40 sedan bridge forum

Not yet. We've got a few places around our lake that can do it. I've got a guy willing to pull it this afternoon, which is great being 2 weeks out from Memorial Day. Just wondering what I should expect cost wise.

Hard to say not knowing all the variables. The guy doing it should know.

Personally I would be wary of someone who won't give me an answer until the boat is already out of the water. At that point he's got you. If time is of the essence and you are willing to pay the premium to get it done, that's a personal decision.

For me, I would never allow anyone to touch my boat without a written estimate. I've seen too many owners get burned expecting something reasonable only to get handed an enormous bill.

YMMV.
 
Looks like I get to pull my boat today. I've had a slight vibration in the port shaft for a while. Figured that I would deal with it this fall when I pulled it for a bottom job. In the last week, it's started to intensify at 3200 r.pm. (gas). I'm guessing that the cutlass bearing is finally toast. Plan to replace cutlass bearings on both sides, new dripless shaft seals plus spares, and recondition and balance the props. Haul out alone will be around $600. Can any of you guys give me an idea of what to expect to pay for prop reconditioning? Not sure if a local guy can do big nibral props and do it well, so may have them sent off. I'm assuming a couple of hours per side on the bearings. I'm guessing that I'm looking at a $2000 bill all in?

Someone posted back in post #4623 that it cost about $2400 to have new dripless shaft seals installed.
I paid $750 for having my props tuned and balanced at PropScan the last time it was done about 4 years ago. (just the prop work, I pull them)
I paid a little under $200 for both cutlass bearings when I changed them 2 years ago. I had to buy the tool though, that cost around $400. Someone here mentioned they paid about $1200 to have that work done.
 
I just learned that my new boat does not have autopilot. I would’ve thought that a boat of this size would come automatically with autopilot. How difficult is it to install?

I am working on this project now. You will need three wire runs from the bridge: 1. Fluxgate Compass mounted in the second stateroom. 2. Rudder indicator in the bilge. 3. Power for hydraulic pump.

I did the three wire runs with one other person in about 2.5 hours. I am having the marina connect the hydraulic pump and rudder indicator as access does not look easy and I am guessing there is a trick to reaching the necessary lines.

I will be happy to provide an update once I get a quote.
 
I did a search and didn’t see this answered. Has anyone repacked their cabin slider door curtain AND replaced the little tabs that slide in the top rail and hold the curtain up? Thinking about refreshing that curtain (and the others) and need a source for tabs that will slide in the curtain rails. I’d rather not reuse the original ones as I suspect they are quite brittle by now.
 
I am in the middle of re-bedding my portholes and have a question for those that have already done this. Did you reuse the screws and flat metal nuts? It looks like sea ray used longer screws and cut them down once installed. The threads on my screws are all buggered up and was considering going with new screws and cutting with Dremel once installed.
 
I am in the middle of re-bedding my portholes and have a question for those that have already done this. Did you reuse the screws and flat metal nuts? It looks like sea ray used longer screws and cut them down once installed. The threads on my screws are all buggered up and was considering going with new screws and cutting with Dremel once installed.
I ended up going with longer screws and cutting them once installed with a dremmel. Glad to have this job behind me.
 
Hi Guys

I've now read through all of the posts in this forum twice through the winter and will finally get to tackle some projects now that it looks like marinas in Ontario will be opening up again. Thanks to all of you regular contributors for sharing your experience and stories. This is the greatest resource a guy that owns a 400DB could have. My question today - I've seen multiple references to Frank Webster's guide to fuel management and a number of you have included links to it in your posts but when I click on the links, Club Sea Ray says I don't have permission to view. Any thoughts as to why?
Cheers
Jon
 
Hi Guys

I've now read through all of the posts in this forum twice through the winter and will finally get to tackle some projects now that it looks like marinas in Ontario will be opening up again. Thanks to all of you regular contributors for sharing your experience and stories. This is the greatest resource a guy that owns a 400DB could have. My question today - I've seen multiple references to Frank Webster's guide to fuel management and a number of you have included links to it in your posts but when I click on the links, Club Sea Ray says I don't have permission to view. Any thoughts as to why?
Cheers
Jon

Because a few places on CSR are restricted to paying members. I believe you need to be a silver member or higher to access those. $25 is a pittance when compared to the value one receives from this thread alone, much less the entire forum!
 
One of my fresh water Shurflo pump has failed, after removing, I found a bad relay for the pressure switch.
To remove the pump I had to drain the fresh water tank, are the lines used for the plumbing pex pipe?
I want to install a water shut off valve to each pump.
 
One of my fresh water Shurflo pump has failed, after removing, I found a bad relay for the pressure switch.
To remove the pump I had to drain the fresh water tank, are the lines used for the plumbing pex pipe?
I want to install a water shut off valve to each pump.
The plumbing lines are pex pipe but beware that the sizes are metric. Many boat manufacturers, including Sea Ray, use metric pex pipe in their boats. Sizes are 15 and 22 mm as opposed to 1/2” and 3/4” that are used in residential construction.
 
Thanks!
Where can I purchase the crimp rings?
Will I need to purchase a metric crimping tool?
I don’t recommend a crimp system for a boat. In a crimp system, the fitting inserts into the pipe thereby reducing the flow rate of the system. Not a big deal when you’re hooked up to city water, but you could notice a difference when working off your pumps. Check out “Seatech” or “Whale” fittings online or at your local marine store. They don’t affect flow and they have the added benefit of being easily removed and re-used if needed.
Jon
 
Because a few places on CSR are restricted to paying members. I believe you need to be a silver member or higher to access those. $25 is a pittance when compared to the value one receives from this thread alone, much less the entire forum!
Thanks Steve...I always thought that the “sponsors” were for companies looking to sell products and services through the site. Regardless, I am now a “sponsor” and couldn’t agree more about the value of the site! Safe boating!
 
It would be nice if Sharkbite did metric sizing. Any similar slip fit systems out there for the marine industry?
 
Well it's a little late to tell you now but no need to drain tank to change a pump. The screw on fitting to the pump inlet is 1/2". Just get a 1/2" plug from the hardware store and screw it onto the removed fitting. I keep two of the plugs on board.

Also I buy SeaTech fittings for the 15mm and 22mm lines from freshwatersystems.com. I have spares onboard of just about every fitting size.
 
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Before I go and do the port curved window, anyone like this? Anyone think it's hideous?

Took patience to make the curve without any creases. But we did it.
 
I could get used to it. Just very different from my black shade. Does it keep heat out, can you see inside at night when the lights are on?

Are those turn buttons for canvas or something else across your deck?
 

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