500/520 DB official thread

Nice.... Thanks Jeremy. It looks like a direct replacement with no modifications needed?
Yes, I think I trimmed maybe an 1/8” off the corners of the face it mounts on. It was basically and exact fit.
 
We Painted our Anchor chain with bright yellow paint every ten feet. The ten foot intervals make it easy to figure out how much scope we are letting out.
 
When I marked my chain, I started with a different thought process: My pulpit is ~4 ft above the waterline; with a 3'4" draft, I'm never going to anchor intentionally in less than 5 feet of water. So that's 9 feet....lets just make it 10 feet so the math is easy. With a minimum scope of 5:1, I put my first mark at 50'. I then mark every 25'.

Jaybeaux
 
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Interesting. I assumed I would replace the pump in the OEM location under the helm.
Replacing the Autopilot is on my list of wants... last weekend the Head unit started to give an error message “Drivestop”

Replacement may be sooner than expected.
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Current situation...
 
Engine room is looking good Tom!

Thanks for the in site.
The little black box on the wall in front of the engines is the Garmin CCU. One wire goes to the Smart Pump and the other is to the helm for the alarm and shadow drive. On the rudder tiller is the Garmin rudder position sensor and that wire also goes to the Smart Pump. Then there is a NMEA 2000 drop cable that connects to the smart pump.
 
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What to do with the OEM DVD pockets?

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If you were to replace the Bose audio system what would you consider?
My Bose remote controller is starting to act up so probably time to look towards a replacement. At home I have a Yamaha RX-V685 A/V amp with Definitive Technologies Pro Cinema speaker system and it really sounds great. The speakers are about the same size as the Bose speakers.
 
If you were to replace the Bose audio system what would you consider?
My Bose remote controller is starting to act up so probably time to look towards a replacement. At home I have a Yamaha RX-V685 A/V amp with Definitive Technologies Pro Cinema speaker system and it really sounds great. The speakers are about the same size as the Bose speakers.

do you also have the Master Bose option?
 
If you were to replace the Bose audio system what would you consider?
My Bose remote controller is starting to act up so probably time to look towards a replacement. At home I have a Yamaha RX-V685 A/V amp with Definitive Technologies Pro Cinema speaker system and it really sounds great. The speakers are about the same size as the Bose speakers.
I would change it out with a Wirless sound bar. Much simpler install and the new ones sound really good. Not as good as a system with a good quality receive and speakers but they are not that far off and much easier to install and use.
 
I agree with parts as long as their available I bought a subwoofer for $100 direct replacement if your Bose has no sound it’s usually the sub. I looked at replacing the entire system and the Bose speaker wiring is a pita!
you can probably do a Sonos wireless system with sub and use your onboard router
That’s prob what I would look at.
 
If you were to replace the Bose audio system what would you consider?
My Bose remote controller is starting to act up so probably time to look towards a replacement. At home I have a Yamaha RX-V685 A/V amp with Definitive Technologies Pro Cinema speaker system and it really sounds great. The speakers are about the same size as the Bose speakers.

To maintain the integrity of the current Bose system you could install a traditional home receiver w/ internal multichannel amp and multiple zones (Onkyo or similar and new Salon Sub, re-use or replace the cubes spkrs with Nano Mirage or similar).

The main zone would be the Salon 5 channels. A second zone (Single channel) for the Rear Cockpit. A third zone (single channel) for the Master and maybe loose the Master sub. Not needed in that small room if you ask me.

Then run or reuse (3) sets Spkr wire to the front channel Cube speakers and center channel, run new (2) sets of speaker wires (for the rear channel and a Sub (RCA Cable) to the Salon sub. You can splice the spkr wires at each sub to tie into the existing wires run to the satellite cubes.
 
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The problem with the Bose system is there's no HDMI. It is a bit of a hack job getting the Bose to work with the HDMI video system upgrade that I did on the boat and not have audio sync issues. So as I'm beginning to have things start to fail with the Bose system, rather than replacing pieces, I'm wondering what others are doing to replace / upgrade to a modern HDMI configuration.
  • I would need 2 audio zones - one for the solon and one for the master.
  • The aft deck speakers (4 plus sub) are configured to the Fusion System head on the helm with a Fusion remote on the aft deck. I'll keep the aft deck as I have it now (it is Zone 2 on the Fusion system).
  • I currently feed a Toslink Optical fiber to the Fusion head from the Bridge television so the Fusion system can play the Bridge TV audio (albeit in stereo). The problem here is the Samsung television on the bridge will pass the Coax (Glomex HD antenna) audio interface but not the HDMI audio interface through the Toslink Optical fiber. I would like to have a complete audio feed for the bridge television to the Fusion audio system.
  • The Fusion Zone 4 is currently configured as fixed voltage output to the Bose (RCA cables) as an input so anything on the fusion can be played through the Bose; I would like to keep that feature in the replacement system so I have SiriusXM and Iphone Bluetooth audio in the cabin areas.
  • We want to keep the HD OTA, Direct TV satellite feed, and BluRay DVD capabilities. But then integrate the boat's internet router and cell phone for Netflix and the like.
  • The downside of my home Yamaha A/V system is the remote is IR and not RF so it needs to be line of sight to use. My Iphone can control the Yamaha via Bluetooth but that does no good for guests in the other cabins.
It's a pretty tall order to have flexibility between Direct TV (HDMI), Over the air HD (GLOMEX Coax), Fusion audio integration, 5 televisions, Security Cameras, and two zones of cabin audio..... This is how I have it now -
52DB AV System 5May2020.jpg
 
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The problem with the Bose system is there's no HDMI. It is a bit of a hack job getting the Bose to work with the HDMI video system upgrade that I did on the boat and not have audio sync issues. So as I'm beginning to have things start to fail with the Bose system, rather than replacing pieces, I'm wondering what others are doing to replace / upgrade to a modern HDMI configuration.
  • I would need 2 audio zones - one for the solon and one for the master.
  • The aft deck speakers (4 plus sub) are configured to the Fusion System head on the helm with a Fusion remote on the aft deck. I'll keep the aft deck as I have it now (it is Zone 2 on the Fusion system).
  • I currently feed a Toslink Optical fiber to the Fusion head from the Bridge television so the Fusion system can play the Bridge TV audio (albeit in stereo). The problem here is the Samsung television on the bridge will pass the Coax (Glomex HD antenna) audio interface but not the HDMI audio interface through the Toslink Optical fiber.
  • The Fusion Zone 4 is currently configured as fixed voltage output to the Bose (RCA cables) as an input so anything on the fusion can be played through the Bose; I would like to keep that feature in the replacement system so I have SiriusXM and Iphone Bluetooth audio in the cabin areas.
  • We want to keep the HD OTA, Direct TV satellite feed, and BluRay DVD capabilities.
  • The downside of my home Yamaha A/V system is the remote is IR and not RF so it needs to be line of sight to use. My Iphone can control the Yamaha via Bluetooth but that does no good for guests in the other cabins.
It's a pretty tall order to have flexibility between Direct TV (HDMI), Over the air HD (GLOMEX Coax), Fusion audio integration, 5 televisions, Security Cameras, and two zones of cabin audio..... This is how I have it now -
View attachment 91543

I believe the system I laid out meets everything you mentioned except for the Remotes. Logitech Harmony Universal Remote will work behind closed doors off WiFi, IR or Bluetooth.

Not sure about the HD OTA.

Also a higher-end receiver will be required to insure you have all inputs needed.
 

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