Official 400EC thread

What a PITA! I have a water leak under my starboard engine that I thought was the hot water heater. Well the hot water heater was leaking and has been replaced. (Which by the way can be done with the motor in the boat, the outboard manifold and riser needed to be removed from the starboard engine and the circulating pump removed from the front of the engine, which gave enough clearance to get the old unit out and the new unit in place.)
The leak still persisted after the replacement of the hot water heater. Further investigation found a leak in the water lines running under the engine from either the raw water pump intake or discharge line. I removed both lines from the boat to inspect them because it is impossible to see anything under the motor or on the outboard side of the motor. This is where the PITA comes in, the room to get even your hand in there to loosen a clamp is ridiculous. I have the hatch over the motor out after moving the helm seat out of the way (as it were). But still could not get a hand passed the manifold to access the back of the raw water pump.I had to lie on my side in front of the motor and with one hand reach the clamps on the hoses. Then I find out there is a metal bracket holding the hose between the pump and the transmission oil cooler that is BOLTED to the flywheel cover.I needed 7/16
[SUP]th[/SUP] inch wrench that I had to loosen a ¼ of a turn at a time BLIND. Oh did I leave out that the manifolds were still hot from running the engine to locate the leak in the first place!
With the hoses out, I am now able to speculate I have two possible causes of the leak: 1. The raw water intake hose runs under the engine with the wire-reinforced hose up till a plastic hose barb connects to a molded hose that seems to be used to allow the molded hose to reach the inlet side of the pump which is partially blocked by the motor mount. The leak MAY have been coming from the hose barb connection; 2. When I went to loosen the clamp on the transmission oil cooler end of the hose (also molded) that runs from the discharge side of the raw water pump to the transmission oil cooler, the clamp fell off into my hand and into the bilge in pieces.I suspect this was the source of my leak. The water was likely running down the hose and dripping off of the hose at that bracket I mentioned before into the bilge and pooling under the motor.
So, my plan is to: replace the molded hose, which is thankfully currently available (and I have already bought the one the supplier had in stock and ordered a second one for the port motor, just in case), between the discharge of the raw water pump and the transmission oil cooler. I am not sure if I will be putting that bracket back on the hose, but will see what my tolerance level is by then. The fact the motor will be cold should help though; and try to run the wire reinforced hose directly to the water pump and do away with the hose barb and molded hose on the intake side of the pump. My concern is the clearance around the motor mount.
Anyone tackle this task already?Anything I missed or that someone else found I should investigate while in this area?
I also plan to run some Barnacle Buster through the salt water side of the system while I have the hoses apart just to clean out the coolers and heat exchanger.
Post #153 on here..
Harold R/R his water heater by removing exhaust and water circulating pump. So, it’s possible. PITA but, possible.
Zero experience on the dancers.
Thanks!!!
 
You may be able to remove the outside of that ‘furniture piece’ by sliding the entire thing towards the center. Disconnect water, drain, 110v power, and pull the two pins. Its a heavy piece, and depending on how the back of the seat is secured to the floor (I have a raised metal plate that catches the rear lip) you may have to lift it up as you go over that piece. Helps to remove everything from the smaller rear seat - stuff gets caught as you drag. The ice maker side does not really have any plastic slides on it - so it needs more effort to move.

Back to the port side piece - I have not done it, but it looks like there is a set in piece of plywood screwed in place. If you can remove that, it might get you to the faucet. Otherwise pull the icemaker - at this point your half way there. Careful on the water line for the ice maker when disconnecting, reconnecting, and pushing the ice maker back in. If you damage/break the pex-to-ice maker line, I think you’ll have issues finding replacement parts if you have the older pex pieces.

Also mark which hose is water versus drain - They have the same fittings if I recall.

Good luck!
Uggh - why is it never easy . . . Sounds like a winter project - its been this way all summer, it can wait another month or so.
 
Uggh - why is it never easy . . . Sounds like a winter project - its been this way all summer, it can wait another month or so.

It is not too bad. I have replaced the faucet on the cockpit sink both ways: removing the icemaker and crawling into the space and using a sink wrench to tighten the fitting; and by moving the seat and removing the plywood panel. Removing the panel gives better access, with less cursing :D, then trying to reach it from underneath.
I have it to the point where I can move the whole seat in a few minutes. As was said, take everything out from under the small seat; disconnect the power cord for the icemaker; take off the water and waste lines from the fittings; pull the two pins and the seat can be pulled aft. Then lift the seat and slide it to the starboard side, which will give you access to the panel on the port side of the seat assembly. (I moved the seat to pull the engine hatch a couple of weeks ago to add a holding tank vent filter and do an oil change while it was easier to reach the oil filter :))
 
Thanks!!!

Glad this can help you. By the way, this was one of the jobs I actually wrote a check for instead of doing myself. I would likely tackle it myself now, but this was early on in my ownership of this boat.
 
Great lead. Thanks. My cabin door is one messed up piece of work. If I can get the rollers just to get (and stay) in the track and get a secure lock on there, I'll be set.

The new lock was delivered late yesterday, and hopefully I'll get it installed today!

Thanks again for the info, and link!!

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The new lock was delivered late yesterday, and hopefully I'll get it installed today!

Thanks again for the info, and link!!

7262B49F_5533_4230_B736_522B106BDE93_1_201_a.jpeg
I hate to rain on your parade, but I hope that lockset can be reversed. If I am picturing it correctly, the interior lock mechanism needs to be on the other side, no?
 
.. the interior lock mechanism needs to be on the other side, no?

Actually no. The unit fits on either side of the door. The pic is with the lock open. The locking lever exists on both sides of that flat bar. Turning the lock will cause the locking lever you see to go into the lock, and the other locking lever to appear on the other side. Once installed, if you can see the locking lever, then the door is unlocked. Bit unusual yes, but works great.
 
Actually no. The unit fits on either side of the door. The pic is with the lock open. The locking lever exists on both sides of that flat bar. Turning the lock will cause the locking lever you see to go into the lock, and the other locking lever to appear on the other side. Once installed, if you can see the locking lever, then the door is unlocked. Bit unusual yes, but works great.

Thanks for your reply. Have you installed your lock yet, any pictures?
 
Added a 10'X17' sun shade to my boatslip today trying to keep some of the morning sun off the transom. Heck with any luck it might even keep some of the rain at bay during the winter.

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Welcome to the 400EC Club!! They are great boats! I have had my 1994 400EC for 7 years and still love her.

I just went through the 'fix' of replacing the factory door slides with a roller setup someone else posted on the Facebook 400 Express group.

First, removing the door is fairly simple. There are two allen head screws on each corner of the door that go into the slide assemblies. Removing all 8 screws will allow you to lift the door up and off of the frame. Be careful, as the door is large and cumbersome, but it is not too heavy.

Unless, they are bent or otherwise damaged, the tracks should be ok. The roller assembly you see below work in the existing tracks. Remove the OEM slides (I had to pry the upper track slides up to get them out of the track (breaking one in the process)) by sliding them to the starboard side out of the end of the track.

The new roller assemblies, which consist of 5/8" shower door rollers, 10x24 by 1" machine screws with lock nuts attached to a generic prepackaged 5/8" metal brace that I drilled the middle hole (ignore the finish washer :) - was holding it there for something else), slide into the track. Note, I ended up not using the middle lock nut on the upper track and replaced it with a regular nut on the lower track for spacing issues. I am also awaiting delivery of 19 MM and 3/4" rollers to give them a try on the lower track as the 5/8" rollers are binding a little in the track.


View attachment 91840

Each roller assembly lines up with one of the two original holes on each corner of the door. I used the outer hole on each corner. To get a 3/8" deep socket over the nut, I had to grind the hole a bit larger using a grinding bit. NOTE, check the mounting surface of the door frame where the slide assemblies attached. The welds on one of the pieces of aluminum used to hold the door to the slide assembly broke and was loose in the track. It would slide to the side making an opening larger than the washer I was using. (sorry no pictures of this right now). I would suggest adding a fender washer on the inside of the door frame and as large of a washer as you can get into the outside of the door frame as well.

Even though it was binding a bit and I am tweaking the design, the door has never moved as smoothly!! I can open and close it with one finger and the lock mechanism still lined up!! WIN, WIN. Best of all, the Admiral is HAPPY! ;)

Well, I am pleased to report that I made some of these brackets (with a few modifications) and they work great. Thanks to all for the help. I used slightly longer screws so that the project thru the access holes in the door frame and put a fender wasther on and then the nylock nut and they (at least the bottom ones) are fine. The 3/4" rollers worked in the lower track, but the 7/8" did not. Also, I found that the the top port side slider was barely salvageable, though considerably shorter than originally, and the top s/b side slider was essentially intact. So, I haven't worked on the replacing the top slides with the roller wheels, But the important part is that now the Admiral is happy.

ON ANOTHER NOTE: A while back there was a post about how to remove the seating units and a suggestion was made that someone post a video of that process. I have some pictures (no video) and notes on it that I'd like to post if anyone is interested. Is a Photobucket-type app still needed to post pictures?
 
Yesterday I installed the Lockey lock. Installation was straight forward, and the new lock works great.

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Install looks great. Makes me want to consider upgrading.

How difficult was it to cut the hole? I assume there was a template?
 
Install looks great. Makes me want to consider upgrading.

How difficult was it to cut the hole? I assume there was a template?

Thanks! Cutting the slot was a challenge, I don't remember there being a template for the slot. We used a hand drill, and a Dremel tool with a few different attachments. The new lock works fantastic!!
 
Just happened to notice that the port side seat in the cockpit overhangs the fiberglass base. The starboard side seems almost flush, or maybe just shy. Does everyone elses port side seat overhang? Also - has anyone come up with a good way to help save/protect the vinyl corners of these seats? Seems like an easy and convenient place for hands to ends up all the time - wear/tear/dirt seems to be taking their toll. Would almost be nice if there was a grab rail that came up from the fiberglass base.
 
Just happened to notice that the port side seat in the cockpit overhangs the fiberglass base. The starboard side seems almost flush, or maybe just shy. Does everyone elses port side seat overhang? Also - has anyone come up with a good way to help save/protect the vinyl corners of these seats? Seems like an easy and convenient place for hands to ends up all the time - wear/tear/dirt seems to be taking their toll. Would almost be nice if there was a grab rail that came up from the fiberglass base.

I think both of mine overhang a bit, port side more than the stbd, but both overhang.

1994 Sea Ray 400 - Starboard Quarter.jpg
1994 Sea Ray 400 - Stern.jpg


Pictures are from when I first boat the boat in 2013, but they show the overhang of each seat. (This is what I have at work)
 
Looks like mine is the same.

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Is everyone's helm seat elevated about 3" higher than the port seat?

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