40 sedan bridge forum

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One final thought. If it winds up being an insurance claim, I would inquire about having it towed to the yard via BoatUS or SeaTow. I would think that would be covered.
 
CaptRonn said:
One final thought. If it winds up being an insurance claim, I would inquire about having it towed to the yard via BoatUS or SeaTow. I would think that would be covered.
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Yes I am a member of BoatUS and my insurance will also pay for the tow, thanks again
 
New track insert is in. Now it's clear I need new door rollers. One is corroded on pretty good. Might be a tough project.
 

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my3sons said:
Mother nature whipped up a hail storm here last week and the guestimates from the canvas guys are that in excess of 500 boats in the immediate Buffalo area are damaged.
My canvas is all original but the glass was replaced 3 years ago. Overall it was in great shape. Now not so much. 6 of the 11 panels are scratched and pitted with 4 of the panels with several holes blown right through. For right now, clear Gorilla Tape is my friend. To those of you that have recently done a full bridge replacement, no metal work, how much can I expect the cost to be? Yes some of it will be paid for by insurance, but do they prorate that based on age or does it pretty much get replaced to its previous self? TIA.
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So going back to the hail storm, I’ll throw a plug for Spectrum gel patch. Besides the canvas damage, I discovered a hole on the port side stern area. It appears that a hail ball must have hit exactly over an air void and popped the gel coat open. The void was about 1/2” diameter and 1/4” deep. I wetted the void with Unthickened epoxy then sucked It back out, thickened it up And filled the hole. I received the gel patch a few days ago. Ground down the epoxy patch a little and cleaned up the edges of the gel coat and applied the patch. After wet sanding and compounding, I can not see any evidence of the repair. I am shocked. The color match is perfect.
It’s 1994 - 2003 Arctic White A551470K

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filled with epoxy
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After the gel patch
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TotallyGross said:
Does anyone else have trouble with their boat violently yanking back and forth on the hook? Not really much current in a small little cove. We have all chain rode. It was only like 5-8 mph breeze last night. The chain violently was rocking back and forth the bow and then the stern followed. The sailboats were all pretty much unfazed. Any thoughts ?
I’ve read some boats are worse on a single hook.
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If you have a flybridge enclosure then these boats sail at anchor. Mine does the same thing while other boats are calm. Its the windage of the large superstructure and that it is aft of the centerline causing the boat to go back and forth. A anchor snubber helps mange the load on th ewindless but does nothing to control the sway.
 
my3sons said:
Exact replacements are available in white, chrome and black. I did chrome.
Search Perko 0170MSDDP1 and 0170MPODP1, that should turn up some choices.
There are 12 and 24 volt options so read the fine print, or just use your old bulbs. I did not get LED, Motors are running when they're on so I didn't care. They are festoon style lamps so you can change them to LED if you want. Or they might be available in LED ?

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Thanks Mark, Love em!
I’ve found and ordered 0170MSDDP1 (Starboard) but I can’t get the Port light to come up under Perko 0170MPODP1. Can you double check that number so I can order have a matching set.
Thanks!
 
Does anyone have any tricks on removing the filter for the holding tank?
I watched the Boogaboo video, he probably removed the filter when he was removing the old holding tank.
 
On the Reel said:
Does anyone have any tricks on removing the filter for the holding tank?
I watched the Boogaboo video, he probably removed the filter when he was removing the old holding tank.
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Skinny arms. I just did mine again last week. I unscrew the aft fitting putting my arm above the 6" exhaust hose and I unscrew the forward fitting by going under that hose then reaching back up. I also intentionally broke off one prong off the aft holder long ago. Makes it so much easier to get it in and out. The full front holder and the aft fitting/hose hold it in place just fine. Also just moderately hand tighten so that you can easily unscrew with one hand the next time.
 
Drafter said:
Looks like I get to pull my boat today. I've had a slight vibration in the port shaft for a while. Figured that I would deal with it this fall when I pulled it for a bottom job. In the last week, it's started to intensify at 3200 r.pm. (gas). I'm guessing that the cutlass bearing is finally toast. Plan to replace cutlass bearings on both sides, new dripless shaft seals plus spares, and recondition and balance the props. Haul out alone will be around $600. Can any of you guys give me an idea of what to expect to pay for prop reconditioning? Not sure if a local guy can do big nibral props and do it well, so may have them sent off. I'm assuming a couple of hours per side on the bearings. I'm guessing that I'm looking at a $2000 bill all in?
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Cool Breeze props in Osage Beach is allegedly the best around for big props.
 
Another request from you guys...
I’ve owned the boat for two years, I’ve just noticed the central vac ports and found attachments under on the beds in guest stateroom...
Where is the vac unit/filter located ?
 
On the Reel said:
Another request from you guys...
I’ve owned the boat for two years, I’ve just noticed the central vac ports and found attachments under on the beds in guest stateroom...
Where is the vac unit/filter located ?
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If you put the sleeper couch down on the port side there is an access door that is hidden behind the backrest.
 
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Thanks Pierpressure!
My boat came with a lower helm station, therefore I don’t have a sleeper.
The port couch curves and allows you lower the table to allow a full size bed.
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I was having problems getting my 3126ta 420 hp engines above 1700 rpms. Haven’t used the boat much the past 3 years and have been experiencing this problem at least the last 2 years. Pulled the aftercoolers and both were clogged similarly. Only 150 hours and 5 years since last service. Wondering if using a barnacle buster type service would have mitigated problem. I’m in South Florida
 

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ZZ13 said:
Skinny arms. I just did mine again last week. I unscrew the aft fitting putting my arm above the 6" exhaust hose and I unscrew the forward fitting by going under that hose then reaching back up. I also intentionally broke off one prong off the aft holder long ago. Makes it so much easier to get it in and out. The full front holder and the aft fitting/hose hold it in place just fine. Also just moderately hand tighten so that you can easily unscrew with one hand the next time.
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On The Reel, I added about 12" of 'extension hose' with good gaskets (to ensure no odor escapes), to both hoses and I find that really helps ease the swap of the holding tank filter.

Dave
 
Up on the flybridge, we use the under bench storage (we have the 'U' shape layout) to store life jackets. We tend to cram them in.

The life jackets always pick up a white residue. The fiberglass in the storage area always feels slightly tacky. Does anyone else have this problem? I was wondering if fiberglass paint would fix the problem?
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While the white gunk comes off with acetone and a bit of elbow grease, it would be great to solve this issue, and be able to utilize the storage space fully.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.
tks

Dave
 
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