Searay 340 Solar installation complete

Thought I would share my Solar installation with everyone. this will be my third install on 3 different boats.

I opted for 4x ALLPowers 100w flexible panels using the Sunpower cell units (dont go for the cheaper ones) .These have the highest efficiency. This was coupled with an EPEver MPPT 40amp charge controller with remote viewing monitor.

As the photos show, the panels were mounted to the camper top. I had 2" Velcro sewn in to the Bimini, the opposing velcro strips were stuck to the underside of the panels after roughing the plastic up for better grip. I also added were canvas small wind deflectors to cover the leading edge, this stops wind getting under the panels and trying to lift them, Eye holes were added to these also so the panels also could be tied in. (see photos)

The panels were wired in two pairs of series to two pairs of Parallel joined with two Y connectors to create a single +/- feed. After a lot of research using the advanced MPPT controllers, this wiring allows for optimum tracking across all panels. On a cloudy day I was pulling 9amps on two fully charged batteries after charged by the house charger. House chargers are not as good as charging as you may think, when the house shuts off the solar charger continues to optimize the batteries. I contacted the battery supplier to get the optimum settings also and will be entering these at the weekend under user defined battery set up.

The expected peak voltage will be around 40 volts and amps once converted through the MPPT controller at peak efficiency will be over 30amps.

For batteries I am using 4 x 6v batteries wired in series/Parallel, these give the best longevity I have found and load handling. Make sure you put all charging wires on the leading positive and last in the chain negative, if you dont do this the charge will not flow through the batteries to charge as if one whole battery.

The cable from the solar panels to the charge controller was 10 gauge to handle up to 40amps, and the cable from the charge controller to the batteries was 8AWG. An inline breaker was put in line between controller and battery bank rated at 40amp.

Any questions always happy to answer.

Nice addition!!

Looks really good. You said you have done this before. How have the flexible panels held up over time? I know folks you have used flexible on sailboats, but there the amount of flexing is obviously lower due to lower air speed moving across the panel surface.

Henry Boyd said:

Looks really good. You said you have done this before. How have the flexible panels held up over time? I know folks you have used flexible on sailboats, but there the amount of flexing is obviously lower due to lower air speed moving across the panel surface.

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first ones lasted 6 months but this was back when flexible first came out. You can expect to get 5 years out of modern panels, just dont go cheap. I am in Canada and these panels were $150CAD from amazon, but looks like out of stock for now though here is the product http://www.allpowers.net/index.php?ac=article&at=read&did=84

Is the TRIRON4210 installed in the bilge? Is that ignition protected? The manual mentions risk of explosion if the battery gasses accumulate in an enclosed space, so I would assume the controller would also ignite gas fumes, right? Or, is that not the bilge, so not a problem??

Todd320 said:

Is the TRIRON4210 installed in the bilge? Is that ignition protected? The manual mentions risk of explosion if the battery gasses accumulate in an enclosed space, so I would assume the controller would also ignite gas fumes, right? Or, is that not the bilge, so not a problem??

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when they say enclosed they mean not in a sealed box with the controller. The controller is away from batteries and follow same due diligence with any electrical items in the bilge. Your engines could ignite battery gas in the same way or starting a genie etc etc if it was that sensitive.

The main panel for the boat is in the bilge also.

Hydrogen is not toxic, but at high concentrations is a highly explosive gas. The 100% LEL concentration for hydrogen is 4.0% by volume. At this concentration, all it takes is a source of ignition to cause an explosion. Sparking from a battery terminal as it is connected or disconnected from the charging system is more than adequate as a source of ignition energy. That’s why lead acid batteries should only be charged in well ventilated areas.

So whether its a charge controller or simply any other electrical device in the bilge there are risks. so always maintain your batteries.

HallOfDreams said:

when they say enclosed they mean not in a sealed box with the controller. The controller is away from batteries and follow same due diligence with any electrical items in the bilge. Your engines could ignite battery gas in the same way or starting a genie etc etc if it was that sensitive.

The main panel for the boat is in the bilge also.

Hydrogen is not toxic, but at high concentrations is a highly explosive gas. The 100% LEL concentration for hydrogen is 4.0% by volume. At this concentration, all it takes is a source of ignition to cause an explosion. Sparking from a battery terminal as it is connected or disconnected from the charging system is more than adequate as a source of ignition energy. That’s why lead acid batteries should only be charged in well ventilated areas.

So whether its a charge controller or simply any other electrical device in the bilge there are risks. so always maintain your batteries.

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Was not really thinking about Hydrogen from the batteries getting ignited, was more concerned that the 4210, if not ignition protected, could ignite gas fumes in the engine. You are fueling, gas fumes collect in bilge (for some reason), you turn on the blowers, which are ignition protected, it gets the fumes out without igniting them, all good (assuming their is no leak or other source of the fumes). If the 4210 turns on in the same situation, and it is not ignition protected...? I just don’t see any documentation stating it is ignition protected. Of course, I don’t know these devices at all, and I’m a bit paranoid about it, so grain of salt...

Todd320 said:

Was not really thinking about Hydrogen from the batteries getting ignited, was more concerned that the 4210, if not ignition protected, could ignite gas fumes in the engine. You are fueling, gas fumes collect in bilge (for some reason), you turn on the blowers, which are ignition protected, it gets the fumes out without igniting them, all good (assuming their is no leak or other source of the fumes). If the 4210 turns on in the same situation, and it is not ignition protected...? I just don’t see any documentation stating it is ignition protected. Of course, I don’t know these devices at all, and I’m a bit paranoid about it, so grain of salt...

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I am in agreement with this, if it is not explicitly stated to be ignition protected then it has no place being in the engine compartment and should be relocated for safety. I would also be concerned if it was not completely waterproof being down there too.

-Kevin

KevinC said:

I am in agreement with this, if it is not explicitly stated to be ignition protected then it has no place being in the engine compartment and should be relocated for safety. I would also be concerned if it was not completely waterproof being down there too.

-Kevin

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You are aware the main breaker panel is located in the bilge? And why we have blowers. There are also two DC pumps that are prone to spark as they are driven by carbon brushes, same too the alternators. But the important thing is if doing your own install you can put the controller wherever you feel Most comfortable

HallOfDreams said:

You are aware the main breaker panel is located in the bilge? And why we have blowers. There are also two DC pumps that are prone to spark as they are driven by carbon brushes, same too the alternators. But the important thing is if doing your own install you can put the controller wherever you feel Most comfortable

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Yes, I am and they are ignition protected. I think your install is very nice and a great write up. While I have no idea about the specs of the unit installed i am just pointing out that anything installed in a gas powered engine compartment should be ignition protected and preferably water resistant. Its just a matter of safety and there is way too much bad info on the internet.

-Kevin

HallOfDreams said:

You are aware the main breaker panel is located in the bilge? And why we have blowers. There are also two DC pumps that are prone to spark as they are driven by carbon brushes, same too the alternators. But the important thing is if doing your own install you can put the controller wherever you feel Most comfortable

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That breaker panel and almost every other electrical device in the bilge is required by the Coast Guard to be ignition protected (33 CFR 183.410). Alternators? Apparently they meet SAEJ1171 ignition protection.
I’m guessing the DC pumps you mentioned do as well.

for any others that may read this thread, here are the relevant pieces of information I could find:

“...required by United States Coast Guard regulation 33 CFR 183.410. The American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC) defines what ignition protection is and where ignition protected devices are required on board. This article offers a summary of ignition protection. For additional detail, see ABYC standard E-11.4.15 or E-11.5.3.”
From ABYC,
11.4.15 Ignition protection - The design and construction of a device such that under design operating conditions:
a. it will not ignite a flammable hydrocarbon mixture surrounding the device when an ignition source causes an internal explosion, or
b. it is incapable of releasing sufficient electrical or thermal energy to ignite a hydrocarbon mixture, or
c. the source of ignition is hermetically sealed.
NOTES:
1. A flammable hydrocarbon mixture is a mixture of gasoline and air, CNG and air, or propane (LPG) and air between the lower explosive limit (LEL) and upper explosive limit (UEL).
2. It is not intended to require such devices to be "explosion proof" as that term is defined in the National Electrical Code of the NFPA pertaining to shore systems.
3. It is intended that the protection provided be generally equivalent to that of wiring permitted by this standard wherein a definite short or break would be necessary to produce an open spark.
4. Devices that are "explosion proof" are considered to be ignition protected when installed with the appropriate fittings to maintain their "explosion proof" integrity.
5. It is not intended to require such devices to be "intrinsically safe" per Article 504 of the National Electrical Code of the NFPA.
6. Devices that are "intrinsically safe" are considered to be ignition protected.
7. Test standards to determine ignition protection include SAE J1171, External Ignition Protection of Marine Electrical Devices, and UL 1500, Ignition Protection Test For Marine Products, and the electrical system requirements for boats in Title 33 CFR 183.410(a).

KevinC said:

Yes, I am and they are ignition protected. I think your install is very nice and a great write up. While I have no idea about the specs of the unit installed i am just pointing out that anything installed in a gas powered engine compartment should be ignition protected and preferably water resistant. Its just a matter of safety and there is way too much bad info on the internet.

-Kevin

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Glad you like the install and hope I have inspired others.

So after all the concern of where the controller was mounted I asked the manufacturer directly. here is the reply from EpEver

Your controller is mounted inside your boats engine room is OK, but you need ensure a minimum clearance of 150mm from the upper and lower edges of the controller.

It's better choice to install your controller in a engine room than install it in a small box.

hope that clears up that debate and everyone I hope enjoyed my write up and maybe inspired to do their own project