420/44 DB Owners Club

bajturner said:
I have been doing a lot of digging on this. Here is what my understanding is at this time:

Item number 42 in this drawing, the aftercooler housing (Cummins 3974305) is what I am looking for:

View attachment 105676

However, according to Cummins, this part (the housing alone) is not sold on its own anymore.

In the drawing below, item 35, which is a complete aftercooler (items 36 to 43, in above drawing, inclusively), is what you can by. This part was originally 3974306, then superseded twice, 5301727 then 5443623.

View attachment 105677

I have found 5301727 here: https://s1partscenter.com/brands/cummins/aftercooler/5301727 (5 in stock this morning). This is the same part number that is referenced by Seaboard Marine for the complete aftercooler as well as the housing (they show 1 in stock, but they are out of stock).

I am a little nervous about buying 5301727 in case it gets here and is the wrong part. I would be out 2xshipping (~US$400), 15% restocking (US$450), import fees, fees, etc.

Since everything else (cores, caps) look good and came apart well, for the start of these season we are going clean everything up and then MacGyver the end of the housing so the cap doesn't leak and work on sourcing a new housing, or more likely an entirely new aftercooler (~US$4K).

Here are some pics:

View attachment 105678

The sealant you see is from last fall's MacGyvering! Should have ordered the housing then!!

View attachment 105679

View attachment 105680

It is strange that the starboard one looks like brand new, but is apparently original.

Should be all back together in a couple of days, then a few hours to swap-in a new one later...
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You are correct. I have done 2 sets of these QSC 500 aftercoolers in the last several months and needed housings for both boats and could not buy just the housing. We lucked out and were able to purchase the aftercoolers, at that time from Seaboard for around $3500.

I would be very careful with McGyvering your housings. If there is a leak behind the O rings on the end caps your engine can get a taste of water. They don't like water even if it is fresh! It could make the cost of the new aftercooler seem cheap.
 
becnme said:
You are correct. I have done 2 sets of these QSC 500 aftercoolers in the last several months and needed housings for both boats and could not buy just the housing. We lucked out and were able to purchase the aftercoolers, at that time from Seaboard for around $3500.

I would be very careful with McGyvering your housings. If there is a leak behind the O rings on the end caps your engine can get a taste of water. They don't like water even if it is fresh! It could make the cost of the new aftercooler seem cheap.
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Agreed. I just had that conversation with the tech. In one of the pictures there is what looks like a sign of some water bleeding around the o-ring. Definitely need to be careful...
 
newfreedom said:
I am the original owner of 2005 420 Sedan Bridge. (48OCE). My vessel has been a dream boat. My Cummins 480Ce have run for over 15 years with absolutely no problems. The temps are in the same range year after year. I believe the 480CE got a bad rap (head problems) from improper running & improper maintenance. Running this boat over loaded 2350+rpm, over propped for too long.... is way too much. These motors are workhorses if you run them right. My boat sweet spot is at 2200-2250RPMs, 22-24knots. I recommend anyone interested in purchasing this beautiful boat w/480CE run the boat between 1750-2300RPMs. It will run forever.
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Thanks for sharing, newfreedom-its good to hear a 420 DB 480CE testimonial that isn’t all fire and brimstone:)

I bought a 2004 with one prior owner last summer with 480’s that are now just over 800 hours each. Love the boat. Have devoured the info on 480ce’s available at Seaboard and on the Cummins forums at boatdeisel and decided to pitch my props down this winter from 26x26x4 with some cupping to 26x24.5. Will generate some new fuel consumption numbers this weekend and hoping to get closer to the 450 diamond 13.6 GPH target at cruise (2200). Previously ran just under 15.

interested to see what props you’re turning and what your fuel curves look like....
 
Hi Everyone
I have a 2006-44' Sea-Ray sedan bridge that I store outdoors under a custom made "Genco" winter tarp. Extremely high winds this past winter must have pounded the tarp until 3 bow rail stanches broke away from the mounting flanges, (just above the welds). To re-weld, I will need to remove 12 bolts to raise the flanges, to stop heat transfer. Two broken pipes are approximately parallel to the bottom of the lower wind-shield. The other one is parallel to the back of the hatch. This lines up with the medicine cabinets and the master state room closets. Does anyone know if there is an easy procedure accessing the nuts to remove these flanges?
Thanks in advance.
Doug Seiler
 
zoomer2699 said:
Hi Everyone
I have a 2006-44' Sea-Ray sedan bridge that I store outdoors under a custom made "Genco" winter tarp. Extremely high winds this past winter must have pounded the tarp until 3 bow rail stanches broke away from the mounting flanges, (just above the welds). To re-weld, I will need to remove 12 bolts to raise the flanges, to stop heat transfer. Two broken pipes are approximately parallel to the bottom of the lower wind-shield. The other one is parallel to the back of the hatch. This lines up with the medicine cabinets and the master state room closets. Does anyone know if there is an easy procedure accessing the nuts to remove these flanges?
Thanks in advance.
Doug Seiler
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I had a 260DA that had to have the bow rail replaced. To access the nuts on the bottom of the one above the medicine cabinet, a hole was cut and an inspection plate put over it.

Unless someone comes back with an answer, your best bet is going to be to call or email SR and ask how to access the nuts.

Bennett
 
bbwhitejr said:
I had a 260DA that had to have the bow rail replaced. To access the nuts on the bottom of the one above the medicine cabinet, a hole was cut and an inspection plate put over it.

Unless someone comes back with an answer, your best bet is going to be to call or email SR and ask how to access the nuts.

Bennett
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info !!
 
zoomer2699 said:
Hi Everyone
I have a 2006-44' Sea-Ray sedan bridge that I store outdoors under a custom made "Genco" winter tarp. Extremely high winds this past winter must have pounded the tarp until 3 bow rail stanches broke away from the mounting flanges, (just above the welds). To re-weld, I will need to remove 12 bolts to raise the flanges, to stop heat transfer. Two broken pipes are approximately parallel to the bottom of the lower wind-shield. The other one is parallel to the back of the hatch. This lines up with the medicine cabinets and the master state room closets. Does anyone know if there is an easy procedure accessing the nuts to remove these flanges?
Thanks in advance.
Doug Seiler
Click to expand...


The medicine cabinets come out very easily. I removed the one in the stateroom to get to the shower valve and there is a lot of access behind the cabinet. Just pull the 4(?) screws on the trim edge of the cabinet and it will pull right out but you do need to remove the box for the outlet also.
I did not pay attention to the stanchion bolts but this is the first place I would look.
 
We are going to replace the galley fridge, once again what has everyone replaced with
 
RBB said:
We are going to replace the galley fridge, once again what has everyone replaced with
Click to expand...

I replaced ours in the 44DB with another Norcold. It was available same day, I was going to sell the boat, and it was cheapest. Other than the compressor being quieter, it was not a good choice. The gasket around the freezer door would not seal. I added more gasket, changed the gasket, all to no avail. It needed to be defrosted at least every 3-4 weeks. Ice would build up something awful. I would not buy another Norcold.

Bennett
 
becnme said:
The medicine cabinets come out very easily. I removed the one in the stateroom to get to the shower valve and there is a lot of access behind the cabinet. Just pull the 4(?) screws on the trim edge of the cabinet and it will pull right out but you do need to remove the box for the outlet also.
I did not pay attention to the stanchion bolts but this is the first place I would look.
Click to expand...
There are screws on both sides and two on top. Remove the outlet and box. Just push it inside the opening.pull down the two lights above the vanity. Not a difficult job ,lots of access. Good luck
 
Has anyone replaced their fuel sending unit with the OEM replacement from Florida marine tanks? I saw on another forum there is a puck designed sending unit that is more efficient and has no moving parts. Already purchased the new replacement sending unit but was curious if anyone else has used the puck design. Also is it difficult to change the starboard tank sending unit?
 
Jeff Carrick said:
Has anyone replaced their fuel sending unit with the OEM replacement from Florida marine tanks? I saw on another forum there is a puck designed sending unit that is more efficient and has no moving parts. Already purchased the new replacement sending unit but was curious if anyone else has used the puck design. Also is it difficult to change the starboard tank sending unit?
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There is a access panel for the sending unit under the Solon couch
 
Mark.60 said:
My fridge in the cockpit has a bad leak.I fill it with beer on Friday and it seems to leak out by Sunday
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Yep I just replaced the cockpit fridge and like you it still leaks beer.
 
Jeff Carrick said:
Has anyone replaced their fuel sending unit with the OEM replacement from Florida marine tanks? I saw on another forum there is a puck designed sending unit that is more efficient and has no moving parts. Already purchased the new replacement sending unit but was curious if anyone else has used the puck design. Also is it difficult to change the starboard tank sending unit?
Click to expand...
KUS makes these direct replacement reed switch senders https://kus-usa.com/product/sss-ssl-sender/.
I've used them on all of my boats including my current boat without any complaints. If you do a search on this forum you will find many use these level senders.
 
I know this has been discussed before somewhere but,
I need to buy a new anchor and was looking at 44 lb Delta or the rocna vulcan anyone have an anchor they would highly recommend ?
 
Mark.60 said:
I know this has been discussed before somewhere but,
I need to buy a new anchor and was looking at 44 lb Delta or the rocna vulcan anyone have an anchor they would highly recommend ?
Click to expand...
Just picked up a 44lb Rocna from Defender this spring. have only used it once but the Rocna gets great reviews. If you want to see some test results check out this guy on youtube.
 
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