40 sedan bridge forum

Here’s a prototype with backrest off and cushion still on. My wife wants me to leave it this way. I’d have to build something to fill the vinyl hole against the wall. Thanks a lot Scooper! But will probably put it all back the way it was after it’s all recovered with new fabric.
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Bill,

Where did you get the blinds?
 
Bill,

Where did you get the blinds?
Some online blinds store. Don’t remember which one. I’ll check my records. Note I made a triangular cover for the forward part of the window to make the blinds work. So that may not work for some people. But we just liked the curtains so little we had to come up with something.
 
Some online blinds store. Don’t remember which one. I’ll check my records. Note I made a triangular cover for the forward part of the window to make the blinds work. So that may not work for some people. But we just liked the curtains so little we had to come up with something.

Agree with chunking the curtains! First thing the wife did on the 420DA was to ditch the curtains... Your blinds look OEM!

Bennett
 
Hi everyone, can someone tell me what is normally running off the accessory switch in the main panel? I installed 2 new speakers in the boat and they were playing great until I turned on the accessory switch and then they sounded terrible and staticky. Not sure why. Thanks, Greg
 
Hi everyone, can someone tell me what is normally running off the accessory switch in the main panel? I installed 2 new speakers in the boat and they were playing great until I turned on the accessory switch and then they sounded terrible and staticky. Not sure why. Thanks, Greg
One of the accessory switches on my AC panel powers the 24v charger for the bow thruster batteries (factory)
The other accessory switch was blank. It now powers the engine room power outlets.
 
One of the accessory switches on my AC panel powers the 24v charger for the bow thruster batteries (factory)
The other accessory switch was blank. It now powers the engine room power outlets.
I am still in the boat yard and the only thing that is running are the battery chargers. How would that cause a problem with the radio?
 
More info so maybe someone else can help.
Is this a new problem?
Does it stop when you shut off the battery charger? (Usually marked Converter/charger)
Could be something near by, not on your boat.
I'm not that well versed on RF interference.
 
I am still in the boat yard and the only thing that is running are the battery chargers. How would that cause a problem with the radio?
More info so maybe someone else can help.
Is this a new problem?
Does it stop when you shut off the battery charger? (Usually marked Converter/charger)
Could be something near by, not on your boat.
I'm not that well versed on RF interference.

Yep, most likely RF noise. First step would be to find out everything that is on that breaker, then isolate the circuit/component.
 
It could also be AC noise coming from the charger onto the ground plane. Do you have a clean ground to the unit? Have you tried a filter on it? I get noise on my stereo too, especially if something is running off the AC. Definitely a ground issue for me.
 
It could also be AC noise coming from the charger onto the ground plane. Do you have a clean ground to the unit? Have you tried a filter on it? I get noise on my stereo too, especially if something is running off the AC. Definitely a ground issue for me.
I will have to take a look at the switch and charger.
 
About had it with trying to open the port engine strainer. It’s a Groco Arg-2000. I’ve PBblastered it, wrenched on it and beat on it. It won’t budge. However, small pieces of bronze are flaking off as the hammer impacts the ears on the lid! Too bad they aren’t the crap holding it on. But I didn’t come here to whine. Well, not entirely, anyway. It looks like replacement is in the future.

The strainer has adapters that screw in on either side and to which the fresh water hoses connect. My question is, when I go to install those adapters into the new strainer do I use any sort of sealant, thread locker, anti seize or plumbers’ putty? Are there O-rings in there? Or are they tapered threads that will seal without any of that?
 
About had it with trying to open the port engine strainer. It’s a Groco Arg-2000. I’ve PBblastered it, wrenched on it and beat on it. It won’t budge. However, small pieces of bronze are flaking off as the hammer impacts the ears on the lid! Too bad they aren’t the crap holding it on. But I didn’t come here to whine. Well, not entirely, anyway. It looks like replacement is in the future.

The strainer has adapters that screw in on either side and to which the fresh water hoses connect. My question is, when I go to install those adapters into the new strainer do I use any sort of sealant, thread locker, anti seize or plumbers’ putty? Are there O-rings in there? Or are they tapered threads that will seal without any of that?

Steve,

If they are a tapered pipe thread (NPT) you would need to use some sort of plumbers putty or tape to seal the thread. They are probably NOT NPTF dryseal threads. An NPTF dryseal thread compresses the threads and after the first mating will no longer be considered dry seal thread and would need sealant. (NOT Threadlocker).

The actual size of pipe threads is misleading... a 1/4"-18 NPT tap will be closer to 3/8" in size.

I am the National Sales Manager of a tap manufacturer... threads are my business...
 
Steve,

If they are a tapered pipe thread (NPT) you would need to use some sort of plumbers putty or tape to seal the thread. They are probably NOT NPTF dryseal threads. An NPTF dryseal thread compresses the threads and after the first mating will no longer be considered dry seal thread and would need sealant. (NOT Threadlocker).

The actual size of pipe threads is misleading... a 1/4"-18 NPT tap will be closer to 3/8" in size.

I am the National Sales Manager of a tap manufacturer... threads are my business...

Fantastic. And thanks. Putty/tape it is! And... I don’t plan on taking them off again...
 
Any suggestions on how to adjust the cabin door on a 2001 400DB? The door ‘sticks’ when trying to open, it appears to be the back rollers. If I just use the latch and try to slide the door open, it won’t move, but if I lift the door slightly, it opens just fine.
 
Any suggestions on how to adjust the cabin door on a 2001 400DB? The door ‘sticks’ when trying to open, it appears to be the back rollers. If I just use the latch and try to slide the door open, it won’t move, but if I lift the door slightly, it opens just fine.
Suggest you buy new rollers and replace them. Pretty easy job. At 20 years they are past end of life. Several pictures in this thread about doing it and lists of the roller part number and supplier. At this stage they are likely just sliding on the soft aluminum track, slowly eating it away. Some of us also had to put a stainless steel overlay on the track because our tracks were too chewed up.
 
Suggest you buy new rollers and replace them. Pretty easy job. At 20 years they are past end of life. Several pictures in this thread about doing it and lists of the roller part number and supplier. At this stage they are likely just sliding on the soft aluminum track, slowly eating it away. Some of us also had to put a stainless steel overlay on the track because our tracks were too chewed up.

Thanks Bill! Are there only 2 rollers on the door or more? How difficult is it to get the door out? I probably should replace my damaged screen door (guest bent the frame) as well since it looks like I have to pull the whole thing apart.
 
Thanks Bill! Are there only 2 rollers on the door or more? How difficult is it to get the door out? I probably should replace my damaged screen door (guest bent the frame) as well since it looks like I have to pull the whole thing apart.
Yes. Just two rollers. Door is easy to get out. Remove the four screws holding the black strip at the top of the door frame. Open the door all the way and slide the black strip out to port. Then just lift up the door until it clears the track.
 
Yes. Just two rollers. Door is easy to get out. Remove the four screws holding the black strip at the top of the door frame. Open the door all the way and slide the black strip out to port. Then just lift up the door until it clears the track.

Thanks again Bill. Found the previous post with the link to roller replacements. I’ve placed an order for them. Does the bottom of the door come off to replace the rollers? It looks like it is welded on, but maybe it will be clearer once I pull out the door.

One final questions...how does the screen door come out? Do I have to remove the stainless steel threshold? Any sources to buy a new one?
 

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