40 sedan bridge forum

Yes - I contacted them and they are definitely no longer available. Took a recommendation from scooper321 and bought a new Standard Horizon unit. We’ll simply call it step 1 in my electronics upgrade

Glad to have you join us down the electronics upgrade rabbit hole!
 
Pull them and paint them. They're pricey. I added green and red purpose made LED's to mine. Crazy bright now.

If you do want to paint them and then replace the bulbs, this is what I used for the LED upgrade. I specifically chose bulbs with 360 degree illumination (in case the festoon spins due to boat vibration) and I bought the ones with the red and green lenses even though these LED's are inside the housings that have colored lenses, too. They are plenty bright.

https://store.marinebeam.com/30-led-42mm-cone-end-festoon-mini-max-fs-42-30c/
 
I've read back to the early posts between Tigger, Bill, Drafter and others about stereo upgrades. Now I'm trying to build on that by following the model of Drafter (I think?) and adding a second 10" subwoofer in a box in the storage area under the cockpit/helm steps. It should be a pretty straight-forward wiring job, because access to the existing speaker wiring is on the other side of the wall, under the sofa.

I'm adding a new amp to drive both the new subwoofer and the one on the bridge. Each will have their own output channel (bridged). But the amp input will be a common source - the subwoofer output of my Fusion head unit. The existing Clarion amp will get a lighter load. It will continue to drive the four cockpit speakers (in parallel pairs) and I'll have it drive the cabin speakers (parallel pairs, too).

So the purpose for this post is to ask a simple question of those of you that have added or replaced amps. Where did you get the amp power? I can read the boat manual, look at the schematics, climb around my boat and in the bilge and figure it all out. But I'm optimistic you guys can spare me all of that. I'd rather not route wires directly to the batteries, so I'm wondering if there's a power distribution box somewhere in the bilge or near the electrical panel that I can access? I have no trouble pulling wire, splicing, etc. I just want to quickly know where I can grab a good power source that is easy to tap into, and also where I can pick up the closest ground.

Thanks,
Steve
Your existing amp power comes from the Electronics switch on your main power panel. You could check current draw with everything on and see if you can just add to that run. Or tap into the input side of 12v breakers and fuse the amp accordingly.
 
Your existing amp power comes from the Electronics switch on your main power panel. You could check current draw with everything on and see if you can just add to that run. Or tap into the input side of 12v breakers and fuse the amp accordingly.

Thanks. I'l look at the currents. I don't think I can just take the output of the Electronics breaker. But I can use that as the source for the blue (REMOTE) line to turn on the amp. The power itself probably needs to come from the input side of those breakers, but with a hefty gauge wire.
 
Thanks. I'l look at the currents. I don't think I can just take the output of the Electronics breaker. But I can use that as the source for the blue (REMOTE) line to turn on the amp. The power itself probably needs to come from the input side of those breakers, but with a hefty gauge wire.
Usually you connect the remote line to the turn on output from the head unit. But you probably know that.
 
I do. But thanks! I have options!
I used the remote turn on the amp from My new fusion head unit. The fusion head unit comes off my Entertainment breaker for power. However my JL audio 1000W amp required an 80amp fuse I believe.
I ran the wire down to the batteries directly to a battery bank.
 
I ran my power cables down to the batteries. I connected two amps to each set of batteries. I connected it to a distribution block under the couch. I ran the remote wire from the back of the radio and split it to all four amps.

I completed a few projects on the new boat! I added the Garmin 8612 to my new Fusion Apollo radio. I added 4 SeaBlaze lights and I would like to add lights on the sides this fall. I added 5 AGM 31 series batteries with a new dual pro 15 am/bank Professional Series 3 bank charger. I took the ice maker out to add either a sub or just keep it for space. What did you guys do with the water line from the ice maker? I was thinking about using 5200 to stop the water. Next project - I am still debating on SeaDeck vs. Carpet vs. Aqua Marine - Thoughts?
 

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I ran my power cables down to the batteries. I connected two amps to each set of batteries. I connected it to a distribution block under the couch. I ran the remote wire from the back of the radio and split it to all four amps.

I completed a few projects on the new boat! I added the Garmin 8612 to my new Fusion Apollo radio. I added 4 SeaBlaze lights and I would like to add lights on the sides this fall. I added 5 AGM 31 series batteries with a new dual pro 15 am/bank Professional Series 3 bank charger. I took the ice maker out to add either a sub or just keep it for space. What did you guys do with the water line from the ice maker? I was thinking about using 5200 to stop the water. Next project - I am still debating on SeaDeck vs. Carpet vs. Aqua Marine - Thoughts?
My boat has a turn off valve for the ice maker water right next to the spigot in the engine room
 
Can anyone recommend a transport in the Southeast? Preferably in North or South Carolina.
I’m looking to move mine to the coast.
 
I would not run your amps through the power panel. The stock Clarion was a pretty weak amp. If you're going to add one or more, I would wire it directly to a battery. I added a 2nd battery in parallel to the port side starting battery similar to the 2nd battery for the house dc on the starboard side. Amps require some pretty chunky power wire. More than what the boat offers in stock form. I ran 2 gauge to a splitter, with 4 ga from that to the multilple amps. There is a 65 amp fuse within 12-18" from the battery. I have (2) 800 watt RMS, and (1) 400 watt RMS, for a total of 2000 watts. The amp audio signals daisy chain from one amp to the next. The amps power on with the head unit via the blue remote lead from the head unit. I have a hole in my fuel sender plate that feeds pretty easily to the battery bank below. The first pic is when I had (2) amps, the 2nd, I replaced the splitters and added a third amp. The Overdrive unit in the 2nd pic boosts the audio signal to the amps, and is also powered by the amp turn on lead. I probably did not need that component, but figured splitting the signal to multiple amps might degrade the signal.
 

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I would not run your amps through the power panel. The stock Clarion was a pretty weak amp. If you're going to add one or more, I would wire it directly to a battery. I added a 2nd battery in parallel to the port side starting battery similar to the 2nd battery for the house dc on the starboard side. Amps require some pretty chunky power wire. More than what the boat offers in stock form. I ran 2 gauge to a splitter, with 4 ga from that to the multilple amps. There is a 65 amp fuse within 12-18" from the battery. I have (2) 800 watt RMS, and (1) 400 watt RMS, for a total of 2000 watts. The amp audio signals daisy chain from one amp to the next. The amps power on with the head unit via the blue remote lead from the head unit. I have a hole in my fuel sender plate that feeds pretty easily to the battery bank below. The first pic is when I had (2) amps, the 2nd, I replaced the splitters and added a third amp. The Overdrive unit in the 2nd pic boosts the audio signal to the amps, and is also powered by the amp turn on lead. I probably did not need that component, but figured splitting the signal to multiple amps might degrade the signal.

Thanks! I've done some more thinking about this and I agree. My plan is to take the new amp directly to the battery. Because I plan to keep the original Clarion amp in service, I'm not messing with its' power at all. Instead, I just need to run a new 4 AWG from the battery to the new amp. The Remote On will come from the head unit, just like the Clarion does. Then it's just a matter of fishing a few RCA's around.

So where do you have the amp and splitter actually located in those pics? Is that under the sofa? I don't recognize that panel to which they are mounted. And how did you physically route the new power cable from the batteries to the splitter? Did you go up through the battery switch cabinet or up through the ice maker/storage cabinet directly (not sure if that's possible or not)?
 
Thanks! I've done some more thinking about this and I agree. My plan is to take the new amp directly to the battery. Because I plan to keep the original Clarion amp in service, I'm not messing with its' power at all. Instead, I just need to run a new 4 AWG from the battery to the new amp. The Remote On will come from the head unit, just like the Clarion does. Then it's just a matter of fishing a few RCA's around.

So where do you have the amp and splitter actually located in those pics? Is that under the sofa? I don't recognize that panel to which they are mounted. And how did you physically route the new power cable from the batteries to the splitter? Did you go up through the battery switch cabinet or up through the ice maker/storage cabinet directly (not sure if that's possible or not)?
Yes, the amps and splitter are under the port side sofa. The existing Clarion amp is there too. You have a round plastic access lid under that sofa to reach the fuel tank sender on the port side. My battery cables go through that lid directly into the engine room, and to the battery bank on the port side. It does not really matter how you get there. You could come up through the under stair area as well if your ice maker is already removed. My fuel sender access lid had already been modified to route a satellite TV system cable by a previous owner, so I followed that route.
 

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Yes, the amps and splitter are under the port side sofa. The existing Clarion amp is there too. You have a round plastic access lid under that sofa to reach the fuel tank sender on the port side. My battery cables go through that lid directly into the engine room, and to the battery bank on the port side. It does not really matter how you get there. You could come up through the under stair area as well if your ice maker is already removed. My fuel sender access lid had already been modified to route a satellite TV system cable by a previous owner, so I followed that route.

Great, thanks. I'll have to see what I have to work with once I remove the sofa. If I can't drop straight down like you did, I know I can go through the wall to the ice maker/storage and then over to the battery swtich area and down. I think that's how TotallyGross did it. Good stuff!
 
Hello Gents
I joined this forum 6 months ago but the boat was wrapped the day after I bought it so I’ve never been able to post a good pic. She was launched and sea trialed today in Lake Simcoe, Ontario and with the exception of a wonky bow thruster battery, passed all tests with flying colours. What a machine! I now understand why so many believe the 400 DB is one of the greatest boats Sea Ray ever made. Here she is...I’m now officially part of the club!
 

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Hello everybody, I am looking to put new Infinity carpet in the boat. Does anyone know a reliable installer in the Baltimore, Annapolis area? Thanks, Greg
 
It looks like that's what I may have to do. Not a worry. My canvas guy also did my Infinity carpet, so this would be pretty easy for him, too... Thanks!
Scooper, who did your Infinity carpet for you? Are you happy with it? Thanks, Greg
 
Scooper, who did your Infinity carpet for you? Are you happy with it? Thanks, Greg

Welcome, Greg!

I used Charm City Marine Canvas. They are near to you, too - located at the Anchorage Marina in Baltimore. They did an excellent job and yes, we love it. It's been durable, easy to clean, not hot on the feet and also provides cushion. We like that it's removable during the off season, too. Call Marvin at Charm City and discuss it with him. He also did our bridge canvas and canvas extension. And the canvas on our previous boat (320DA). Great shop, great guy, and we are obviously repeat customers!
 
Welcome, Greg!

I used Charm City Marine Canvas. They are near to you, too - located at the Anchorage Marina in Baltimore. They did an excellent job and yes, we love it. It's been durable, easy to clean, not hot on the feet and also provides cushion. We like that it's removable during the off season, too. Call Marvin at Charm City and discuss it with him. He also did our bridge canvas and canvas extension. And the canvas on our previous boat (320DA). Great shop, great guy, and we are obviously repeat customers!
Scooper, thanks for the name. I did see your bridge and it looked great. Especially where you came back farther to the aft. We may do a hard top next year. We are up in Hopkins creek where your boat was. Also, did you find your clips for the curtains at Recmar? Greg
 
I posted earlier about transporters, has anyone had any experience in removing flybridge?
Looks like it my need to be removed.
 

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