time anyway. I used the Pentair S1, this time... and I reckon I'll see how that goes. Didn't notice any reduction in water flow with the onboard freshwater pump running.

@tc410 Oh, and I also confirmed the "Transom Shower" valve on the water distribution manifold is the one that controls the incoming city water supply. Good to know that!

-Chris
 
Last edited:
Home Depot carries replacement O-rings for the water filters.

@bmac Brian, do you know product number, what sump they're sized for, etc? Or what filter housing/sump we have in the boat? I see the Shurflo brand cited in the Parts Manual (and I think Shurflo and Pentek and related), but don't know what housing size we actually have. No useful markings on the housing that I can see. O-rings for the Pentek sump I have won't fit the sump in the boat. You'll maybe have seen in my earlier post, O-rings that look pretty much alike aren't interchangeable...

-Chris
 
@ranger58sb one other maintenance point to check and clean - the plastic prefilter on the intake side of your water pump. There’s a clear screw-on bowl with a screen inside. That can be pretty nasty if no one has ever inspected and cleaned it. See how yours looks.

Once you get all this stuff put back together, and you’re at your home port with known water supply, I’d suggest a shock treatment of bleach to the entire system. This will require 2-4 full-tank flushes to rid the residual chlorine smell/taste, but it’s worth it for peace of mind. I usually do it each spring after winter layup.
 
@ranger58sb ’d suggest a shock treatment of bleach to the entire system. This will require 2-4 full-tank flushes to rid the residual chlorine smell/taste, but it’s worth it for peace of mind. I usually do it each spring after winter layup.

I remove my filter, and use a gallon of clorox to 1/4 tank of water. Run it out of all faucets till you smell it, and let it sit 3-4 hours. Then, as you said 3-4 full tank flushes.
 
@ranger58sb one other maintenance point to check and clean - the plastic prefilter on the intake side of your water pump. There’s a clear screw-on bowl with a screen inside. That can be pretty nasty if no one has ever inspected and cleaned it. See how yours looks.

Once you get all this stuff put back together, and you’re at your home port with known water supply, I’d suggest a shock treatment of bleach to the entire system. This will require 2-4 full-tank flushes to rid the residual chlorine smell/taste, but it’s worth it for peace of mind. I usually do it each spring after winter layup.

I remove my filter, and use a gallon of clorox to 1/4 tank of water. Run it out of all faucets till you smell it, and let it sit 3-4 hours. Then, as you said 3-4 full tank flushes.

Thanks, Jeff/Carter. And yep, ref pre-filter. Actually I replaced that already with the new one that came with the new water pump. I shocked the system on the second/third days after we got to the boat for our first visit in early July. I usually do that once/year, sometimes twice/year depending on filtration when we've filled the tanks. Given my cavalier filtering on this boat so far, I'll probably shock again within the next week or so...

-Chris
 
Gentlemen, (you too, Carter)
Am still running the original E120s and Raymarine AP and Radar in TBIV
What, if anything, have you done in terms of replacements?
Everything I have works, and we have bought the retirement home in St. Thomas USVI so the 58 will give way to a sailing Cat in 4-5 years.
Trying to decide if I should upgrade and if so, what to install.
And yes, I have heard all the raghauler jokes.
 
Gentlemen, (you too, Carter)
Am still running the original E120s and Raymarine AP and Radar in TBIV
What, if anything, have you done in terms of replacements?
Everything I have works, and we have bought the retirement home in St. Thomas USVI so the 58 will give way to a sailing Cat in 4-5 years.
Trying to decide if I should upgrade and if so, what to install.
And yes, I have heard all the raghauler jokes.

This is the latest thread. http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/raymarine-vs-garmin.106184/
 
Gentlemen, (you too, Carter)
Am still running the original E120s and Raymarine AP and Radar in TBIV
What, if anything, have you done in terms of replacements?
Everything I have works, and we have bought the retirement home in St. Thomas USVI so the 58 will give way to a sailing Cat in 4-5 years.
Trying to decide if I should upgrade and if so, what to install.
And yes, I have heard all the raghauler jokes.
Hi Skip!
Great to hear from you!

I have an E120 and and e127 that replaced the original Sea Ray Navigator along with the original AP, analog radar, and analog AIS. My E120 screen is starting to degrade, so if I replace it with a digital Axium, I will have to convert the radar and AIS to digital. I know how to work my analog radar on the E120, and have used it successfully in unforcast fog. I'm considering just having the screen repaired on the E120 and sticking with that for radar and AIS...
 
Gentlemen, (you too, Carter)
Am still running the original E120s and Raymarine AP and Radar in TBIV
What, if anything, have you done in terms of replacements?
Everything I have works, and we have bought the retirement home in St. Thomas USVI so the 58 will give way to a sailing Cat in 4-5 years.
Trying to decide if I should upgrade and if so, what to install.


We have a non-functioning Sea Ray Navigator, an orphaned Raymarine VHF radio speaker, and a functioning Raymarine autopilot which isn't connected to a GPS/plotter.

Somebody along the way replaced the (Raymarine E120? Raymarine radar? Raymarine tranduscer? ) with a Garmin 7612xsv, including radar and depth. The 7612xsv is at least one generation old, now, software and charts needed updating. Ditto somebody along the way replaced the original Raymarine VHF (I assume) with an ICOM M400 with command mic, not connected to GPS.

Learning the Garmin ecosystem hasn't been horrible, their charts are at least OK, and when I asked their customer service for update info (both operating system and charts) they were very responsive. I don't know if Garmin includes Explorer Charts, which are said to be critical in the islands. Depth disappears from time to time, especially (I think) in very shallow water and over soft mud.

I've learned I cannot reliably touch a given icon on a touch screen, even in calm water, and the Garmin MFD has no hard buttons to use instead. The result is that sometimes to plotter decides to show me something I didn't want to see, NOT show me what I actually wanted to see... and recovering can take a few steps.

I installed an all-Furuno suite (excepting for ICOM VHFs) on our previous boat, and given a clean start I'd likely do that again. I expect to add another VHF with loud hailer, another depth finder (or more probably a fishfinder), another MFD (to replace the dead Sea Ray Navigator), and AIS.

Given functioning Garmin stuff and the likely cost of a replacement, I might either mix-and-match, or I might add more Garmin pieces. Mix-and-match could well depend on whether I can route data from the existing Garmin sensors to a new Furuno MFD, which is maybe unlikely, or at least limited. I'll probably think on it for a year or so (and do some research) before deciding how to proceed.

But in your situation, given everything works, what improves if you update now? A future buyer could well prefer to do the update, picking and choosing by preference from whatever's new 4-5 years from now.

-Chris
 
Last edited:
@bmac Brian, do you know product number, what sump they're sized for, etc? Or what filter housing/sump we have in the boat? I see the Shurflo brand cited in the Parts Manual (and I think Shurflo and Pentek and related), but don't know what housing size we actually have. No useful markings on the housing that I can see. O-rings for the Pentek sump I have won't fit the sump in the boat. You'll maybe have seen in my earlier post, O-rings that look pretty much alike aren't interchangeable...

-Chris
Chris, you've already got the solution. Those filtr housings are the same as the GE units. I don't recall the model number but it's the GE single white or blue canister. If I had to guess it's the 40 Series you stated above.
 
Ha! Thanks, Brian! And I just got to the same answer via another route, too! So details here, just in case useful for somebody else...

I hadn't yet taken the time to go through the paper "manuals" for various systems... and it's raining here today, so... I found the original sheet for the Waterguard filter systems by Shurflo. That sheet describes the RV-10UC/RV-10VIH (10" filter) on one side and the RV-5UC/RV-5VIH (5" filter) on the other side.

The Pentair/Shurflo website lists the current -- presumably equivalent -- as an RV-10UC-A, with garden hose fittings here: Pentair Filter Filter Housing | RV & Marine Filtration | Filters

Their catalog here Pentair Shurflo RV Pumps, Filtration and Accessories Catalog includes reference to the 10-piece O-ring kit #94-178-09.

Amazon has that 10-piece kit for ~$30. The picture shows it as round in cross-section, not flat. Their product description also says the O-rings are compatible with GE GXWH04F, which explains why the GE #1 O-ring that I used yesterday worked.

Now that I've sorted most of this out, I've begun to routinely turn on the onboard freshwater pump so we can cycle ship's water faster. Our current capacity is smaller than what we had before, but I'm thinking having both city water and boat water turned on at the same time... which we never did before... might mean the tank doesn't cycle quite as quickly as it would with only ship's water enabled. Maybe.

-Chris
 
Last edited:
Gentlemen, (you too, Carter)
Am still running the original E120s and Raymarine AP and Radar in TBIV
What, if anything, have you done in terms of replacements?
Everything I have works, and we have bought the retirement home in St. Thomas USVI so the 58 will give way to a sailing Cat in 4-5 years.
Trying to decide if I should upgrade and if so, what to install.
And yes, I have heard all the raghauler jokes.

I will preface with I am a network engineer turned into a software engineer by trade and I like shiny new reliable electronics!

I will also say I plan to go back to being a "rag hauler" in the coming years to do tour of the south pacific.

On my last two boats I have had all but Furuno, but have played a ton with the Furuno.

I installed Simrad on my Grady White - LOVED IT. Incredible Autopilot and at the time the only solid state dome radar on the market (Garmin had just released theirs) and it worked great at close range. The new versions of Halo are supposed to be incredible.

On my 44DA I installed a Garmin to replace a failed E120 - only used it for charts but HATED the interface and wasn't all that keen on the charts, but now as I understand Garmin is more open on charts since the purchased Navionics. Pure hearsay but I have heard the Garmin open array radars good but unreliable. I have witnessed two of them being swapped out over the last couple of years - never asked why but saw them, but have never seen another brands radar replaced other than switching from one brand to another.

A year later the other E120 acted up so we pulled it all out including the AP and installed Axiom Pro with Magnum Radar. The Magnum radar is a huge step up from the analog, but no where near as nice as the solid state radars. I am very happy with the current Axiom, Axiom+, Axiom Pro lineup and interface.

New 58DB had Axiom's installed as well as Magnum radar, but original AP.

When looking for our 58DB, the plan was to install Furuno if it came with anything other than Simrad or Axiom already installed.

I only mentioned the sailing bit above, because 80% of the sailing world today uses B&G, sister to Simrad. It might be helpful if doing a total replacement to consider Simrad as it will translate well to a B&G system.


IMHO:
Furuno has the best (by far) radar setup
All have good AP's but maybe a nod to Simrad
Furuno has the best interface and chart options
Simrad has the best sonar (but since most of us rarely or never fish this is a non issue).
 
Thank you all for your feedback. This is the best owners board
- hands down.

We ran TBIV 250 miles last weekend....down the Potomac and up the Chesapeake to Cambridge MD and return.

Steep 4’ on the bay with spray over the hard top Friday morning (NOAA Forecast winds NW @ 7, seas 1-2‘ ) and the old girl kicked ass. Backed down to 14 knots and had a comfortable ride north.

Such a shame that Sea Ray lost sight of quality control and pissed away owner loyalty with the L Series.....but 58s in my year are listed in the mid $600s

Who would have thought.....

Skip
 
Flag pole?

The Parts Manuals says:

1190354 POLE, FLAGSTAFF YACHTS AFT SS 40"
(WATER DELIVERY - INCLUDES SAFETY PKG & FUEL)
(YACHT FLAG AND FLAG POLE)​

685214 FLAG, USA 2'X 3'
(WATER DELIVERY - INCLUDES SAFETY PKG & FUEL)
(YACHT FLAG AND FLAG POLE)​

I'd have guessed Taylor Made would be OEM, but I don't see a 40" one on their site in the "Stainless Steel Flag Poles" section: Flag Poles & Accessories | Taylor Made (taylormadeproducts.com)

OTOH, if they made a stock #906 (not listed) I'd guess it could be 40" or so -- at least in between their #905/36" and their #907/48". And then again, Taylor Made recommends a 2'x3' (24"x36") flag with their #904, 30".

Our boat doesn't have a flagstaff, unless it's buried somewhere and I just haven't found it yet. The recessed socket is there, but I can't tell if the staff should perhaps be stepped to fit down inside the smaller hole too.

Can anyone clue me in?

-Chris
 
@Shaps Thanks! So the OEM flagstaff wasn't stepped at the bottom to fit inside the smaller hole down there? So that's likely just a drain hole?

That'd make it all easier...

-Chris
 

Forum statistics

Threads
112,950
Messages
1,422,862
Members
60,932
Latest member
juliediane
Back
Top