Pre-owned boat with very low hours: what specifically should i check?

Hi all - recently purchased an '05 185 sport. It's in fantastic condition and only has 95 hours on it (original engine, it's the 4.3). The original owner kept in indoors and appears to have maintained it well, and the Marina who sold it to me on consignment says they did a very thorough inspection of everything before they sell. The exterior and interior look great, bottom of hull looks clean, and the engine looks clean. No hull cracking or obvious repair spots, etc.

But I'd like to know, given how low this boat's hours are relative to its age, what are the things I should be looking for myself to avoid any issues on the water? Both generally, and specifically since this boat has such low hours. I've got two little kids so always better safe than sorry. First time boat-owner so very new to all this. We've taken it out a few times now and aside from the typical new-boater-trailer backup challenges, all good so far.

A few things I"m aware of below. What am i missing?

-Battery age/condition
-hull/fiberglass condition
-engine belts & hoses
-lower portion of outdrive unit
-trailer health

Speaking of trailer health, the previous owner installed some sort of ... was it a break actuator ... inside the trailer tongue, if i understood the salesperson correctly? He showed me how to disengage it in case i need to do something like reverse up a hill. Is this normal / anything i need to be aware of?

I would be worried about the rubber parts. Gaskets, seals, hoses etc. There also is a rubber piece between the prop shaft and the prop. I would have that checked also.

Low hours on a boat are not always good. This boat has averaged 6.3 hours per year for it's life. I would bet there are years with no hours on it where it simply sat.

Thanks you.

That was my thought too. These hours are TOO low. I wonder if the guy finally sold it because it sat for the last couple of years .

Obviously change all the fluids in the boat, and make sure the battery is new. Would be a good time to have the bellows Checked/ replaced. After that, just start using it and keep a list of odd noises, drips, etc. and deal with them one by one.
Brake actuator would mean your have trailer brakes. Those can be checked and serviced as needed.
Good luck. Be sure to take some boater safety courses if this is your first boat.

pdxsearay said:

Speaking of trailer health, the previous owner installed some sort of ... was it a break actuator ... inside the trailer tongue, if i understood the salesperson correctly? He showed me how to disengage it in case i need to do something like reverse up a hill. Is this normal / anything i need to be aware of?

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The trailer brake actuator isn't a bad thing, most heavier trailers have them. Sometimes they are actuated electrically from the towing vehicle.
In your case, it sounds like the PO (or it already had) a hydraulically actuated brake system. When you step on your brakes, the momentum/pressure from the trailer activates brakes that are installed on the trailer. I reduces the brake strain on your tow vehicle. The reason you need to be able to disengage when backing up hill, is that the brakes on the trailer would be activating as you are trying to back up.

The main concern I would have, is that they are another maintenance item that you need to take care of. If possible, give the brake pads/wheels a good fresh water rinse after you get home (after they've cooled off), especially if you dunk your boat in salt water. Also, inspect the pads and overall system annually. A good thing to do before storing for the winter.

Welcome aboard!

A thing to consider is that rubber parts will age regardless of how many engine hours are on them. This means the hoses, belts, outdrive bellows etc. These should all be inspected and consider replacing them based on age alone.

In an outdrive boat there is a part that connects the engine to the driveshaft for the outdrive unit. It's called the engine coupler, is made largely of rubber, and has a life span. Its purpose is to have a flexible linkage between the engine and the drive shaft so if there is a major shock the coupler will shear, thereby protecting the engine. Once the coupler fails (shears) you'll have no propulsion as the engine can't transmit power to the drive. Since its at the back of the engine against the transom, the only way to replace a coupler is to pull the engine from the boat. A coupler is $200-$400, plus labor for a total repair of roughly $1500. Couplers usually fail without warning and can happen at idle speed. Telltale signs of an failing engine coupler are small bits of black rubber in the engine compartment after running the engine.

R-and-R said:

The trailer brake actuator isn't a bad thing, most heavier trailers have them. Sometimes they are actuated electrically from the towing vehicle.
In your case, it sounds like the PO (or it already had) a hydraulically actuated brake system. When you step on your brakes, the momentum/pressure from the trailer activates brakes that are installed on the trailer. I reduces the brake strain on your tow vehicle. The reason you need to be able to disengage when backing up hill, is that the brakes on the trailer would be activating as you are trying to back up.

The main concern I would have, is that they are another maintenance item that you need to take care of. If possible, give the brake pads/wheels a good fresh water rinse after you get home (after they've cooled off), especially if you dunk your boat in salt water. Also, inspect the pads and overall system annually. A good thing to do before storing for the winter.

Welcome aboard!

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Thanks for the info. The salesperson told me that the owner replaced the disc brakes on the trailer's wheels with the brake located inside the tongue. Is this what you are referring to in terms of being activated or are you talkign about wheel-based disc brakes?

b_arrington said:

A thing to consider is that rubber parts will age regardless of how many engine hours are on them. This means the hoses, belts, outdrive bellows etc. These should all be inspected and consider replacing them based on age alone.

In an outdrive boat there is a part that connects the engine to the driveshaft for the outdrive unit. It's called the engine coupler, is made largely of rubber, and has a life span. Its purpose is to have a flexible linkage between the engine and the drive shaft so if there is a major shock the coupler will shear, thereby protecting the engine. Once the coupler fails (shears) you'll have no propulsion as the engine can't transmit power to the drive. Since its at the back of the engine against the transom, the only way to replace a coupler is to pull the engine from the boat. A coupler is $200-$400, plus labor for a total repair of roughly $1500. Couplers usually fail without warning and can happen at idle speed. Telltale signs of an failing engine coupler are small bits of black rubber in the engine compartment after running the engine.

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Thank you. I'll pay special attention to looking for those bits of rubber in the engine compartment.

pdxsearay said:

Thanks for the info. The salesperson told me that the owner replaced the disc brakes on the trailer's wheels with the brake located inside the tongue. Is this what you are referring to in terms of being activated or are you talkign about wheel-based disc brakes?

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Sounds like you have what's called surge brakes. As you brake the vehicle, the trailer "surges" against the tongue and activates the trailer brakes via hydraulic pressure. Simpler in that you don't need any signals or a brake controller from the vehicle to the trailer; it's all based on the relative motion of the trailer to the vehicle. The behavior is not as refined or controlled as disc brakes though.

b_arrington said:

Sounds like you have what's called surge brakes. As you brake the vehicle, the trailer "surges" against the tongue and activates the trailer brakes via hydraulic pressure. Simpler in that you don't need any signals or a brake controller from the vehicle to the trailer; it's all based on the relative motion of the trailer to the vehicle. The behavior is not as refined or controlled as disc brakes though.

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Yup!!