Official 330 Sundancer Thread

ejlivas said:
I've been scouring this page and there is so much information here, and I'm grateful for it. That being said I recently had a compression test done on 97 330DA w/454's w/approx. 700hrs I am looking to purchase. The compression numbers are as follows:

P - 160, 160, 150, 160, 130, 155, 155, 160
S - 155, 150, 145, 135, 150, 150, 150, 150

The compression test was done cold, and the mechanic recommended a leak down test on #3 on the port side, but he didn't say anything more than that on the report and I have't been able to speak with him.

Does anyone have any insight into why a leak down test would be needed on that cylinder only? Additionally, does the variance in the numbers across all cylinders concern anyone?

Thanks
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ejlivas said:
I've been scouring this page and there is so much information here, and I'm grateful for it. That being said I recently had a compression test done on 97 330DA w/454's w/approx. 700hrs I am looking to purchase. The compression numbers are as follows:

P - 160, 160, 150, 160, 130, 155, 155, 160
S - 155, 150, 145, 135, 150, 150, 150, 150

The compression test was done cold, and the mechanic recommended a leak down test on #3 on the port side, but he didn't say anything more than that on the report and I have't been able to speak with him.

Does anyone have any insight into why a leak down test would be needed on that cylinder only? Additionally, does the variance in the numbers across all cylinders concern anyone?

Thanks
Click to expand...
 
I had my engines tested as well in the fall, I have learned to have them done at operating temp...the leak down test will determine if there is an issue with that piston...then you have some negotiating room on the overall cost of the boat.
 
Bjorn erik wang said:
Hi all
I have a 1997 330DA with water trapped inside the hull under the cabin. Resulting in wet floor in the aft cabin and water leaking in to the «floor compartment» that holds the shower sump. I would like to drain this water, but there is no access to the hull-compartments holding the water.
Anyone knows/have a drawing of the hull structure of the 330 DA? I cant find it in the owners resources om searay website.
It would be wery helpfull for me to understand the structure seeking where the water is entering/traweling inside the hull to fix the leak, and for cutting drain holes to empty the trapped water.
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I've had this issue, more than once. The drain line from the AC unit under the V berth gets clogged going to the shower sump. It over flows and fills those two compartments one by one.

An air nozzle at one in should blow it out down into the shower sump. I used a shop-vac to vacuum out the water.

Nic
 
Hey guys, has anyone had to replace a throttle or shift cable on a 95-99 330? My stbd throttle cable has developed a slight bend right at the carb (hmmm I wonder how that happened with size 13 shoes?). Hopefully I'll be able to straighten it. It works now just very stiff. Creekwood maybe? Or Saverio?
 
Salvation 330 said:
Hey guys, has anyone had to replace a throttle or shift cable on a 95-99 330? My stbd throttle cable has developed a slight bend right at the carb (hmmm I wonder how that happened with size 13 shoes?). Hopefully I'll be able to straighten it. It works now just very stiff. Creekwood maybe? Or Saverio?
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I had a similar problem, and was able to adjust the direction of the cable, and with the help of a handy zip tie, it’s been working great.
 
Trying to get to a good 2 step process to prepare my 330 DA for the boating season. After a good washing after the shrink wrap has been removed I'm considering using Meguiars M50 Cleaner wax followed by the Meguiars Flagship Premium Wax. My gel coat is in good shape so I don't want to use anything too aggressive. Has anyone used this process and if so are you happy with the results? Other success stories? I have a PC DA polisher and a cheap HP rotary. Thanks for the help.
 
Geowh said:
Trying to get to a good 2 step process to prepare my 330 DA for the boating season. After a good washing after the shrink wrap has been removed I'm considering using Meguiars M50 Cleaner wax followed by the Meguiars Flagship Premium Wax. My gel coat is in good shape so I don't want to use anything too aggressive. Has anyone used this process and if so are you happy with the results? Other success stories? I have a PC DA polisher and a cheap HP rotary. Thanks for the help.
Click to expand...
I don't think you need to use both a cleaner/wax and a wax. I use the Mequiars Flagship cleaner/wax -- one application, works good.
 
Geowh said:
Trying to get to a good 2 step process to prepare my 330 DA for the boating season. After a good washing after the shrink wrap has been removed I'm considering using Meguiars M50 Cleaner wax followed by the Meguiars Flagship Premium Wax. My gel coat is in good shape so I don't want to use anything too aggressive. Has anyone used this process and if so are you happy with the results? Other success stories? I have a PC DA polisher and a cheap HP rotary. Thanks for the help.
Click to expand...
I've used various combinations of this formula. I used a different cleaner wax & Meguiars Flagship last year & was happy.
 
Super Happy with the Smoove line of products. I've had to do a 3 step process due to heavy oxidation. But I bet you can just do the Pro-Cut 2500 and High Gloss Polymer.

Pro-Cut 1000
Pro-Cut 2500
White Cloud High Gloss Polymer

searaysmoove.jpg
 
I recently had a 98 330 Dancer surveyed. They survey found that the deck had a lot of soft areas from water intrusion. Also below the windshield is soft. All the electronics checked out and the stringers are solid. This is a well appointed 330. At least I think it is. The seller is offering the boat to me at a 55% discount do to the deck. I checked with a local boat fiberglass specialist and he said without looking at it I could be around 10K for the deck. Would you buy the boat and do the repair if you were getting it after repairs for $10k cheaper than the original asking price? I am leaning that way.
 
olds72 said:
I recently had a 98 330 Dancer surveyed. They survey found that the deck had a lot of soft areas from water intrusion. Also below the windshield is soft. All the electronics checked out and the stringers are solid. This is a well appointed 330. At least I think it is. The seller is offering the boat to me at a 55% discount do to the deck. I checked with a local boat fiberglass specialist and he said without looking at it I could be around 10K for the deck. Would you buy the boat and do the repair if you were getting it after repairs for $10k cheaper than the original asking price? I am leaning that way.
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What did the survey report say about the operation and condition of the engines, transmissions, generator and all of the other systems in the bilge/engine room? How did the sea trial go?
 
techmitch said:
What did the survey report say about the operation and condition of the engines, transmissions, generator and all of the other systems in the bilge/engine room? How did the sea trial go?
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See his other post.
 
olds72 said:
I recently had a 98 330 Dancer surveyed. They survey found that the deck had a lot of soft areas from water intrusion. Also below the windshield is soft. All the electronics checked out and the stringers are solid. This is a well appointed 330. At least I think it is. The seller is offering the boat to me at a 55% discount do to the deck. I checked with a local boat fiberglass specialist and he said without looking at it I could be around 10K for the deck. Would you buy the boat and do the repair if you were getting it after repairs for $10k cheaper than the original asking price? I am leaning that way.
Click to expand...

The 330 is not known for transom or stringer issues, but is known for rotting balsa core decks. I would get a firm quote for the work before you commit. $10K sounds low to me for what seems like a complete deck rebuild. I had the area under the windlass done and back about 4 feet down the walkways and it was the equivalent of US$5K and they did it from the top. I have no moisture issues around any deck hatches or the windshield.

What you describe is a MAJOR reconstruction from the inside and I would bet its far more than $10K, if you get a firm quote. I would guess more like $15K maybe more. You may want to keep looking for one without that level of deck rot. That is what I would do.
 
Does anyone know what type/part numbers are these foot switches on my 330 Sundancer, are still available if so where or do you know of a suitable alternative (manufacturers/part numbers). The wiring diagram in the owners manual shows that these switches supply current directly to the windlass motor and therefore the latest Lofrans foot switches are not "beefy" enough as these are intended to only operate the up/down relays.
 

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Tony Clark said:
Does anyone know what type/part numbers are these foot switches on my 330 Sundancer, are still available if so where or do you know of a suitable alternative (manufacturers/part numbers). The wiring diagram in the owners manual shows that these switches supply current directly to the windlass motor and therefore the latest Lofrans foot switches are not "beefy" enough as these are intended to only operate the up/down relays.
Click to expand...

They are available. In white and stainless in fact. Swing over to Defender Marine. They have ‘em. Flounder Pounder too I would imagine.
 
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