Power winch, Profile 2000, ideas please.

Arminius

Well-Known Member
Oct 30, 2019
1,059
Seattle
Boat Info
Bowrider 200 Select, 2003
Engines
5.0L MPI, 260 hp w/Alpha 1 Drive
I'm mulling over how to put a power winch on my Shoreland'r tandem Profile 2000 bunk trailer to haul out my 20' Bowrider. My wallet and key fob are getting wet putting the trailer in deep and there are more hidden potholes. Profile 2000 combines trailer jack, bow stop and winch in a short low profile package behind the tongue hinge and under the bow. My current scheme is to cut the winch welds off the factory base with an angle grinder and to bolt a power winch on in place. Found stand alone galvanized post and bow-stop to U-bolt to trailer frame. Powering the thing, I might have my mechanic with a lift permanently wire tie #1 jumper cables under the car on the non-exhaust side and leave the positive clamp loose alongside the + jump post by the battery. In back, they would terminate in a high amp two connector plug, the other side of which would permanently connect to the winch.
Powering the boat on to the trailer is forbidden.
I've written Shoreland'r and e-trailer and will see what they have to say.
Winch's cost $100 for inadequate cheapos to $550 for one for a heavier boat. Are there any decent ones in-between?
Rope-a-boat had a bracket to replace the one I intend to alter with ears for the bow snubber but it is no longer available.
 
On my trailer boat I removed the manual winch and replaced it with a power winch so I have experience. I do not remember all the details. I do think your jumper cables are a BAD idea. I have a dual battery set up on my truck. It would be much better to wire straight to the battery or a junction box right off the battery. A proper fuse should be mounted as close to the battery as possible in case something goes wrong. Run proper size wire sheathed in a protective cover along the frame rails to the bumper. Your winch will come with the correct mounting bracket for the power cable. There is a good amount of amperage involved do it right to avoid problems.

As for the winch mount I changed out the post to accommodate the new winch. I did have to raise the bow with a jack to get enough room to install the post. Shorelander has a lot of posts to choose from. Good luck
 
Don't use fuses, wire two 30 amp breakers in parallel and go to auto parts and get connecters that they use for battery operated fork lifts. Got electric winches on both my trailers, one for 21' and other for my 290 DA, wouldn't load the boats any other way. The circuit breakers will reset if they get too hot in 20-30 seconds where the fuses will need replaced which will make you new friends while sitting at ramp with people waiting for you to finish. You only need one wire run from battery to back as you can ground to frame back the for other connection
 
Just choosing the winch is complicated. Want an optional handcrank on port side as Profile 2000 trailer jack crank is on starboard. Obviously should have freewheel. Powerwinch products look good but I'd prefer cranks on opposite sides.
I can handle electricals but just wanted to float my idea of leaving heavy cables permanently under truck but only moving positive clamp to positive post under hood when I have the boat hooked up. No fuses or CBs at this amp level for me. A 2nd battery on trailer is heavy, complicated and probably requires garage charging.
 
For the record, Shoreland'r says:
"John, to add a power winch to your trailer you will need to change the winch stand assembly. The power winch stand assembly is P/N TA0231-03. You will also need to add jack mounting hardware to reattach your tongue jack. That hardware is P/N 3310053. I have attached service manuals for your trailer and the winch assembly for your reference. I suggest contacting Voyager manufacturing in Ogden, UT 801-627-3531 for assistance in acquiring needed parts and accessories.
Gary Jensen
Customer Service Representative
122 E. State Hwy. 175 · Ida Grove, IA 51445
T 712.364.3365 ext. 246
TF 800.859.3028
F 712.364.3361
ShoreLandr.com · ShoreStation.com "
 
The wiring you run will be fine just wire tie it up so it doesn't flop around under truck, this is my 3rd truck with wiring under truck and never had a problem in last 30 years using power winches!
 
Researching winches, your under chassis wiring method is preferred in the Fulton XLT instructions.
Much happier about this project. The new Shoreland'r winch post is $338 plus shipping and built for the job. The conversion kit for the trailer jack is $15. I gave up on this idea once before without checking with Shoreland'r. Something still could go wrong but I hope to report success in a couple weeks. Lots of helpful people in the industry.
Shipping is $83 though!
 
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Researching winches, your under chassis wiring method is preferred in the Fulton XLT instructions.
Much happier about this project. The new Shoreland'r winch post is $338 plus shipping and built for the job. The conversion kit for the trailer jack is $15. I gave up on this idea once before without checking with Shoreland'r. Something still could go wrong but I hope to report success in a couple weeks. Lots of helpful people in the industry.

Call these guys, a wealth of information, massive inventory and always helpful.

https://www.easternmarine.com/

No affiliation but close if you would like hands on.
 
Voyager Manufacturing, Ogden, 801-627-3531, seems to be the outlet for Shoreland'r parts. I placed my order with them but parts will be shipped directly from Shoreland'r in Iowa, even if they have to custom build them. My stuff isn't listed by Eastern but I appreciate the suggestion.
 
Installing Dutton-Lainson StrongArm Electric Winch - Item # DL25215, TW9000. Comes with 25' of #8 gauge wire with twin 35 amp CB's mounted to plate to screw to + battery post. Contacted Dutton-Lainson and they explained the 70 amp combined is to protect wiring and chassis from shorts on way back to winch. Winch itself has its own internal protection.

I'd prefer not to have "hot" gadget array exposed under hood and will wire to existing fused 100 amp + post for engine cooling fan. Ordered a spare fuse to tape into obvious position. Yes, both devices could operate at once blowing fuse. But, pretty unlikely and eliminating CBs will make for a cleaner install. Battery posts used to get pretty crusty and the idea of permanently mounting devices to them is not appealing.
 
Contacted Dutton-Lainson and they explained the 70 amp combined is to protect wiring and chassis from shorts on way back to winch.
The primary purpose of fuses/breakers has always been to protect the wiring, not the accessory. The wiring can heat up and burn, causing a fire. With that in mind, it's possible that using the 100a for that wiring is incorrect and may not protect the wiring properly. Check the DC wiring charts that are readily available - compare amp draw of the winch to wire size to wire run length (+ & - roundtrip).

Battery post crust is either corrosion and/or off gassing - both easily cleaned and then protected. You've already got a number of hot wires under there - really not a big deal to have another one - in fact, that's a pretty normal way to wire these things. However, you could use a battery shut-off if you prefer.
 
DSCN0274[1].JPG
Put in the Shoreland'r winchpost, installed the Strongarm 9000 winch, ran an 8 gauge wire under truck, hooked directly to battery post with supplied two 35amp assembly and tried it out today. It worked really well! Yes, I couldn't help but look smug as I winched the boat on to the trailer.
 
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