Windless Problems

Flytrade

Flytrade

Active Member
Feb 20, 2018
302
Bradenton, FL
Boat Info
2006 320 Sundancer
Engines
Twin 6.2L Mercruiser
My dash has three buttons to operate the windless. One is an on-off button, the other two are for up and down. The way the system should/did work is I press the first button to turn the system on. A green light comes on and stays on. The windless is then operated up and down with the other two buttons. The system is then turned off by hitting the first button and the green light goes out.

Now I have to press and hold the first button to turn/keep the system/green light on. Also, sometimes the anchor does not come up, and has to be raised manually.

Is the problem in the dash/button, or is there a solenoid, etc. someplace else that is the problem?
 
Sounds to me like....and I am not a boat or windlass mechanic...but it may be that you have a latching switch to turn the system on. Press-On, Press-Off. The latching part of that switch may have failed mechanically, so it now acts like a momentary switch meaning you have to hold it to keep the system on.
 
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You described the problem perfectly. However, I’m not sure if the problem is in the switch, a remote solenoid, or some other part.

Assuming the problem is in the switch itself, it seems there are two solutions. One would be to replace the entire panel, the other would be to remove the panel and try to fix the switch from the backside. I wonder if anyone has any experience with this?
 
I had issue yesterday where I was pulling anchor up and when I took my finger off the button the anchor continued coming up until I hit the power button. Hope it’s a simple reset process as the replacement to regular rocker switches for both panels and new EIM that Fp sells is $3700. Anyone else have similar issues ?
 
Voltagesls said:
I had issue yesterday where I was pulling anchor up and when I took my finger off the button the anchor continued coming up until I hit the power button. Hope it’s a simple reset process as the replacement to regular rocker switches for both panels and new EIM that Fp sells is $3700. Anyone else have similar issues ?
Click to expand...
Yes! Now you are talking about what I think it is. It is not only the anchor. It can be any switch on the panel. I have had them stick on and I have had them stick off. For now I am waiting to see how bad it gets. The one that really worries me is if my running lights would go off when i needed them. My port side panel is good for now but this is a problem on Searay boats for about 10 years. My boat is a 2003
 
Voltagesls said:
https://www.fpmarine.com/Kidney-EIM-Replacement-System-p/sr-panel-eim-280-340-kidney.htm

This is one expensive option if it comes down to it.... I also found another sea ray dealer who stocks the replacement panels but they are non-returnable so you want to verify that’s the issue and it’s nothing else. (https://www.ebay.com/itm/282017159737)
Click to expand...
The ebay panel you show is the panel I am referring to, with the 3 anchor buttons on the lower left corner.
I actually have a spare panel from the previous owner, but it is of a different color and I’m not sure if it works or not. However, looking at the back side, it appears I may be able to cut away the protective coating to get to the switch electronics. It could be nothing more than shooting a little electrical lubricant on the switches to fix the problem. If my panel gets any worse I’ll give it a try since the only other option is to purchase a new panel.
Can a panel be purchased from an aftermarket supplier, or must we go through Sea Ray?
 
I wonder how often these types of electrical dash switch/gauge problems are caused by leaving a boat uncovered and allowing these components to get soaked every time it rains. it can't be good for these electrical components to get saturated every time it rains.
 
Flytrade said:
It could be nothing more than shooting a little electrical lubricant on the switches to fix the problem.
Click to expand...
Not likely... those keypad switches send a data signal to the EIM which in-turn sets a relay. If the relay does not latch it may be a problem in the EIM.
You will notice the keypad only has 4 connections... 12V, ground, data+, and data-
 
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