Fridge rust issue

JPGator

Active Member
Apr 25, 2019
495
Treasure Coast
Boat Info
2008 Sundancer 40
Engines
Cummins QSB 5.9 425HO
As you can see from the pics I have rust around the metal frame. What have y’all done to remedy this. The fridge works great so replacing is not the goal at the moment.
 

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As you can see from the pics I have rust around the metal frame. What have y’all done to remedy this. The fridge works great so replacing is not the goal at the moment.
Black gloss rustoleum worked well for me. Did it when i bought the boat in 2010 and rust has not reappeared. Did typical surface prep as described in paint instructions. Brushed not sprayed.
 
This has been on my list since I bought the boat last spring, need to make it happen this winter for sure.
 
Thanks All. I hit home depot tomorrow and start working on it.
what will you do with the rust, sandpaper or wire brush?

post pics of a rust neutralizer primer, if you get some?
just curious if thats something i can get from HD
 
As you can see from the pics I have rust around the metal frame. What have y’all done to remedy this. The fridge works great so replacing is not the goal at the moment.

Keep in mind that neutralizing, priming and paining what you see is just takes care of what you see. If you can try getting the neutralizing agent on the back side of the rusted pieces and parts.
 
what will you do with the rust, sandpaper or wire brush?

post pics of a rust neutralizer primer, if you get some?
just curious if thats something i can get from HD
Home Depot sells a rust neutralizer so I’ll probably get that. My rust is bad in some areas so I’ll probably use both. I have to see how deep it gets. Hopefully not to bad. I’ll try and remember to take lots of pics. Keep you posted.
 
So far...

scraped, sanded and sprayed. Instructions are a tiny misleading and you expect everything to turn black but it doesn’t, only the heavily rusted areas. If you scrape or sand down to original metal and just gets a little darker.
Two coats done and one more I. 24 hours.
 

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JP Gator
please post a pic of the cans of products you are using if you get a chance...
brush or spray?

TIA

So far...

scraped, sanded and sprayed. Instructions are a tiny misleading and you expect everything to turn black but it doesn’t, only the heavily rusted areas. If you scrape or sand down to original metal and just gets a little darker.
Two coats done and one more I. 24 hours.
 
So I had to buy the spray from Lowe’s, Home Depot was out. Also, bought some wire brushes and 50 grit sandpaper. It’s all easy to get off except the part by the door and door hinges. Brushes work well there just use the thin ones.
Not sure if I’m going to paint or leave as is. Painting needs to be oil based according to the instructions.

I probably could have taken the door off but I just didn’t feel like it and I could reach all the little spots I needed.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Warner-Carbon-Wire-Fine-Wire-Brush/1000014304

https://www.lowes.com/pd/LOCTITE-Ru...L3hGzHZY7L9DDXB0iPsaApVrEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
 

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Rust neutralizers - Use Ospho or Etch-N-Prep from HD paint dept. both are phosphoric acid which converts iron oxide (rust) to iron phosphate. Its available at Amazon.

Here is from their website:
RUSTED METALS - OSPHO is a rust-inhibiting coating - NOT A PAINT You do not have to remove tight rust. Merely remove loose paint and rust scale, dirt, oil, grease and other accumulations with a wire brush or pressure washer and let dry - apply a thin coat of OSPHO as it comes pre-diluted in the container. Let dry overnight for a minimum of 24 hours, then apply whatever paint. Longer dry times may occur depending on temperature, humidity and over-application of product. OSPHO has the consistency of water and treats up to 600 square feet per gallon. When applied to rusted surfaces, OSPHO causes iron oxide (rust) to chemically change to iron phosphate - an inert, hard substance that turns the metal black. Where rust is exceedingly heavy, two coats of OSPHO may be necessary to thoroughly penetrate and blacken the surface to be painted. A dry, powdery, grayish-white surface usually develops when cured. Brush off any loose powder and wipe down with Mineral Spirits before painting.
 

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