The Unicorn
Member
Thanks Scott! I'm pretty sure thats not the issue. We've been out multiple times and the levels in both are still the same....I appreciate your response tho
The Unicorn
Member
So the VHF seems to be done. Does anyone know where I can get a vhf set up like we have already? The corded mic that plugs in the helm and the separate speaker?
Stroh
Member
- Apr 12, 2015
- 60
- Boat Info
- 2008 280 Sundancer "Age of Aquarius" 496 Mag, DTS, Kohler gen
2006 Sundancer 240 "Toy Boat" Sold
- Engines
- 496 Mag, DTS, Bravo III
Most of the major VHF manufacturers (Icom, Furuno and Raymarine) make what they call "black box" marine vhf radios, not to be confused with the brand name Black Box radios. Just do an online search.
eigcpa
Member
- Aug 26, 2007
- 47
- Boat Info
- Sundancer 280 2008
- Engines
- Twin 5.0 B3
Closed Cooling
Kohler Genset
I bought a Icom that had everything on the hand unit and had the installer hook it up to the separate speaker
The Unicorn
Member
Great, thank you!! I did just look and found some nice units. I'm honestly not to good with these electronic jobs. But is it as easy as pulling out the old one and the new one hooks up to the existing wires?
The Unicorn
Member
I'll look into that option too...thanks!!
Looks like I have sprung an oil leak in our 2001. It’s driving me crazy because it’s enough to make a mess in the bilge but not enough to show a noticeable difference in fluid levels and can be one of 3 things. However I do think I have narrowed it down to the remote oil filter. Oil is pooling on top of the port motor mount next to the trim reservoir directly under the remote oil filter lines. I was poking around today and there is definitely residual oil on the lines below the oil filter. Before I drop $200 on a new set of oil lines I’m going to bring a wrench with me next time we go out and see if they are loose under the filter adaptor. Is this a common issue?
Half Off
Member
I don't know if it is a common issue but I don't have that problem on my '04.
They call me Tim
Member
- Jul 8, 2020
- 39
- Boat Info
- 2011 280 Sundancer. We cruise on Lake Michigan out of Portage.
- Engines
- Mercruiser 8.2 Mag w/Bravo III drive
Personally, I wouldn't do three starting batteries. I would have one starting battery and two deep cycle house batteries. I would run on 1 and switch to 2 when you are hanging out at the sandbar with the motors off. Never switch when the motors are on or you will possibly fry your alternators.
They call me Tim
Member
- Jul 8, 2020
- 39
- Boat Info
- 2011 280 Sundancer. We cruise on Lake Michigan out of Portage.
- Engines
- Mercruiser 8.2 Mag w/Bravo III drive
New 280 Sundancer owner question.
I just did my first holding tank pump out (fun). It went pretty well and seemed to get everything out like it was supposed to. When I turn the little key switch on in the head it lights up and says "empty", so I guess that's a good thing.
Four questions:
1. When I open my engine hatch, there are two tanks on the starboard side. Which is fresh water and which is the holding tank?
2. How do you know when you're full with the holding tank?
3. How do you know your freshwater level?
4. I filled the freshwater tank with a hose from the dock. Is that ok? Do I need to do anything to the water like a treatment of some sort?
Thanks in advance for the help.
I just did my first holding tank pump out (fun). It went pretty well and seemed to get everything out like it was supposed to. When I turn the little key switch on in the head it lights up and says "empty", so I guess that's a good thing.
Four questions:
1. When I open my engine hatch, there are two tanks on the starboard side. Which is fresh water and which is the holding tank?
2. How do you know when you're full with the holding tank?
3. How do you know your freshwater level?
4. I filled the freshwater tank with a hose from the dock. Is that ok? Do I need to do anything to the water like a treatment of some sort?
Thanks in advance for the help.
Stroh
Member
- Apr 12, 2015
- 60
- Boat Info
- 2008 280 Sundancer "Age of Aquarius" 496 Mag, DTS, Kohler gen
2006 Sundancer 240 "Toy Boat" Sold
- Engines
- 496 Mag, DTS, Bravo III
IMHO, like many things, because of different circumstances and situations you could get different answers that are correct. For example, with one motor and two batteries, I tried to use one battery going out and switched to the second battery coming back, so both got approximately the same "use". Some people will put the switch on both and forget it. If I was going to be on the hook I would use one battery for the DC circuits so if it ran down I still had battery two to start the engine. Caution: as stated above, don't change battery switch with either one or both engines running.
I believe on the 280DA with twin engines, the aft battery switch selects either "battery 1" (which is the port, forward battery) and will power the port engine and DC (house) circuits, "battery 2" (which is the starboard, forward battery) will also power the port engine and DC circuits, or "both" which uses both "battery 1" and "2" to power the port engine and DC circuits. The forward battery switch selects battery "3" (which is the aft battery) and powers the starboard engine and genset (if so equipped). That setup allows you to use either battery 1, 2, or both 1 and 2 to run the DC (house) circuits with engines off and should prevent you being stranded if you run battery 1, 2, or even batteries 1 and 2 completely dead while engines are off. You should still be able to start the starboard engine or the genset (if so equipped). Theoretically, starting batteries for starting engines and deep cycle batteries for the DC circuits but with this setup I doubt it matters all that much unless you plan to run the DC (house) circuits a lot while the engines are off. Besides the way this is setup all 3 of the batteries are used for starting engines.
When on shore power all batteries should be charged by the "AC converter" with the battery switched to off/1/2/both.
I can't take credit for this great illustration below of what I tried explain above. I believe one of the contributors to this forum and/or someone on the FB 280 Sundancer group did it.
I believe on the 280DA with twin engines, the aft battery switch selects either "battery 1" (which is the port, forward battery) and will power the port engine and DC (house) circuits, "battery 2" (which is the starboard, forward battery) will also power the port engine and DC circuits, or "both" which uses both "battery 1" and "2" to power the port engine and DC circuits. The forward battery switch selects battery "3" (which is the aft battery) and powers the starboard engine and genset (if so equipped). That setup allows you to use either battery 1, 2, or both 1 and 2 to run the DC (house) circuits with engines off and should prevent you being stranded if you run battery 1, 2, or even batteries 1 and 2 completely dead while engines are off. You should still be able to start the starboard engine or the genset (if so equipped). Theoretically, starting batteries for starting engines and deep cycle batteries for the DC circuits but with this setup I doubt it matters all that much unless you plan to run the DC (house) circuits a lot while the engines are off. Besides the way this is setup all 3 of the batteries are used for starting engines.
When on shore power all batteries should be charged by the "AC converter" with the battery switched to off/1/2/both.
I can't take credit for this great illustration below of what I tried explain above. I believe one of the contributors to this forum and/or someone on the FB 280 Sundancer group did it.
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Darrenfon
Member
- Aug 28, 2018
- 88
- Boat Info
- Acquired Oct 2019
2005 280 DA
Kohler 5kw
- Engines
- Twin 4.3L MPI Alphas
Does anyone know the size of our portlights and where I might be able to get replacement gaskets for them? After tropical storm Isaias I found I have a leak in one of them.
Also, on a related note, any thoughts on replacing the sliding door behind the sink and stove? It looks like the leak hit that and caused it to swell and disintegrate. Almost looks like cardboard after it got wet.
Also, on a related note, any thoughts on replacing the sliding door behind the sink and stove? It looks like the leak hit that and caused it to swell and disintegrate. Almost looks like cardboard after it got wet.
I’m a new owner as well. But I can sort of help. On the starboard side tanks you will see one with an 18”ish long filter on top. That’s your holding tank vent. If you don’t know when it was last replaced go ahead and replace it ours was just hanging and smelled like poo on the deck anytime anyone flushed.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E533IE8/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_api_i_bfjnFb
After you pump out the key panel like you noticed says empty. As it fills up it will say 1/2. That’s about when we pump out to be on the safe side.
For fresh water I’m not sure about level but would love to know myself. I have not done it yet but a friend of mine who has owned campers told me if you don’t treat the fresh water it will start to smell like rotten eggs. It’s next on my list. I fill from the dockside also but would not drink the water.
They call me Tim
Member
- Jul 8, 2020
- 39
- Boat Info
- 2011 280 Sundancer. We cruise on Lake Michigan out of Portage.
- Engines
- Mercruiser 8.2 Mag w/Bravo III drive
I have looked at both panels (electrical and head) and don't have a freshwater indicator. I'm not sure if they just don't include those on the smaller boats?
I'm going to get one of those filters. There was a bit of a smell when I first got the boat, but I added a blue pouch by flushing it in the head and the smell went away. The blue pouches are here:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006GF5SK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'm also going to buy something to treat the freshwater. We don't use it a lot and I don't want it to start stinking.
Darrenfon
Member
- Aug 28, 2018
- 88
- Boat Info
- Acquired Oct 2019
2005 280 DA
Kohler 5kw
- Engines
- Twin 4.3L MPI Alphas
Does anyone know the size of our portlights and where I might be able to get replacement gaskets for them? After tropical storm Isaias I found I have a leak in one of them.
Also, on a related note, any thoughts on replacing the sliding door behind the sink and stove? It looks like the leak hit that and caused it to swell and disintegrate. Almost looks like cardboard after it got wet.
Come on hive mind. Anyone have any answers to this one???
Henry Boyd
Well-Known Member
- Apr 24, 2007
- 6,014
- Boat Info
- ‘09 Sabre 38 Hardtop Express “Serenity”
- Engines
- Volvo D6 w/IPS450 Pods
Leaks are most often caused by loss of pressure of the frame against the gasket. The lever lock has a set screw on it that can be turned to increase the pressure. The lever is attached to the frame and the screw is the contact with the glass.
As for size:Measure longest dimension and widest height. Then look up manufacturer’s product line and pick out your porthole.
So turns out its really hard to search for two letter words like TV. I am looking for some pictures of TV upgrades to the TV to the right of the galley. I am wanting to put an arm inside the shelf and put in a bigger TV but cant decide on a TV size. I dont care if it fits back into the void. Just looking for some ideas.I see lots of people who put it to the left but my TV is to the right.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0779JSRH5/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2K3WARBVMJ9U9&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0779JSRH5/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2K3WARBVMJ9U9&psc=1
Last edited:
Henry Boyd
Well-Known Member
- Apr 24, 2007
- 6,014
- Boat Info
- ‘09 Sabre 38 Hardtop Express “Serenity”
- Engines
- Volvo D6 w/IPS450 Pods
This is the mount I used on our 280, and re-used on both TVs on the new boat:
https://www.amazon.com/MyCableMart-3-Way-Travel-Adjustable-Bracket/dp/B01DOL2T46/ref=sr_1_33_sspa?crid=WXWDB03CJMO8&dchild=1&keywords=rv+tv+mount&qid=1597420411&sprefix=Rv+,aps,175&sr=8-33-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzMTdNRjhRSUlMQ0lEJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODg5MDcwMlIzNE8wQks5SUpUNCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTI0MzI3MkwyRE4yOUQyT04zWCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0Zl9uZXh0JmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
It comes with two wall brackets so you can have tv in two locations. The wall brackets are also equipped with set screws so you can lock the thing in place.
Personally I think mounting the tv to the outside of the vee berth “closet/cabinet” is a location that works for the tv and then gives you back some much needed storage capacity.
https://www.amazon.com/MyCableMart-3-Way-Travel-Adjustable-Bracket/dp/B01DOL2T46/ref=sr_1_33_sspa?crid=WXWDB03CJMO8&dchild=1&keywords=rv+tv+mount&qid=1597420411&sprefix=Rv+,aps,175&sr=8-33-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzMTdNRjhRSUlMQ0lEJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODg5MDcwMlIzNE8wQks5SUpUNCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTI0MzI3MkwyRE4yOUQyT04zWCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0Zl9uZXh0JmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
It comes with two wall brackets so you can have tv in two locations. The wall brackets are also equipped with set screws so you can lock the thing in place.
Personally I think mounting the tv to the outside of the vee berth “closet/cabinet” is a location that works for the tv and then gives you back some much needed storage capacity.
Josh28161
Active Member
Does anyone know the size of our portlights and where I might be able to get replacement gaskets for them? After tropical storm Isaias I found I have a leak in one of them.
Also, on a related note, any thoughts on replacing the sliding door behind the sink and stove? It looks like the leak hit that and caused it to swell and disintegrate. Almost looks like cardboard after it got wet.
My last boat was a 94 Grady White. The windows leaked so I removed them and Re-sealed with 4200. There were no gaskets between the frame and the fiberglass. Just a bed of sealant. No leaks afterwards. I would wager similar with the Sea Ray.