Lift off Trailer and Proper Placement of Brownell Stands

Tried posting on Mid-90s Sundancer thread and got zero response so trying here now. I Just bought a used 1997 270SE. It needs work including bottom paint and real good compound rubout and wax (ill send pics once I start the process on the Mid-90's thread not here). Its in my garage on a trailer (EZ Loader tandem 2006 with disc's on both axles) that also needs some work. Over the winter here in the NW I will do the bottom paint (pettit hydrocoat which other threads have indicated is stock) and take the trailer in to be addressed by qualified tech (maybe adding electric over hydraulic brakes jettisoning the Surge if I can). Here is my question - Its about blocking/stand placement. I plan to use several Brownell stands. Two at the stern, two keel stands, and two near the forward strap lift location. Some other treads indicate the forward lift location but that's not actually where the stringer seems to be. Tapping the sides indicates a denser thud about 18 inches? forward of the lift location but still with enough outer Chine for the BL3. I am sure that location is based on overall weight distribution and not the stringer location. Does it matter? I plan to lift the stern off the trailer with the Brownell Stands (MB2) with cushioned tops (these are 20K capacity and way more than needed). I have enough room to slide them under the transom and staying off the trailer. For the forward points, I bought two Brownell BL3 boat jacks to lift forward location off trailer while I pull the trailer out from under and then will place two keel stands (one forward of engines under fuel tank on the keel and one about 10 feet forward of that) as well as set two additional brownell stands (SB3) under the chines near that forward lift location and lower the pressure off the BL3 jacks (likely will still leave this in place for extra safety). Of course the other stands will be chained as well. Garage is concrete floor (steel reinforced 8 inch think so I am sure it can take the weight. Any comments and photos of other set ups would be appreciated. I just don't know if its a worry about where the 12"x12" brownell pads are placed relative to the (longitudinal) chines and internal stringers.

My boat is marked where it should be lifted from. Here's a pic of it both on the stands and lifted. My understanding is that a majority of the weight is on the keel stands and that the side ones are just to keep it upright.
I would not try to support the full weight of the boat on the side stands further forward then the engine. When I watched the guy at the boatyard put my boat on the trailer, he set the boat down on the trailer. This pinches the rear strap. He removed the front strap, lowered the hitch as low as it would go raising the rear. He placed stands as far back as possible, lifted the front of the trailer so it rested the rear on the stands, removed the rear strap, lowered the front of the trailer so it lifted the rear of the boat, removed the rear stands.
I could see this process working in reverse as well.

Appears that your plan is sound.

BTW the 270 SE was produced in 1998 and 1999 (according to Sea Ray archives). I had a 99'

Thanks for the photos. They are helpful. I see they used three Keel stands instead of what I was thinking for 2. One of the keel stands is at the transom (meaning 6 inches in from the actual vertical transom surface) where the other two flat top stands are as well. That I will use. good idea. I know the "SE" reference is for 98 and 99. However I reference SE for my 97 because its the narrow beam. Its easier noting it as SE to avoid some thinking it is a 9'2" beam when its the 8'9". Can anyone tell me how the stringers are set up on these boats? I am wondering if stringers are just longitudinal other than the keel so I don't need to worry about where I place the BL3 lift pads other than under the outer Chine. THe BL3 is a manual hydraulic lift that I will use to lift the boat off the trailer. See this video for example how they are used: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=znKqOQuY1nM Where they place the pads to lift this boat I am thinking should consider internal strength/reinforced location other than just under the chine like they have. Will only be used for holding up no more than say 20 minutes so really not too concerned, just want the best location for the temporary lift. For the stern, I will use the lower the trailer tongue method that Hawk mentioned above: Lower trailer tongue, set the stands under the transom, raise the trailer tongue back up so stern rests on the stands.

89P270, welcome to CSR and congrats on the new 270. This is going to be a nice winter project for you.

What part of the PNW are you in, and where will you be boating?

Garage is Monroe, I will travel back and forth to the Everett Boat Ramp and anywhere throughout the sound. That is until the salt water damage to the trailer becomes unbearable. Then I will go to Edmonds and have it lifted in the water. Not sure if Port of Everett or surrounding businesses like Bayshore will lift in for me off trailer. I specifically bought a trailerable size so I can work on myself at home. At least those parts I can tackle. After the Bottom paint I will need to address soft spot in foredeck next to rearmost hatch where prior owner didn't reseal the hatch at allowed water intrusion to penetrate creating a soft spot. For that I will utilize either a epoxy injection or more likely Injectadeck to strengthen and then reseal both hatches. Hatch seals are mine one gripe with Searays. I had to reseal both on my Pachanga at year 8. Seals should last longer than that. So, several winter projects to keep me busy. I'll post progress and Photos on the Mid-90's 270 Thread as I move through this process.

89P270 said:

I know the "SE" reference is for 98 and 99. However I reference SE for my 97 because its the narrow beam. Its easier noting it as SE to avoid some thinking it is a 9'2" beam when its the 8'9".

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Welcome aboard, and congratulations on your purchase. Good luck in getting all the projects done you want to do, I was there about 10 years ago in exactly the same boat.

There is no need to refer to your boat incorrectly, it is confusing to those that know and to those that don’t it means nothing. Your boat is a 270 Sundancer and that boat has an 8’6” beam. Sea Ray did continue to offer the hull of your boat as an SE model in 98 and 99 along with a 270 Sundancer that had been re-engineered. You can review the details of all this in the first post of the mid 90s 270 Sundancer thread.

When I did similar projects to what you were engaging in we put very similar jacks in the positions that were marked for sling on the boat. We did not block the keel as we were working and the jacks provided plenty of support that we used.

Storing a boat outside on jackstands is a completely different animal, especially when leaving it for the winter without someone watching it constantly. I would think in your shop you will be watching it plenty.

Good luck with your projects.

This will be the last post on this thread. I will take the remainder over to the Mid-90's 270 thread. Thanks for the responses guys. Appreciate the photos. Here's my garage and the boat where I will do the work this winter.

Thats

89P270 said:

This will be the last post on this thread. I will take the remainder over to the Mid-90's 270 thread. Thanks for the responses guys. Appreciate the photos. Here's my garage and the boat where I will do the work this winter. View attachment 92076

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That’s a sweet garage. I wish I had that much space.

Thanks! Its nice but you have to fill it up (3,300 sq feet). Prior owner was a metal fabricator and he built that sweet Gantry system overhead (one horizontal beam at 2K capacity and two swing arms 500# capacity). However, the PITA is fulling it up (meaning $$ - The Sundacer takes a bunch of room up though!). I have 3 double bays like this. Middle is office and storage and east side is wood working. I had no real wood working tools when we moved in now I have unisaw and a bunch of other toys like old school shaper table, jointer, etc.