Trying to winterize for the first time.

2006 Sea Ray 200 Select with 4.3 MPI.
WalMart had the Mercruiser Oil and gear Lube. I need Oil filter, Fuel Filter and a blue plug since I twisted one off trying to get it out. Good news all the water drained out. I've rigged a feed tub from the farm with a sump and hose to the muffs that will let me pump RV antifreeze into it.

I found a kit on ebay that
Contains:
Water Separating Fuel Filter 35-802893T
Oil Filter 35-866340K012-4-C
Marine Grease 92-802859A1
1 Gallon SAE 25W-40 Marine Engine Oil 92-8M0078628
1 Quart SAE 25W-40 Marine Engine Oil 92-8M0078627
1 Quart High Performance Gear Lube 92-858064K012
Sterndrive Oil Drain Washers 12-191833

Gear Lube Fill Pump

The numbers don't match up on my quicksilver filters. I know Merc has changed numbers on the filters 3 times.

Not sure what the Marine Grease is for.

Do I fog or not fog the MPI? I only found a lower blue drain plug, the turn valve to drain it and a vent plug at the top. DO I have More? At what temp does should my thermostat open?

Any help or info is greatly appreciated.

Iirc 5 blue plugs to remove on the 4.3. Don’t spray fog a MPI, either run on remote tank with cocktail of gas/ stabilizer/ 2stroke or spin off canister filter dump the gas and refill with a strong 2 stoke gas mix. 4.3 is easy to pour antifreeze into all the lines that collect on top of block to fill the system. Just need to see if you have the high mount power steering cooler. YouTube videos are plentiful, watch as many as you can find to see the basics. Expensive mistake if not done correctly.

paulswagelock said:

Iirc 5 blue plugs to remove on the 4.3. Don’t spray fog a MPI, either run on remote tank with cocktail of gas/ stabilizer/ 2stroke or spin off canister filter dump the gas and refill with a strong 2 stoke gas mix. 4.3 is easy to pour antifreeze into all the lines that collect on top of block to fill the system. Just need to see if you have the high mount power steering cooler. YouTube videos are plentiful, watch as many as you can find to see the basics. Expensive mistake if not done correctly.

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Thank you. I started out on Youtube. but I can't find the right one for my motor. lots of carb videos or bravo, etc. I really was not prepared with all my stuff and thought I could just pick it up anywhere. Should I go with Quicksilver filters? or is there a better one? I'm looking for the other blue plugs and can't find them yet. When you say strong 2 stroke mix? like 50:1?

mojocowboy said:

Thank you. I started out on Youtube. but I can't find the right one for my motor. lots of carb videos or bravo, etc. I really was not prepared with all my stuff and thought I could just pick it up anywhere. Should I go with Quicksilver filters? or is there a better one? I'm looking for the other blue plugs and can't find them yet. When you say strong 2 stroke mix? like 50:1?

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The most important thing is to get all the water out, not doing that correctly will be catastrophic. I did a quick google search and found some ok videos on the 4.3 draining and filling with AF. Important thing is you find all the drains, open them and make sure they are clear of debris. If you do that correctly, the antifreeze is just extra protection by flushing out any last water remnants.
For Merc IO engines I have always used high quality car filters available locally. Nothing special about that 4.3 block that requires anything different for filters. Need to know your serial number and exact recommended filter then it is easy to cross over. WIX or Napa gold series will be just fine. For a 2006, Mercs 25w40 oil is great, but if you want to buy now, Rotella T4/T5/T6 15w40 will be more than fine. Only use Merc high performance lower unit oil, blueish green in color, don’t use anything else. As for the broken plug, local Merc dealer or online is only choice. AF- needs to be propylene glycol not alcohol based, read the labels. If it mentions flammable, wrong stuff. Fogging is really overrated if only putting it away for 4 months or so, but about a shot glass worth in the spin on filter then fill with gas and put back on. Run on muffs for 4-5 minutes and you are fogged.
So warm on muffs for 5-10 minutes, then change oil and lower unit oil. Fill filter with 2 stroke as discussed and run on muffs again. Let her cool down, then go find all the drains. Once drained, pour AF into the 4 (off memory) on top center of motor, filling the block until it comes out of the collector, then pouring into the others until pure pink comes out exhaust in prop and inlet holes in lower unit. That should take 4 gallons. If you have power steering cooler, cool fuel 3, need to make sure they are drained and find the hose to them and pour in AF.
I would only use the pump AF into muffs and run engine method if you are 100% certain the block is drained, if not the main cooling jacket will stay full of water and the AF will just bypass the block and go out the exhaust since you will not know if the tstat opened.

He's probably has the single point drain system which can be problematic by design. Be very careful if so.
The block drains can plug up and not release all the water

scoflaw said:

He's probably has the single point drain system which can be problematic by design. Be very careful if so.
The block drains can plug up and not release all the water

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I do have the single point drain, I took the vent out and the bottom blue plug where the red hose for the SPD come out. Headed down to look for the others in a second. I assume that if I run some weed eater line in them it would be safe enough to check for debris?.

NOTE: The air filter was horrible. Like the last few times it was serviced they never cleaned or replaced the Air Filter. I took it off and blew it out with air. then I used my K&N cleaner on it and then rinsed it with water. Super dirty and now super clean. Should I oil it? I know that K&N oil will mess with some sensors. It really looks like the one in my truck. Thanks again.

Lazy Days and Espos4 know much more about this system than I do. If it were my boat, I'd rip all that crap off it and go old school. Try to get their attention

I always removed the hoses at the single/multipoint drains to verify they were clear. I am not trusting with items that could cost a block.

I have 5.0L MPI with single point drain. Note that despite the name there are two additional drain plugs on the raw seawater pump, as well as one on the Cool Fuel Module if you have the new version with new cooling connections. I forgot about my raw seawater pump last year, and it luckily survived.

paulswagelock said:

I always removed the hoses at the single/multipoint drains to verify they were clear. I am not trusting with items that could cost a block.

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I didn't remove hoses. but after I drained the water I did pump antifreeze through the engine and fogged it.

That’s still no guarantee that the water drained from the block.

If you are in fresh water and don’t take in and mud or silt during the season, you may be ok.

I’m in shallow salt water (cause that’s where the clams are) and have to do this each fall to clear out the block and manifolds.

Take a look at this thread:
http://clubsearay.com/index.php?thr...8-block-drains-240sd-mpi.101319/#post-1171223

If you stick an air compressor blower nozzle into the drain plug hole, you can hear air circulating all throughout the engine, and verify that none of the draining functions are plugged.

Ok Thanks guys I appreciate the input...I hope I got it if not then I'll find out in the spring...lol