40 sedan bridge forum

Pierpressure1 · Jun 15, 2020

ZZ13 said:
Yup. I sleep on the salon sofa in those situations. My wife sleeps through it in the master stateroom with earplugs in. I can't do that because the fact I have earplugs in keeps me awake by itself.

My wife ended up on the couch and I stuck it out in the forward berth. Guess I will have to get used to it.

Bartlett Bob · Jun 15, 2020

That is correct in forward, I did not try reverse but I will go over there today and try it. The port prop windmilled while easing into the marina under power from the starboard engine. Did not go under the boat but after hitting the log but the boat ran find under both engines for about an hour at 2100 rpms with no vibration or maybe with less vibration than before. I have a call into the Insurance company now and I am looking for repair shops in the area.

It appears the closest shop is on Pickwick lake. That is probably a good days ride on one engine and a little more than idle speed. Also wondering if I need to run both engines while underway to keep cooling water circulating to both transmissions and drip less bearings?

I appreciate your thoughts

Bartlett Bob · Jun 15, 2020

ZZ13 said:
So the coupler/shaft doesn't turn at all when in forward or reverse? Is that what correct? What did you find under the boat?

I replied to you question but I didn't hit "reply" I just hit post reply, not sure of the difference but I appreciate your help.

CaptRonn · Jun 15, 2020

Bartlett Bob said:
That is correct in forward, I did not try reverse but I will go over there today and try it. The port prop windmilled while easing into the marina under power from the starboard engine. Did not go under the boat but after hitting the log but the boat ran find under both engines for about an hour at 2100 rpms with no vibration or maybe with less vibration than before. I have a call into the Insurance company now and I am looking for repair shops in the area.

It appears the closest shop is on Pickwick lake. That is probably a good days ride on one engine and a little more than idle speed. Also wondering if I need to run both engines while underway to keep cooling water circulating to both transmissions and drip less bearings?

I appreciate your thoughts

Why not have the shop come to your boat for the initial investigation of the problem?

ZZ13 · Jun 15, 2020

Bartlett Bob said:
That is correct in forward, I did not try reverse but I will go over there today and try it. The port prop windmilled while easing into the marina under power from the starboard engine. Did not go under the boat but after hitting the log but the boat ran find under both engines for about an hour at 2100 rpms with no vibration or maybe with less vibration than before. I have a call into the Insurance company now and I am looking for repair shops in the area.

It appears the closest shop is on Pickwick lake. That is probably a good days ride on one engine and a little more than idle speed. Also wondering if I need to run both engines while underway to keep cooling water circulating to both transmissions and drip less bearings?

I appreciate your thoughts

If you have crossover cooling to both dripless then one engine will cool both. But I'd take the crossover off at the other engine when the good engine is running just to first make sure you don't have any blockage. If you don't have crossover then you'll either have to clamp down the unused shaft so it won't spin, or idle the engine to cool the dripless when it free wheels.

The crime scene · Jun 15, 2020

Bartlett Bob said:
We took a three day trip this weekend, close to 300 miles. On the way back, about an hour from home port I hit a log floating vertically in the water. The top was floating flush with the surface of the water so there was no clue until the port propeller struck it. We all looked at our wake to see what we hit and saw the telephone size log popping up and down in the wake. Everything was Ok and we all were paying particular attention to vibrations, rpms and other signals that might tell us we had an issue from the strike. Everything was fine until about 10 or 15 minutes later when there was a loud noise and then no power from the port side. We tested the starboard power and no problem there, we tested port and engine revved up but the propeller shaft did not turn so we are pretty sure the transmission or clutch has been damaged. I did look at the output shaft of the trans. to insure that we hadn't sheared a key at the hub and neither side is turning so back to the trans.

Anybody got any thoughts on this one, I think I need a new trans. but I am hoping maybe there is a shear pin somebody can direct me to to save the trans.??????????[/QUOT

Bartlett Bob said:
We took a three day trip this weekend, close to 300 miles. On the way back, about an hour from home port I hit a log floating vertically in the water. The top was floating flush with the surface of the water so there was no clue until the port propeller struck it. We all looked at our wake to see what we hit and saw the telephone size log popping up and down in the wake. Everything was Ok and we all were paying particular attention to vibrations, rpms and other signals that might tell us we had an issue from the strike. Everything was fine until about 10 or 15 minutes later when there was a loud noise and then no power from the port side. We tested the starboard power and no problem there, we tested port and engine revved up but the propeller shaft did not turn so we are pretty sure the transmission or clutch has been damaged. I did look at the output shaft of the trans. to insure that we hadn't sheared a key at the hub and neither side is turning so back to the trans.

Anybody got any thoughts on this one, I think I need a new trans. but I am hoping maybe there is a shear pin somebody can direct me to to save the trans.??????????

Holy Crap Bob. I hope it is something simple. Keep us updated.

Bartlett Bob · Jun 15, 2020

The crime scene said:
Holy Crap Bob. I hope it is something simple. Keep us updated.

Hey it happens, as a friend of mine said, that is the reason we buy insurance. It was a great trip with lots of laughs it just had a rougher ending than we wanted. Could of happened a long way from home or caused a hole in the hull so it could have been a lot worst.

Bartlett Bob · Jun 15, 2020

ZZ13 said:
If you have crossover cooling to both dripless then one engine will cool both. But I'd take the crossover off at the other engine when the good engine is running just to first make sure you don't have any blockage. If you don't have crossover then you'll either have to clamp down the unused shaft so it won't spin, or idle the engine to cool the dripless when it free wheels.

I am going over there in a few minutes to check on all of that

Plumbing Guy · Jun 15, 2020

Plumbing Guy said:
Not sure about make or cost. I’ll see if there is a manufacturer name on it and will get proper dimensions as well.

So I have an “Ultra” swim platform although I have no literature or what price the PO paid.

swimplatform-ultra.com (They even have a picture of a 400DB on their cover page)

Below are a few pics. I’m very impressed with the quality (I just took ownership 3 weeks ago so it still needs a good cleaning). It measures 42” deep from the centre line and pretty much matches the width of the boat. You can see how it is bolted on to the existing swim platform and then reinforced with its own support arms.

Plumbing Guy · Jun 15, 2020

Plumbing Guy said:
So I have an “Ultra” swim platform although I have no literature or what price the PO paid.

swimplatform-ultra.com (They even have a picture of a 400DB on their cover page)

Below are a few pics. I’m very impressed with the quality (I just took ownership 3 weeks ago so it still needs a good cleaning). It measures 42” deep from the centre line and pretty much matches the width of the boat. You can see how it is bolted on to the existing swim platform and then reinforced with its own support arms.View attachment 86549 View attachment 86550 View attachment 86551

Just realized all of the pics are upside down.

ynot · Jun 15, 2020

sorry gentleman's
to intrude on your conversation and change subject .please i need advice on changing out my all rope windlass
with stainless /rope ,what is the best out there
400 SB many thanks

Bartlett Bob · Jun 16, 2020

ZZ13 said:
If you have crossover cooling to both dripless then one engine will cool both. But I'd take the crossover off at the other engine when the good engine is running just to first make sure you don't have any blockage. If you don't have crossover then you'll either have to clamp down the unused shaft so it won't spin, or idle the engine to cool the dripless when it free wheels.

No crossover so will need to run with port engine at idle. Out put shaft of trans. does not turn in either forward or reverse. Checked linkage to insure it is shifting and it moves correctly. Repair shop is about 58 miles up river. I thought about Towboat US pulling me while I push with the starboard engine to assist. The other option is to have a friend in a pontoon boat escort me just in case I have issues with the starboard engine, unlikely but possible. Any thoughts or recommendations?

ZZ13 · Jun 16, 2020

Bartlett Bob said:
No crossover so will need to run with port engine at idle. Out put shaft of trans. does not turn in either forward or reverse. Checked linkage to insure it is shifting and it moves correctly. Repair shop is about 58 miles up river. I thought about Towboat US pulling me while I push with the starboard engine to assist. The other option is to have a friend in a pontoon boat escort me just in case I have issues with the starboard engine, unlikely but possible. Any thoughts or recommendations?

Well. If you run yourself and you don't want to run the port engine you could pretty easily T into the starboard line and run a line to the port dripless.

ZZ13 · Jun 16, 2020

Did some more door track work this morning. I finished building up the track to get ready to put the new track cover over top. Interesting the epoxy putty did not stick to the aluminum at all. So after it cured it just became a removable custom fill strip. So I turned it over and ran a bead of superglue across it then set it back on the track. That glued it down good. Then I filed it as perfectly level and to the correct width as I could. The inside to outside photo shows the best how level it is. I'll let it cure 24 hours before I put the track on.

Bartlett Bob · Jun 16, 2020

ZZ13 said:
Well. If you run yourself and you don't want to run the port engine you could pretty easily T into the starboard line and run a line to the port dripless.

Interesting idea. Any issues with leaving the two tied together after the repair is complete or do you think I should put a valve in the cross connection and only turn it on in the event of needing to run with one motor?

CaptRonn · Jun 16, 2020

Bartlett Bob said:
No crossover so will need to run with port engine at idle. Out put shaft of trans. does not turn in either forward or reverse. Checked linkage to insure it is shifting and it moves correctly. Repair shop is about 58 miles up river. I thought about Towboat US pulling me while I push with the starboard engine to assist. The other option is to have a friend in a pontoon boat escort me just in case I have issues with the starboard engine, unlikely but possible. Any thoughts or recommendations?

Before doing that long of a run on one engine I would have the shop come to the boat. If it’s a transmission issue, the trans can be removed at the slip.

Bartlett Bob · Jun 16, 2020

CaptRonn said:
Before doing that long of a run on one engine I would have the shop come to the boat. If it’s a transmission issue, the trans can be removed at the slip.

Once I hear form the insurance company on the issue, I will ask the shop about that. I will still need to have it hauled out as I am unsure of conditions below water and do not want to sign off on the insurance claim with out a thorough out of water inspection. Did not have any vibration prior to the trans quiting but would still want to know

ZZ13 · Jun 16, 2020

Bartlett Bob said:
Interesting idea. Any issues with leaving the two tied together after the repair is complete or do you think I should put a valve in the cross connection and only turn it on in the event of needing to run with one motor?

You could make it permanent. I think I remember some posts on her where others have done that. In my case it was there from the factory and is nothing more than a second hose barb on each shaft seal, with a hose running between those two hose barbs. It's the bottom hose in each picture. The top hose is the feed from the engine's gear oil cooler.

Bartlett Bob · Jun 16, 2020

ZZ13 said:
You could make it permanent. I think I remember some posts on her where others have done that. In my case it was there from the factory and is nothing more than a second hose barb on each shaft seal, with a hose running between those two hose barbs. It's the bottom hose in each picture. The top hose is the feed from the engine's gear oil cooler.

Rather than add a hose barb to the shaft seal I would probably use the "T" idea and just T into the hose above the shaft seal on each side and cross connect with a hose. Anybody see an issue with this, I hate to start re-engineering down there. This is the caution that comes with age and a few not so good ideas.

Bartlett Bob · Jun 16, 2020

Bartlett Bob said:
Rather than add a hose barb to the shaft seal I would probably use the "T" idea and just T into the hose above the shaft seal on each side and cross connect with a hose. Anybody see an issue with this, I hate to start re-engineering down there. This is the caution that comes with age and a few not so good ideas.

ZZ13 and CaptRonn I forgot to say thanks for the assistance guys so I will do that now,

Is there a minimum pressure or CFM that the drip less needs or is it just a little pressure and as long as cool water is flowing it is ok?

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