410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread**

Any 410 DA owners, and possibly others looking for the black rubber screw bumpers on cabin entryway hatch? I have an abundance and be happy to send them to you if you pm me your address. My 410 uses 4 of them.
Marty
 
marty51 said:
Any 410 DA owners, and possibly others looking for the black rubber screw bumpers on cabin entryway hatch? I have an abundance and be happy to send them to you if you pm me your address. My 410 uses 4 of them.
Marty
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PM sent
 
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dtfeld said:
Looks like your from the Great Lakes area. This would be a GREAT boat for the Great Lakes.

I personally think the boat runs at a nice attitude with the stock tabs. I run at 2300-2400 full tabs down. Wider would have been better, but there is just not that much real estate on the transom.

With the Diesel engines, you are up on plane in just a few seconds, I put the tabs all the way down and power strait to the desired RPM (unlike gas were you go full throttle to get up on plane then pull back to cruise power). I turn on the engine sync and you can cruise all day in about anything your crew can comfortably handle.
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When I called Bennett tabs they recommended I put fins on the sides of may trim tabs. They really help keep the bow down. Since you can't put longer tabs on the tunnel Drive Bennett sent the fins for free.
 
Hey guys, I need to tighten my port rudder seal. It seems pretty easy. Loosen top nut, tighten lower nut then re-tighten the top. Correct? What size wrenches do I need for the nuts?
 
Cocktail Time said:
Hey guys, I need to tighten my port rudder seal. It seems pretty easy. Loosen top nut, tighten lower nut then re-tighten the top. Correct? What size wrenches do I need for the nuts?
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Actually, loosen and thread the lower jamb nut down several threads then gradually thread the upper packing nut down to compress the packing then thread and tighten the lower nut back up to the packing nut. Just an observation but if your packing has never been changed since the 90's, it's probably due for a change. It's not that much more work if you are successful on loosening the packing nut. Sorry, I can't remember the wrench size....
 
RollerCoastr said:
Has anyone documented the process of replacing the screen in the hidden/fake porthole?

Mine is now shredded, but I'm struggling to find the motivation to tear apart the cupboard...
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I just did ours. I took a fresh razor and finally cut that nasty thing out leaving it bare. Been looking at it for few years. Why go through the hassle of reinstalling a screen when it’s a dummy
 
Greetings, 400 owners. Have any of you folks replaced your anchor? Any chance someone can confirm that a Lewmar self launching anchor will work perfectly with our existing anchor davit setup? The manual calls for a 35lbs plow but obviously I'd like to get the exact match if possible.

And as a public service announcement...check your anchor rode splice :) I lost my anchor and 50 feet of chain yesterday while anchored in calm conditions in Lake Michigan. I guess I can't say for sure someone didn't run over the line but I'm leaning toward my splice giving up. I was just a few minutes away from the boat being fully beached before I noticed it. Pretty scary stuff.
 
Stee6043 said:
And as a public service announcement...check your anchor rode splice :) I lost my anchor and 50 feet of chain yesterday while anchored in calm conditions in Lake Michigan.
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Yep, been there, got the T-shirt!

I was only in 17’ of water, but it was after midnight when I lowered the hook on a calm night. I was still in the cockpit when a refreshing breeze came from the starboard side of the boat. “Hey wait, how can a breeze come at the boat sideways while at anchor?!?”

Nothing but frayed rode where the splice to the chain should’ve been.

The next wkd I loaded 10 of my closest friends and busy-bodies, an O2 tank, 2 dogs and a spare anchor and we went out to the “V” in the GPS tracks that showed where the anchor set itself free.

My diver buddy surfaced in just a matter of minutes, proudly holding my anchor, when the weight of it took him back down. He had to go back down to grab the CHAIN instead. lol
 
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If replacing the rode, I would also suggest replacing the swivel. Bennett lost his anchor last summer when the bolt holding the two halves of the stock swivel together sheared. I replaced mine proactively based on his experience. I went with a Mantus and so far a very cost effective insurance policy.
 
Cocktail Time said:
Hey guys, I need to tighten my port rudder seal. It seems pretty easy. Loosen top nut, tighten lower nut then re-tighten the top. Correct? What size wrenches do I need for the nuts?
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I used Harbor freight tools. I think either a 24" adjustable wrench, or their aluminum pipe wrench. I bought both, and you can borrow if you like. I also have the packing removal tool.
 
I run 300' of chain, no need for rode.
 
dtfeld said:
If replacing the rode, I would also suggest replacing the swivel. Bennett lost his anchor last summer when the bolt holding the two halves of the stock swivel together sheared. I replaced mine proactively based on his experience. I went with a Mantus and so far a very cost effective insurance policy.
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I'm likely going all chain and was considering skipping the swivel in favor of a shackle. My prior setup did not have a swivel. What is the benefit??

Based on the responses overall I'm assuming nobody has replaced their anchor :) I may have to roll the dice on the Lewmar Delta. Hmm...
 
Stee6043 said:
I'm likely going all chain and was considering skipping the swivel in favor of a shackle. My prior setup did not have a swivel. What is the benefit??

Based on the responses overall I'm assuming nobody has replaced their anchor :) I may have to roll the dice on the Lewmar Delta. Hmm...
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I have not had to replace the anchor, but I have a (estimate) 35 lb delta style anchor. They fit nicely in the bow rollers, self orients into the bow rollers and I think is original to the boat. Hope that helps.

As far as a swivel, Mantus page did a good job laying out the need (or no need) for a swivel, but states generally not necessary except if anchoring in one place for a long time (prevent twist in the chain). The one other feature is that it can help with the anchor orienting as it stows.

You could go without and see if you like the set up and add one later if necessary.

https://www.mantusmarine.com/mantus-anchor-knowledgebase/swivels/#:~:text=Swivels are used to attach,the bow roller on retrieval.
 
dtfeld said:
I have not had to replace the anchor, but I have a (estimate) 35 lb delta style anchor. They fit nicely in the bow rollers, self orients into the bow rollers and I think is original to the boat. Hope that helps.

As far as a swivel, Mantus page did a good job laying out the need (or no need) for a swivel, but states generally not necessary except if anchoring in one place for a long time (prevent twist in the chain). The one other feature is that it can help with the anchor orienting as it stows.

You could go without and see if you like the set up and add one later if necessary.

https://www.mantusmarine.com/mantus-anchor-knowledgebase/swivels/#:~:text=Swivels are used to attach,the bow roller on retrieval.
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Outstanding. Thank you for the info!
 
410 Running Angle

Here is a section of video a buddy shot of us running down the lake. Likely about 2350 RPM, 20-21 kts with full down tabs. My tabs are stock (not drop fins), but those are on the list for a winter upgrade (now delayed). I think she rides nicely!!!! --->





Full video of life on Lake lanier here!! --->


Edit...Youtube flagged music as copyright infringement. Re-posted in silent mode...
 
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Thank you for the rudder packing tutorial, a little tightening and they are both dry now. Question on the rudder arm, is there supposed to be a bushing around the bolt in this photo? The bolt hole is much bigger than the bolt and there is some play in both directions. Is that right? The hole in the rudder arm in front of the bolt looks like the right size. The hole it goes through is much bigger.
Rudder arm.JPG
 
Cocktail Time said:
Thank you for the rudder packing tutorial, a little tightening and they are both dry now. Question on the rudder arm, is there supposed to be a bushing around the bolt in this photo? The bolt hole is much bigger than the bolt and there is some play in both directions. Is that right? The hole in the rudder arm in front of the bolt looks like the right size. The hole it goes through is much bigger.View attachment 87362
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I have not taken mine apart, but I believe that a bushing, metal or plastic, should be utilized for any part such as this when movement is required. The bushing helps prevent wear on the bolt and limits the 'play' in the parts. I would say that if it does not have a bushing in there to add one.
 
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