Water inside drive shaft bellows

So which kit is the best to get, the quicksilver or merc? See my post #12 above.
Also, is there any way to replace the U joint bellows without removing the bell housing? The exhaust tube can be removed without removing the bell housing, wondering if that would allow access to the u joint bellows.
Take the bell housing off. It allows for proper surface cleaning before applying the adhesive, easy oil hose replacement, and the tool is only a few $$
 
Like mentioned above, Quicksilver is just the consumer label on Mercury OEM parts. You only see Mercury labeled parts from a true dealer, you see Quicksilver in places like Walmart and West Marine - same exact parts. Aftermarket parts like Sierra are in general pretty good and a little cheaper than OEM Quicksilver/Mercury. I've used lots of Sierra parts over the years with no issue, my bellows, shift cable and trim senders are Sierra.

Don't even try to change the bellows without removing the bellhousing. Just remove it, gives you room to feed the new trim sender wires and replace the gear lube hose. It really is not hard to remove, the hinge pins are tight, but mine came loose without too much trouble. Regarding the gear lube hose, be very careful removing it from the plastic fitting that passes it through the transom assembly. The plastic fitting breaks very easily and is a PIA the replace. The part is only @ $20, but access from inside the boat to replace it can be tough. Trust me, I know this from experience.

If you plan to do this job, spend some time researching it - there are lots of videos and other instructions on-line. It is absolutely a DIY job, but it is a little tough, not technical, just dirty, heavy parts that seem to go together like a puzzle. Buy the tools, at least the hingpin removal took, bellows sleeve install tool, shift cable removal tool and the alignment tool - about $100. Try to do these with makeshift tools and you are likely to tear up something. Also, either buy, borrow or build a drive stand and the tools to remove the BravoIII props. I did mine totally by myself and it took a weekend. I spent $425 on tools and the parts vs the $1200 and $1500 quotes I got from a shop - I have had zero issues. That was 5yrs ago, my first set of bellows lasted 15yrs, but boat is in freshwater and dry stored indoors. My shift cable bellows started leaking, that is what prompted the whole job. In the first picture, at 1:00, that screw is where I broke the gear lube fitting and 4:00 where the string is, that is where the shift cable goes through.

Realize mine is an Alpha I, but the job is basically the same.

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Have done a bunch of Bravo's. What Bill says but you won't need the bellows expander like an alpha and the shift cable tool is nothing more than a 7/16 deep socket. The hinge pins are red loctited on install at 150 lbs of torque so put the small torch to that area first before you tear the threads out of the bell housing.
 
Coz,

Quicksilver "IS" Mercury. The ONLY difference is the packaging. Let me explain why. Only an Mercury authorized dealer can have the name "Mercury" listed on the packaging. All NON Merc dealers will have Quicksilver labels on the packaging. Mercury was smart to do this in that they wanted to expand selling their products to many more places.

If you don't believe me, call Mercury direct at 920-929-5200. They will ALSO be able to answer your question on how much pressure for a pressure test. Great support! Have you engine serial # on hand!!!

That said, don't confuse Quicksilver with brands like Sierra. Sierra is NOT an OEM Mercury product.

Re the u joint bellows. Very challenging to replace without removing the bell housing. Especially when trying to glue it on and holding it in place.
Absolutely worth taking the bell housing off. You tube is a good source to see the process.

Did you look at the links in my post #12? Clearly 2 different items. Unless the merc pic is just an old pic.
 
I've researched the job and watched a few videos. I will definitely be doing the job. Already have the drive off. Few things don't make sense, just cause I haven't done it before. Like, why do I have to remove the shift cable? Seems like after you take the nuts off the front/back of bell housing it would pull through.
 
Lower shift cable is a maintenance item and this would be the time to replace it. You would have to get the cable end thru the small hole in bellows which could be difficult
 
Getting back to the oil line, use a BRAND NEW utility knife blade and slice the oil hose lengthwise along the transom fitting. Once you cut through the hose, it’ll slide off the fitting without breaking it.
 
Getting back to the oil line, use a BRAND NEW utility knife blade and slice the oil hose lengthwise along the transom fitting. Once you cut through the hose, it’ll slide off the fitting without breaking it.

Yep, I realized that about 30sec too late!
 
Reading my new service manual about 1.5” thick!
Says the gimbal bearing and carrier are a matched set and must be replaced as an assembly and the tolerance ring must be replaced too.

Aren’t those basically all one piece that come out and go in together?

I’m not replacing the bearing but just curious.
 
Reading my new service manual about 1.5” thick!
Says the gimbal bearing and carrier are a matched set and must be replaced as an assembly and the tolerance ring must be replaced too.

Aren’t those basically all one piece that come out and go in together?

I’m not replacing the bearing but just curious.


Yes they are a matched set and comes altogether ready for install as in the picture of my previous posting on this. The gimbal bearing is the "easiest of all" to replace for what you are doing as you only need to take the drive off, which you already have. Most (if not all) shops will replace it as part of a bellows service. If you found water in the bellows, its worth the 90 bucks on a new bearing rather than a haul out in the middle of summer when you start hearing a growling sound! Been there done that twice!!!

With the proper tools, it's a 20 min job! Don't waste your time with borrowing a puller from autozone. It's a breeze with the right puller.

Note: You need the bell housing installed if you use the correct puller as it rests on it and uses it for leverage
 
Yes they are a matched set and comes altogether ready for install as in the picture of my previous posting on this. The gimbal bearing is the "easiest of all" to replace for what you are doing as you only need to take the drive off, which you already have. Most (if not all) shops will replace it as part of a bellows service. If you found water in the bellows, its worth the 90 bucks on a new bearing rather than a haul out in the middle of summer when you start hearing a growling sound! Been there done that twice!!!

With the proper tools, it's a 20 min job! Don't waste your time with borrowing a puller from autozone. It's a breeze with the right puller.

Note: You need the bell housing installed if you use the correct puller as it rests on it and uses it for leverage

Been looking at pullers and they're all over the map price and style. Can you recommend one?
 
Ya, go to autozone and borrow their axle bearing puller kit and their slide hammer. This will work in 90% of the jobs. Cost you nothing
 

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