40 sedan bridge forum

According to the owners manual the forward bilge pump is the one that's forward in the engine room.
Yup, but it doesn't sound the alarm. The two pumps that sound the alarm are the "emergency forward bilge pump", which is the pump in the cabin forward of the engine room bulkhead under the inward Guest stateroom bunk, and the "aft emergency bilge pump" which some call the high water pump. It's mounted in the back of the engine room on a ledge about a foot higher than the regular old aft bilge pump (which doesn't sound an alarm).
 
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Looking for recommendations/advises :)

We are now on the market for a 400 sedan bridge and we have couple of options in our budget. 3 options are within the same price range, with differences in options - all fresh water (Ontario, Canada).

The 2 first options:
1) Sea Ray 400 Sedan Bridge 2000
Caterpillar 3116 - 680hp - 1123 hours
Price firm

2) Sea Ray 400 Sedan Bridge 2000
Caterpillar 3126 DD - 700HP - 1700 hours
Price negotiable as the boat need a good cleanup. But come with a dinghy lift, satellite TV, new batteries bank. Boat had 3 owners, all from the same marina with service history.

My broker just came with a 3rd one that he is just getting in. Sorry no much details for now

3) Sea Ray 400 Sedan Bridge 1999
New Starboard engine, Rebuilt Port engine

I am waiting more details on the 3rd one, and of course, complete surveys, oil analysis, mechanical inspection before pulling the trigger.

But we would still appreciate any feedback from you experience?

Some of our concerns:
1) before 2001, balsa cored hull. if survey is ok, would you still consider it? or wait for 2001+ older
2) hours on the engine. Option 2) is most likely were I can get the better price, and we would most likely go over the 2,000 hours mark over the next 4-5 years. I understand diesels can go way beyond that but thinking about the selling value

Thank you very much
 
1) keep the boat caulked at the joints and fix any hull cracks (as you would with any boat) and the cored hull is fine. Lots of fine boats have coresd hulls. It makes them lighter. Sea Rays have more known issues with moisture on decks - around the hatches, portals and joints. Have the survey check those areas well. (Again, as you would with any boat).

2) you can get the better price with the owner that is more willing to deal. That’s the variable in prices, not the boats. Get the boat that fits you best and don’t worry about resale. Resale is going to be more dictated by how YOU care for it and your records. That being said, I’d have a personal bias against boat 3. A well maintained boat should not need new or rebuilt engines at this stage. But that’s my personal bias. As for the other two, you need to see proof of 1000 hour service, regular after cooler service, etc. I don’t know the Cats. One of them is preferred on here much more than the other, so I’ll let Cat owners answer that one.
 
One of my upcoming winter projects is to replace the bridge warning system. It's old, and I want to put in a more modern setup. I don't need the engine warnings as my engines were upgraded and I have the Smartcraft Tachs which display any faults. I just installed a new genset, so I want to hook up a bridge system for it as well. Another related project is to place a couple of engine room cameras as well.
 
1) keep the boat caulked at the joints and fix any hull cracks (as you would with any boat) and the cored hull is fine. Lots of fine boats have coresd hulls. It makes them lighter. Sea Rays have more known issues with moisture on decks - around the hatches, portals and joints. Have the survey check those areas well. (Again, as you would with any boat).

2) you can get the better price with the owner that is more willing to deal. That’s the variable in prices, not the boats. Get the boat that fits you best and don’t worry about resale. Resale is going to be more dictated by how YOU care for it and your records. That being said, I’d have a personal bias against boat 3. A well maintained boat should not need new or rebuilt engines at this stage. But that’s my personal bias. As for the other two, you need to see proof of 1000 hour service, regular after cooler service, etc. I don’t know the Cats. One of them is preferred on here much more than the other, so I’ll let Cat owners answer that one.

Thank you Scooper321, appreciate your feedback
 
One of my upcoming winter projects is to replace the bridge warning system. It's old, and I want to put in a more modern setup. I don't need the engine warnings as my engines were upgraded and I have the Smartcraft Tachs which display any faults. I just installed a new genset, so I want to hook up a bridge system for it as well. Another related project is to place a couple of engine room cameras as well.

I know you said you don’t need engine monitoring. But there’s a nice write up on here about replacing the Sea Ray Monitor with a Maretron monitor. I think the Maretron can handle a ton of events, so maybe it will work for what you want to monitor? I’m holding out for my SR Monitor to die before doing this.
http://clubsearay.com/index.php?thr...nd-improve-the-sea-ray-systems-monitor.91270/
 
Yup, but it doesn't sound the alarm. The two pumps that sound the alarm are the "emergency forward bilge pump", which is the pump in the cabin forward of the engine room bulkhead under the inward Guest stateroom bunk, and the "aft emergency bilge pump" which some call the high water pump. It's mounted in the back of the engine room on a ledge about a foot higher than the regular old aft bilge pump (which doesn't sound an alarm).
So I wet vac’ed the bilge pump area at the front of the engine room. The notification (it was never an audible alarm) on the Sea Ray Monitor disappeared for a while. It reappeared after 90 mins of running, probably because I need to replace Orings in my starboard engine strainer. But at least I know it’s the one in the engine room.
 
What’s the trick to removing freezer from cockpit?
I’ve removed just about everything from the front of the unit, next step saw-swall!
 
What’s the trick to removing freezer from cockpit?
I’ve removed just about everything from the front of the unit, next step saw-swall!

Once the white compartment door frame is removed, unscrew the gray wood frame holding the ice maker in place. Two screws on each side if I recall. Pushing the wood frame backward into the compartment will allow you to lift and pull the ice maker out.
 
1) keep the boat caulked at the joints and fix any hull cracks (as you would with any boat) and the cored hull is fine. Lots of fine boats have coresd hulls. It makes them lighter. Sea Rays have more known issues with moisture on decks - around the hatches, portals and joints. Have the survey check those areas well. (Again, as you would with any boat).

2) you can get the better price with the owner that is more willing to deal. That’s the variable in prices, not the boats. Get the boat that fits you best and don’t worry about resale. Resale is going to be more dictated by how YOU care for it and your records. That being said, I’d have a personal bias against boat 3. A well maintained boat should not need new or rebuilt engines at this stage. But that’s my personal bias. As for the other two, you need to see proof of 1000 hour service, regular after cooler service, etc. I don’t know the Cats. One of them is preferred on here much more than the other, so I’ll let Cat owners answer that one.

I have Cat 3116s, My son is a Cat Mechanic so I asked him and some of his co workers to compare opinions of 3116/3126.

As I understand it, (from 3 years ago memory) the 3126 is computer controlled and the 3116 is mechanical controlled. The computer can be tweaked to tune the 3126 a little bit and the mechanical 3116 cannot, other than maybe injector timing. More to go wrong on the 3126 computer and less on the 3116 mechanical system. I think we will hear several opinions on which one is best similar to a Ford or Chevy discussion. I love the 3116s they just purr along like a couple of good cats.
 
I have Cat 3116s, My son is a Cat Mechanic so I asked him and some of his co workers to compare opinions of 3116/3126.

As I understand it, (from 3 years ago memory) the 3126 is computer controlled and the 3116 is mechanical controlled. The computer can be tweaked to tune the 3126 a little bit and the mechanical 3116 cannot, other than maybe injector timing. More to go wrong on the 3126 computer and less on the 3116 mechanical system. I think we will hear several opinions on which one is best similar to a Ford or Chevy discussion. I love the 3116s they just purr along like a couple of good cats.

Thank you Bob for your feedback. So no much noticeable difference in term of power or speed as I understand it. We are not looking at speed anyway by moving to fly bridge from an express cruiser. More for space for the full family and range to cruise on Georgian Bay
 
What is the easiest method you have used to get better water flow from your AC system.
I checked my strainer basket and cleaned it but my water flow seems a little slower than normal when I had the AC running. Does the relay water pump for our AC units have an impeller? What have you used to notice a difference if anything?
 
What is the easiest method you have used to get better water flow from your AC system.
I checked my strainer basket and cleaned it but my water flow seems a little slower than normal when I had the AC running. Does the relay water pump for our AC units have an impeller? What have you used to notice a difference if anything?

The impeller on the ac water pump is magnetic. So it doesn't actually wear out like a rubber impeller.

However, your ac water lines can build up a sludge and/or algae which will decrease water flow. About twice a year I disconnect the line coming out of the pump, hook a hose pipe to it and use the city water from the dock to flush the lines. Typically there is enough pressure to blow the gunk out. First two or three blast I give it it's amazing to see what comes out. I also do the other line as well.
 
Thank you Bob for your feedback. So no much noticeable difference in term of power or speed as I understand it. We are not looking at speed anyway by moving to fly bridge from an express cruiser. More for space for the full family and range to cruise on Georgian Bay

Do a little hunting around here on CSR. Go over in the technical forums and look for information on those two engines. There is a lot of information on CSR about the various Cat engines.
 
Do a little hunting around here on CSR. Go over in the technical forums and look for information on those two engines. There is a lot of information on CSR about the various Cat engines.

Thank you and yes I am doing it. Tons of good info. still learning, new to this forum and hopefully to Sea Ray soon now that we are boatless :)
 
The impeller on the ac water pump is magnetic. So it doesn't actually wear out like a rubber impeller.

However, your ac water lines can build up a sludge and/or algae which will decrease water flow. About twice a year I disconnect the line coming out of the pump, hook a hose pipe to it and use the city water from the dock to flush the lines. Typically there is enough pressure to blow the gunk out. First two or three blast I give it it's amazing to see what comes out. I also do the other line as well.

I think I can also backflush barnacle buster or a similar additive correct ? Have you or anyone else done this ? I may try to power the blockage through if I can’t descale it.
 
Looking for recommendations/advises :)

We are now on the market for a 400 sedan bridge and we have couple of options in our budget. 3 options are within the same price range, with differences in options - all fresh water (Ontario, Canada).

The 2 first options:
1) Sea Ray 400 Sedan Bridge 2000
Caterpillar 3116 - 680hp - 1123 hours
Price firm

2) Sea Ray 400 Sedan Bridge 2000
Caterpillar 3126 DD - 700HP - 1700 hours
Price negotiable as the boat need a good cleanup. But come with a dinghy lift, satellite TV, new batteries bank. Boat had 3 owners, all from the same marina with service history.

My broker just came with a 3rd one that he is just getting in. Sorry no much details for now

3) Sea Ray 400 Sedan Bridge 1999
New Starboard engine, Rebuilt Port engine

I am waiting more details on the 3rd one, and of course, complete surveys, oil analysis, mechanical inspection before pulling the trigger.

But we would still appreciate any feedback from you experience?

Some of our concerns:
1) before 2001, balsa cored hull. if survey is ok, would you still consider it? or wait for 2001+ older
2) hours on the engine. Option 2) is most likely were I can get the better price, and we would most likely go over the 2,000 hours mark over the next 4-5 years. I understand diesels can go way beyond that but thinking about the selling value

Thank you very much

I have the 3116's in my 400 Sedan Bridge. They just purr along and as Bartlett Bob mentioned they are fully mechanical engines.

Here is a post by Frank Webster and a link to a thread here on CSR about the 3116's vs the 3126's.

3116 vs. 3126 Caterpillars?

THe 3116TA and the 3126B-TA are basically the same engine since they are based on the same block design. The major difference is in displacement which is because the 3126 has a larger bore than the 3116.

(NOTE: I can't make this table format...hope you can figure it out!)

3116 3126

hp versions in Sea Rays 300 & 350 385 & 420
Bore 4.12" vs 4.33"
Stroke 5.00" vs 5.00"
CID/L 403 cu "/6.6L vs 4.39 cu"/7.2L

fuel burn at cruise/ engine 11.3 gph vs 13.6 gph


There are some other minor differences in injection timing and pressure.

I don't have the performance figures on the 410DA but I do on the 450DA. Sea Ray published a top speed of 27 mph on the 450 with 3116's and 29 mph with 3126's. In my view, that is about the only place you will notice any substantive difference in the engines. A 2 mph difference at WOT is more like a 1.7 mph difference at recommended cruise rpms of 2400. Further, most owners of this type of boat realize that the trip is as much or more fun than the destination, so they run at more like 2200 rpms making the actual speed difference more like 1.5 mph. Our 450DA w/3116's, runs at 23 mph at rated cruise (2400rpm) which means that a 3126 powered boat would have a 7% speed gain over our 3116's, yet the additional fuel burn at the same rpms is more like 20%.

I can't get real excited about owning 3126 over 3116's......given equal quality boats, the same equipment and comparable pricing, I'd probably choose the 3116 powered boat. That said, I suspect the resale would be easier and net a higher number with 3126's.

There are some things you need to know about Caterpillar engines before writing a check or making any commitments. That area is pretty far beyond the scope of your question, so when you are ready to hear the Paul Harvey ("the rest of the story") version, let me know and I'll go through it with you.


http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php...6/#:~:text=3116 vs.,larger bore than the 3116.
 
So I'm dealing with an electrical quirk. My starboard engine switch on the helm, when activated I get zero. Checked the CB on the electrical panel, checked fine as does the ignition switch. Just no voltage to the CB.

If I press emergency start, and energize the starboard switch, I get 8 volts on the amp meter. If I start the port engine, then press emergency start, then energize starboard I get 12+ volts and can start the engine.

FWIW, I have 3 new batteries installed, and recently changed the solenoid for the emergency start. Looking at the wiring diagram I am suspecting the battery isolator may be at fault.

Anyone have any experience with this?
 

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