40 sedan bridge forum

dgerrit · Aug 3, 2021

scooper321 said:
Thx. Got one on order; should arrive tomorrow. As for installing, I'm no stranger to taking a file, a Dremel or a jigsaw to a helm! I never like doing it, but I do it!

I've been eyeing the switch that also indicates the trim tab position. I just need the current one to break already because Its like $400 at West Marine. But it would be nice...

JASON P GRIFFITH · Aug 4, 2021

dgerrit said:
Does anyone need or want my Stainless canvas enclosure structure? I believe its the standard stock one. I attached photo of canvas on it for reference. I tossed the old canvas. I installed the hardtop and do not imagine ever going back. Its huge and I'm not sure how you'd ship it or transport it easily. But I'd like to get it out of my yard if anyone wants it in Northern California for free. I hate to chop it up if someone could use it.

I believe you can direct message me if you're interested.

freight... couple hundred I believe through a shipping company I believe if someone was curious.

Carpediem44DB · Aug 4, 2021

dgerrit said:
Does anyone need or want my Stainless canvas enclosure structure? I believe its the standard stock one. I attached photo of canvas on it for reference. I tossed the old canvas. I installed the hardtop and do not imagine ever going back. Its huge and I'm not sure how you'd ship it or transport it easily. But I'd like to get it out of my yard if anyone wants it in Northern California for free. I hate to chop it up if someone could use it.

I believe you can direct message me if you're interested.

Did you check to see if Kurt over at Delta Canvas works wants it? Also have you posted Pics of the new top. I remember setting you up with Barrett to see the top on his boat Isle Decide over at Willow Berm. Congrats on getting it completed that is a big job!
Carpe Diem

torobcheh · Aug 4, 2021

dgerrit said:
Does anyone need or want my Stainless canvas enclosure structure? I believe its the standard stock one. I attached photo of canvas on it for reference. I tossed the old canvas. I installed the hardtop and do not imagine ever going back. Its huge and I'm not sure how you'd ship it or transport it easily. But I'd like to get it out of my yard if anyone wants it in Northern California for free. I hate to chop it up if someone could use it.

I believe you can direct message me if you're interested.

Hi can you tell me more about the hardtop? Pics?

scooper321 · Aug 5, 2021

dgerrit said:
I've been eyeing the switch that also indicates the trim tab position. I just need the current one to break already because Its like $400 at West Marine. But it would be nice...

I looked at those, too. But on Amazon and on the Bennett sites, not on WM's! Much less expensive. The thing I couldn't get my head around was if the ones that showed trim tab position needed trim tab position sensors to be installed to feed the position data back to the switch. It looked like they did, and since I don't have TT position sensors, I got the basic switch. If I ever add the TT position sensors they will be NMEA 2000 capable and I'll get the position on the chart plotter, rather than the switch. Although some of the switches were N2K capable, so I suppose they could read the info off the network, too. But much higher on my list of N2K sensors than TT position sensors are fuel tank and RPM sensors... the list is never done!

ZZ13 · Aug 6, 2021

ZZ13 said:
Thought I'd try this here before I open a new thread on it. I clean the boat's bottom myself. In salt 24/7 year round boating. Its pretty easy to do as I have a process now for it. Except for the inside of the underwater main exhausts. Barnacles and oysters can get pretty thick in there if you don't stay after it. I need to invent a tool to scrape everything off. I can get my hand/arm all the way up there fine but I need downward leverage to pry stuff off. First try is going to be a screwdriver bent back almost the full 180 degrees. First one I tried broke. So must have been cast. Should I try bending something else (putty knife) or are there bendable metal screwdrivers out there.

By the way, I've tried everything known to man on the metal running gear and nothing really works to stop hard growth. The barnacles and oysters just love the hard surface regardless. Best solution I've found is a once a week jump into the water to wipe it all down to stop growth from starting.

Here is what won out. Inverting the drywall blade with the handle in my palm and blade at wrist let’s me get 90% of everything off. I can hold the edge of the blade to scrape along the inside of the tube in a rotational pattern. Shorty flat head let’s me dig into nooks. Now that it’s all clean I’ll continue weekly cleaning to keep stuff from starting.

dgerrit · Aug 7, 2021

Carpediem44DB said:
Did you check to see if Kurt over at Delta Canvas works wants it? Also have you posted Pics of the new top. I remember setting you up with Barrett to see the top on his boat Isle Decide over at Willow Berm. Congrats on getting it completed that is a big job!
Carpe Diem

Yes, i remember as well. That meeting with Barrett solidified my resolve to build it! I did ask Kurt. He did the new canvas for the hardtop and suggested i send the frame overboard...

dgerrit · Aug 7, 2021

torobcheh said:
Hi can you tell me more about the hardtop? Pics?

Sure. It was quite a project. But I had access to a shop and skilled craftsmen to help me build it. I designed it out of aluminum with SS support posts. I tried to match the boat lines the best i could. Current challenge is getting the roof liner panels to stay put when it gets hot.

Gregl · Aug 8, 2021

dgerrit said:
Sure. It was quite a project. But I had access to a shop and skilled craftsmen to help me build it. I designed it out of aluminum with SS support posts. I tried to match the boat lines the best i could. Current challenge is getting the roof liner panels to stay put when it gets hot.

Looks good. Who put the crane on the bow? How is it supported inside. Greg

david_h · Aug 8, 2021

Gregl said:
Dave, we just had our canvas done and I had the installer make and sew about a 2in. X 10 or 12 inch piece with a piece of round rubber sealer on the outside facing forward. It has been helping some. I will see if I can get some pictures the next time I am at the boat. Greg

Thanks Gregl (post 5685) and Njlarry (post 5674), responding to my query about canvas in the cockpit. It would be great to see any pix that you can provide. FYI, I have been out on Lake Huron (North Channel) with spotty connectivity, so I haven't been able to reply.

Thanks again - Dave

Steve S · Aug 8, 2021

Anyone have a lower area carpet runner for a 2000 400 DB?

Strypes · Aug 8, 2021

My 400DB is a 1997. I have all the runners and don't want them. Do you want the runner in the companionway that runs from the galley into the master stateroom?

torobcheh · Aug 8, 2021

dgerrit said:
Sure. It was quite a project. But I had access to a shop and skilled craftsmen to help me build it. I designed it out of aluminum with SS support posts. I tried to match the boat lines the best i could. Current challenge is getting the roof liner panels to stay put when it gets hot.

I have been thinking of hardtop placement but that sounds like quite a bit of a project! Pics look great, love what you have done!

torobcheh · Aug 8, 2021

Does anyone know where I can buy a replacement gasket for the 20x20 deck hatch in master stateroom? The original part number is 968362. We had heavy rain last night a a bit of water leak.

Steve S · Aug 8, 2021

Strypes said:
My 400DB is a 1997. I have all the runners and don't want them. Do you want the runner in the companionway that runs from the galley into the master stateroom?

Strypes, that’s the one I am looking for. Not sure of the 97 is the same as the 2000, but yes.

CaptRonn · Aug 8, 2021

torobcheh said:
Does anyone know where I can buy a replacement gasket for the 20x20 deck hatch in master stateroom? The original part number is 968362. We had heavy rain last night a a bit of water leak.

Are you sure it's the gasket? The other leak sources are the o rings in the two latches, and also under the hatch flange.

I rebedded the hatch flange as well as replaced the o rings, and I replaced the gasket. I believe it was a Taylor Made part.

scooper321 · Aug 8, 2021

We’ve been looking for ways to get a bit more lighting on the bridge. Someone posted awhile back pics of under-seat lighting using LED light strips. His was white. We went with blue, to match our other bridge and speaker lights. We had enough to wrap around the rear of the port seat, which now also illuminates the stairs.

Carpediem44DB · Aug 8, 2021

dgerrit said:
Sure. It was quite a project. But I had access to a shop and skilled craftsmen to help me build it. I designed it out of aluminum with SS support posts. I tried to match the boat lines the best i could. Current challenge is getting the roof liner panels to stay put when it gets hot.

That is a very sharp design, You must be thrilled. I drew up plans to do a carbon fiber enclosure for the 44DB, I was using a profile similar the later model hardtops on the larger DAs. It was just too big of a project knowing that we were looking to move up in a couple of years. Thanks for sharing the pics.

torobcheh · Aug 9, 2021

CaptRonn said:
Are you sure it's the gasket? The other leak sources are the o rings in the two latches, and also under the hatch flange.

I rebedded the hatch flange as well as replaced the o rings, and I replaced the gasket. I believe it was a Taylor Made part.

Just started to leak on the starboard side. Hope it is not the flange. How difficult is the rebedding of the hatch flange? Do you have to remove the whole hatch? I recently installed an Oceanair sunshade...hope I don't have to uninstall all of that.
This past weekend the hatch started leak, the gray water pump stopped working...ugh

CaptRonn · Aug 9, 2021

The hatch is easy to rebed. Remove the flange screws and lift up. Clean the area very good, use a good sealant and reinstall.

The hatch itself has two latches that go through the top. Those have o-rings and they can leak as well. When replacing the o-ring lubricate them.

The hatch gasket is made by Taylor Made. Contact them for a replacement gasket. Remove the old one, clean up the flange and reinstall the new one.

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