MattB92
Active Member
Sorry for the confusion, maybe it wasn't clear in my first post. All of my Grey water goes to my black water holding tank...
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You still have a sump box? What is the point of that? So with that negative pressure, you don't have any water remaining in the box?
We just pump the waste out of our holding tank overboard.
Relax, I'm just kidding again! It just means we have more regular pump-outs... tank fills up pretty quickly washing dishes etc.
The sump box has a float switch. I believe the new Whale sump box has a volume adjustable switch. Think of it as a mini holding tank. The gulper pump can run dry without causing damage, and is self priming, but having a minimum amount of water allows the low flow A/C condensate to build up. When not showering the pump goes off maybe once or twice a night. We have a real shower that gets used regularly (used this am actually) and the system works great. I did have to rebuild the pump this spring ($32 for a rebuild kit and about 30 minutes) and performance improved dramatically.
There are no traps in our system and we’ve never experienced any clogs so I don’t think you’ll have any issues in that regard. Although I would plumb the galley sink direct to over the side if given the choice. All our sinks exit via through hulls (head sink shares through hull with the sump box).
I would add thru hulls for both sinks leave the sump as is connected to shower and don’t touch it since you don’t use it any way.
I see what you're saying, now. Yes, I thought you meant you were just going to put the Gulper into the bilge and let everything first drain into the bilge.
One thing to note... if you re-plumb the sinks directly overboard, make sure there's enough height/fall/drop/whatever so that you can install an upward loop at the thru-hull and still have enough drop left for gravity to help. Because there's no vent, these things don't drain very fast to begin with. The purpose of the upward loop is to prevent splashing water (while you're running) from coming into the boat. It doesn't happen all the time, but it could, depending on exact placement, hull shape, running conditions, etc.
Yup - just get the parts based on the size hose you have. That's the easiest way to do it. Although, you may find it listed in your parts manual (on SR's site, if you don't have it). I'm going to guess either 5/8" or 3/4".Late reply, but thanks for the advice Lazy! I am going to tackle this project and install 2 new through-hulls when they lift my boat in a few weeks here. Is there a standard size of through-hull I should be going with for sinks? Or do I need to check my hose sizes and buy my parts based off of that size?
Do this: Run a hose off the black fitting to a 5-gallon bucket INSIDE the boat. Basically, immitate what would be happening if you connected to a new thru-hull. NOTE: You MUST terminate this "immitator" hose at the exact same level as where it would be connected to the thru-hull. If you use a longer hose and let it dangle down into the bucket, it won't be an accurate comparison..
MATT... I honestly dont know if the P-trap would work as well. I think, in theory, anyways, it would not. There's nothing to keep the water from coming all the way in to the P-trap. Besides, you don't need a P-trap on a boat - you're not trying to prevent sewer gasses from coming back up. For your purpose, though, it may be one of those "six of one, half dozen of the other" things.Matt** that's ok tho lol. Ok that's a good idea to imitate it.. I feel like it will drain slow, but only one way to find out I guess. Thanks for the tip.
Do I still need the upward loop at the fitting? Is the P-trap loop not sufficient enough near the drain to prevent water from splashing in?