40 sedan bridge forum

scooper321 said:
We’ve been looking for ways to get a bit more lighting on the bridge. Someone posted awhile back pics of under-seat lighting using LED light strips. His was white. We went with blue, to match our other bridge and speaker lights. We had enough to wrap around the rear of the port seat, which now also illuminates the stairs.

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We just installed Philips Hue gradient lightstrip last year and used loctite marine glue, looked great at first and then it started to come off at corners under seats...I guess I didn'd do such a hot job :)
Yours looks great.
CaptRonn said:
The hatch is easy to rebed. Remove the flange screws and lift up. Clean the area very good, use a good sealant and reinstall.

The hatch itself has two latches that go through the top. Those have o-rings and they can leak as well. When replacing the o-ring lubricate them.

The hatch gasket is made by Taylor Made. Contact them for a replacement gasket. Remove the old one, clean up the flange and reinstall the new one.
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Thank you for the information. I will try to do all once I get a hold of Parts. Speaking of parts, OMG, I have been trying to get a hold of Taylor Made to get part no. / place an order since your posting several times... Music on hold for 20+ minutes and then it says " Nobody available at extension"
 
torobcheh said:
We just installed Philips Hue gradient lightstrip last year and used loctite marine glue, looked great at first and then it started to come off at corners under seats...I guess I didn'd do such a hot job :)
Yours looks great.

Thank you for the information. I will try to do all once I get a hold of Parts. Speaking of parts, OMG, I have been trying to get a hold of Taylor Made to get part no. / place an order since your posting several times... Music on hold for 20+ minutes and then it says " Nobody available at extension"
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Verify this is for the 20X20 hatch https://www.boatid.com/taylor-made/d-sponge-hatch-gasket-mpn-1725.html?singleid=118728934
 
While we are talking about seals, does anyone have the source for the anchor locker gasket?
 
Anyone else run into this? I have a recurring problem with the salon door latch. The screws on the little box holding the clamshell latches together, back out over time and causes the box to separate and the latch to fail. Fix is simple. Take it out and line everything up and screw it back tightly. I just had to do it yesterday. About two years since the last time. Going to try blue thread locker on the two little screws next time.
 
ZZ13 said:
Anyone else run into this? I have a recurring problem with the salon door latch. The screws on the little box holding the clamshell latches together, back out over time and causes the box to separate and the latch to fail. Fix is simple. Take it out and line everything up and screw it back tightly. I just had to do it yesterday. About two years since the last time. Going to try blue thread locker on the two little screws next time.
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Thread locker will work.

What destroys these latches are repeated door slamming. Each slam causes to screws to back out.

Lubricating the latch mechanism and the bolt on the frame helps.

This weekend I'm placing a decal on each side of the door that says "Please Open and Close Gently, Do Not Slam the Door".
 
ZZ13 said:
Anyone else run into this? I have a recurring problem with the salon door latch. The screws on the little box holding the clamshell latches together, back out over time and causes the box to separate and the latch to fail. Fix is simple. Take it out and line everything up and screw it back tightly. I just had to do it yesterday. About two years since the last time. Going to try blue thread locker on the two little screws next time.
Click to expand...

Thread locker will work.

What destroys these latches are repeated door slamming. Each slam causes to screws to back out.

Lubricating the latch mechanism and the bolt on the frame helps.

This weekend I'm placing a decal on each side of the door that says "Please Open and Close Gently, Do Not Slam the Door".
 
scooper321 said:
This would not go well with my first mate. Please report back on how your decals are received by your crew! Lol
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I don't give a shit how it's perceived. I do care that I don't want an expensive door replacement. I've had family and guest go to close the door, and when it didn't close completely at first reopen then slam it to get the latch to seat. That repeated slamming damaged it.
 
Have a leaking accumulator tank that I need to replace this week. My factory unit has a single connection to my water system to provide pressure. The new replacement tank seems to be in line. I don't know anything about these other than they provide pressure to the system. Can one side of the inline fitting just be capped off? Has anyone done this?
 

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Drafter said:
Have a leaking accumulator tank that I need to replace this week. My factory unit has a single connection to my water system to provide pressure. The new replacement tank seems to be in line. I don't know anything about these other than they provide pressure to the system. Can one side of the inline fitting just be capped off? Has anyone done this?
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Mine split in two at the horizontal seam. I already had two of the newer Aqua King II pumps in place of the factory originals. They don’t require an accumulator. So I just removed it and capped off the waterline. A little later I replaced the cap with a pressure gauge so I can check the pressure in the line if I want/need to. I epoxied the accumulator back together but have never tested to see if that worked.
 
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ZZ13 said:
Mine split in two at the horizontal seam. I already had two of the newer Aqua King II pumps in place of the factory originals. They don’t require an accumulator. So I just capped it off. A little later I replaced the cap with a pressure gauge so I can check the pressure in the line if I want/need to. I epoxied the accumulator back together but have never tested to see if that worked.
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Thanks Bill, I figured if anybody had worked on one it would be you. I considered pulling it off and messing with it, but for $75 I didn't want to put a 20 year old used part back on that may or may not fix the problem. My pumps are still factory (as far as I know). Pressure to the line should be pressure to the line. Can't imagine capping off one side wouldn't work.
 
Drafter said:
Thanks Bill, I figured if anybody had worked on one it would be you. I considered pulling it off and messing with it, but for $75 I didn't want to put a 20 year old used part back on that may or may not fix the problem. My pumps are still factory (as far as I know). Pressure to the line should be pressure to the line. Can't imagine capping off one side wouldn't work.
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Ha! Yeah. I’ve seemingly run into everything. We were at lunch in our winter slip in FT Pierce about five years ago. Came back from dinner and the bilge pump was in full continuous operation. It was essentially pumping out the water tank by way of the fully opened up accumulator.
 
ZZ13 said:
Ha! Yeah. I’ve seemingly run into everything. We were at lunch in our winter slip in FT Pierce about five years ago. Came back from dinner and the bilge pump was in full continuous operation. It was essentially pumping out the water tank by way of the fully opened up accumulator.
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"Winter slip" in Ft Pierce? You're in SC, right? Do you find you need to head south to avoid winterizing or is it more of a lifestyle choice?
 
Drafter said:
Have a leaking accumulator tank that I need to replace this week. My factory unit has a single connection to my water system to provide pressure. The new replacement tank seems to be in line. I don't know anything about these other than they provide pressure to the system. Can one side of the inline fitting just be capped off? Has anyone done this?
Click to expand...
I just capped the other end off. I like having the accumulator tank as it a stops the shaking of the lines (like a house one) and also because the pump runs more smoothly. I also replaced my pumps with big 5GPH pumps so when water is not an issue I can take two nice hot powerful showers also the hose I use on the back has a ton of pressure. I have the water savers out on the showers.
 
JASON P GRIFFITH said:
I just capped the other end off. I like having the accumulator tank as it a stops the shaking of the lines (like a house one) and also because the pump runs more smoothly. I also replaced my pumps with big 5GPH pumps so when water is not an issue I can take two nice hot powerful showers also the hose I use on the back has a ton of pressure. I have the water savers out on the showers.
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Did it work ok with the one side capped off? The Jabsco tech just called me back and told me that all of the new accumulator tanks are now in line vs. on a dead end like the factory installation and said it would not work properly. He did not provide much information beyond that. That did not seem to make much sense to me. We're always at our dock overnight (lake boat), so water is never an issue. I do use the tank and both pumps vs. the hose inlet. If a fitting failed in the middle of the night, 150 gallons of water into my bilge is a little more reassuring to deal with vs. a constant flow until I discovered it.
 
Mine cracked in winter of 17. I replaced it with Shurflo 181-201. it's on amazon for like 37 bucks. I capped one end and it works fine as a accumulator / expansion tank...
 
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