Late 90's 270 Sundancer Thread

Been playing with my "new boat". The internet pictures show me this picture. Notice coming out the bottom of the sewage tank the T is level with the bottom before going to the macerator.

upload_2020-5-12_8-34-43.png


I have this (bilge is much cleaner now - this is from the purchase):
upload_2020-5-12_8-38-33.png


will this cause any problems? what does that 3 way valve do and what what way does the handle need to go?
 
Where do the hoses attached to the valve go/come from?

My guess is that since you have a big block engine with a B3 the valve may be someone's attempt at adding a fresh water flush to the raw water cooling. On our 280 we added a through hull and more valves at the same spot to add a fresh water flush and better water flow for the big block 496 we had. It was in just about the same spot. That's just a guess, and even if I'm right, I'm not sure how well it would work.

To be safe you must confirm the valve is bronze, not brass. In salt, or brackish water, brass will literally disintegrate. The water will cause the tin to leach out over time. Because of the concentration of tin in brass the end result will be something very porous and crumbly. If it says brass on it, or does not say bronze, it should come out and be replaced with bronze. If that thing lets go while the engine is running you may well sink before you can stop it.
 
I 100% agree with Henry Boyd, looks like that's a T for a flush but its still going to the original B3 water pickup tube. We have to assume that smaller hose goes to a thru hull above waterline? That way you can put a hose in there and wash the engine out.

I'd love to have the thru-hull like you had Henry Boyd. I just finished replacing the outdrive water hose with those screw in washers and that sucked. Not to mention the poor flow.
 
I'll be back up at the boat this weekend and will check out the flush line. Maybe I'm in luck the PO adding this. The boat was certainly kept in good condition and this might have something to do with the engine being in great shape.

Does anyone have pictures of their boat with the aft bimini curtain? Doesn't seem like too common of a thing because people prefer the extra cabin space with the camper top and extending the boating season. My family is six (kids 9,8,6 &3) so it would be nice. I bought the boat with no tops or frames but I have the sides in not-so-great shape. The fabric isn't ripped but the glass is hopeless. If I match the color, linen tweed, and get the bimini and camper then I can use my side panels to keep it weather proof. But if I change the color (black, captains navy?) then it will look really funky with the linen tweed sides. There are enough debates on this website about color and heat and making the boat look new - not staring that. Just thinking about ditching the camper all together and putting my money into a new color bimini, front side and aft panels/curtain. I'll be buying next week. Thoughts?

But then I'd probably be removing decals and matching a waterline stripe...$...$...$...$. If you give a mouse a cookie...
 
what do you mean by aft bimini curtain? Do you mean the back piece for the camper canvas? Or something else? I bought my boat used and it came with the full camper canvas. We use the front bimini in the spring then both biminis once summer hits to provide more shade..
 
vector4 said:
what do you mean by aft bimini curtain? Do you mean the back piece for the camper canvas? Or something else? I bought my boat used and it came with the full camper canvas. We use the front bimini in the spring then both biminis once summer hits to provide more shade..
Click to expand...

The bimini is the front bit and camper is the back. The bimini aft curtain is the slanted 45 degree piece that goes from the transom to the back of the bimini where the camper would normally attach. Your head would be bent forward sitting in the aft couch.
 
Ah ok, I never knew that piece existed. I'm not sure I'd have a use for it. Like I said once it's summer I use the 2nd bimini top in back for added shade. I don't really ever use the camper top (the curtains) I just use the 2 biminis hooked together. I'm in Louisiana so rarely do I boat where I could be enclosed.
 
Camper definitely. I’m in Toronto. Helps with the shoulder seasons and rainy days as well as insects.

I bought my frames and all directly from Great Lakes. Mine is an AZ boat and they fit perfectly. Captains Navy.
 
Last edited:
Brandon270DA said:
I'll be back up at the boat this weekend and will check out the flush line. Maybe I'm in luck the PO adding this. The boat was certainly kept in good condition and this might have something to do with the engine being in great shape.

Does anyone have pictures of their boat with the aft bimini curtain? Doesn't seem like too common of a thing because people prefer the extra cabin space with the camper top and extending the boating season. My family is six (kids 9,8,6 &3) so it would be nice. I bought the boat with no tops or frames but I have the sides in not-so-great shape. The fabric isn't ripped but the glass is hopeless. If I match the color, linen tweed, and get the bimini and camper then I can use my side panels to keep it weather proof. But if I change the color (black, captains navy?) then it will look really funky with the linen tweed sides. There are enough debates on this website about color and heat and making the boat look new - not staring that. Just thinking about ditching the camper all together and putting my money into a new color bimini, front side and aft panels/curtain. I'll be buying next week. Thoughts?

But then I'd probably be removing decals and matching a waterline stripe...$...$...$...$. If you give a mouse a cookie...
Click to expand...

Just went through the same angst, but worse, my new-to-me boat is still waiting for final run-through and delivery to my marina... the bimini aft curtain actually looks a bit 'cleaner' and IMO, also looks like it may be a bit better if leaving it on longer-term (boating season here is ~8-9 months of the year, so the full canvas will see a bit of 'in the elements time).

I got a good deal from KevinC on this forum for the OEM setup - if not going custom, you should reach out to him, and he can do individual parts as needed.

For anyone following along, here's the difference in options:

Aft curtain for bimini:

Sea-Ray_270-Sundancer_1998_1_parts-manual-canvas-drawing_Bimini-Top_Bimini-Aft-Curtain.jpg

Pic on boat (not mine)

upload_2020-5-23_10-55-26.png


Full camper:

Sea-Ray_270-Sundancer_1998_2_parts-manual-canvas-drawing_Bimini-Top_Bimini-Visor_Camper-Top_Camper-Aft-Curtain.jpg

Pic on boat:
iu


Note the full camper setup requires a second rear frame. Here's the best explanation of the bits I've found from RNR Marine...
upload_2020-5-23_10-48-31.png


FWIW, I went with the full camper - I've got an AZ boat, so no fit guarantee, but have both frames along with new bimini and camper top sections, and want to do a color change (from teal to something tan-ish).
The Aft curtain might be ok for 2 people (my wife and I), but no way I'd personally do the aft curtain with a family. Here's a shot with the full camper - full inside of boat deck is useable vs 'much less' with the bimini aft curtain only. (Note this pic is from an SE, but still gets the point across..)


Sea-Ray_270-Sundancer-Special-Edition_1998_Bimini-Side-Curtains_Camper-Top_Camper-Top-Side-Curtains_Camper-Top-Aft-Curtain_inside.jpg


Numerous of the above pics from RNR Marine here (no affiliation): http://rnr-marine.com/auto/Sea-Ray_270-Sundancer_(1998-1998).shtml#products
 

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I ordered the bimini frame and camper top frame with KevinC yesterday in linen tweed. Going to see how it looks with the old side panels before spending any more dollars.

What I really need to complete my weather proofing is to know the size of your walkthrough windshields on a 98 SD. Bottom and top measurements. Mine is an inch too big and I still can’t figure out if I have a non-factory walkthrough (maybe PO broke it and bought whatever) or my windshield is smashed down in some way. Either way my walkthrough is about an inch too wide and doesn’t close.
 
Henry Boyd said:
Where do the hoses attached to the valve go/come from?

My guess is that since you have a big block engine with a B3 the valve may be someone's attempt at adding a fresh water flush to the raw water cooling. On our 280 we added a through hull and more valves at the same spot to add a fresh water flush and better water flow for the big block 496 we had. It was in just about the same spot. That's just a guess, and even if I'm right, I'm not sure how well it would work.

To be safe you must confirm the valve is bronze, not brass. In salt, or brackish water, brass will literally disintegrate. The water will cause the tin to leach out over time. Because of the concentration of tin in brass the end result will be something very porous and crumbly. If it says brass on it, or does not say bronze, it should come out and be replaced with bronze. If that thing lets go while the engine is running you may well sink before you can stop it.
Click to expand...

Confirmed it is a fresh water flush valve with hose hookup at deck level near the aft couch.

Also confirmed that if that valve (labeled wtf? in my picture) has to be in the correct position or cooling water from the bravo iii does NOT make it back into the engine. Seems like a good way to mess up your engine if you don't reset the valve after flushing. How would you know if it was in the wrong position once the boat is in the water? I'll be labeling that next time I'm at the boat.
 
Quick question for you guys, as we finally made it to our final post-work check ride and she should be in our slip next weekend at last. What are you guys with single 7.4L MPIs seeing for top speeds?

The boat ran fantastic, and I got a minor surprise in finding out not only was the seller (sold via broker) the original owner, even if it's an AZ boat in NC, but he kept a folder of at least half the maintenance records as well as some notes on engine replacement and the original owners manual, Mercruiser maintenance manual, and other bits. The engine was replaced and it's low-ish hours, while the boat tops 40MPH with 3 on board with 22P props. Normal for a 98 270 SDA wide-beam, or did he go for one of the upgraded HP options I found in his notes/folder?

The water was a bit choppy and a ton of people out on the lake, but the boat was great, able to casually cruise at 10MPH on up and topped out just north of 40MPH (will verify with GPS once she's back home..).
 
Question about rocker switches. My switch for my cockpit lights (just 2, led bulbs) gets super hot. Not like "oh, that switch is hot", more like "oh damn, that switch is Hot!" Any thoughts?
 
Livinitup said:
Question about rocker switches. My switch for my cockpit lights (just 2, led bulbs) gets super hot. Not like "oh, that switch is hot", more like "oh damn, that switch is Hot!" Any thoughts?
Click to expand...


May also be bad LED’s. Put on a different switch to see if they make it hot also.
 
rtp said:
Quick question for you guys, as we finally made it to our final post-work check ride and she should be in our slip next weekend at last. What are you guys with single 7.4L MPIs seeing for top speeds?

The boat ran fantastic, and I got a minor surprise in finding out not only was the seller (sold via broker) the original owner, even if it's an AZ boat in NC, but he kept a folder of at least half the maintenance records as well as some notes on engine replacement and the original owners manual, Mercruiser maintenance manual, and other bits. The engine was replaced and it's low-ish hours, while the boat tops 40MPH with 3 on board with 22P props. Normal for a 98 270 SDA wide-beam, or did he go for one of the upgraded HP options I found in his notes/folder?

The water was a bit choppy and a ton of people out on the lake, but the boat was great, able to casually cruise at 10MPH on up and topped out just north of 40MPH (will verify with GPS once she's back home..).
Click to expand...

Yeah I used to cruise at 27ish mph with the 22p props. I think I saw 36mph WOT once. This is on GPS, my dream-o-meter gauge has never worked. I have gone WOT maybe twice in 5 years lol. I have a fuel flow meter and seeing your fuel burn at that speed keeps you in line.

I hit something and replaced my outdrive with a 2.2:1 gear ratio drive so I need to sell some of my prop collection (I have 2 sets of 22p, a 20p, and a 28p)and get some 24p props. Now with my 22's I cruise at 24mph.
 
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rtp said:
Quick question for you guys, as we finally made it to our final post-work check ride and she should be in our slip next weekend at last. What are you guys with single 7.4L MPIs seeing for top speeds?

The boat ran fantastic, and I got a minor surprise in finding out not only was the seller (sold via broker) the original owner, even if it's an AZ boat in NC, but he kept a folder of at least half the maintenance records as well as some notes on engine replacement and the original owners manual, Mercruiser maintenance manual, and other bits. The engine was replaced and it's low-ish hours, while the boat tops 40MPH with 3 on board with 22P props. Normal for a 98 270 SDA wide-beam, or did he go for one of the upgraded HP options I found in his notes/folder?

The water was a bit choppy and a ton of people out on the lake, but the boat was great, able to casually cruise at 10MPH on up and topped out just north of 40MPH (will verify with GPS once she's back home..).
Click to expand...


I have a 2001 DA with a replaced motor as well to 496 non HO.

Had the drive replaced as well to a 2.2 from a 2.0. Here are the numbers:
1) 496 with 22p 3x3 blades 2.0 drive: WOT = 39mph at 4800
2) 496 with 24p 4x3 blades 2.2 drive: WOT = 38mph at 4800

1. was done with analog gauges and gps
2. was done with smartcraft and gps, 17.5 gph

I cruise at 3800 at 28 mph full gas half water 1 passenger
 
Does anyone out there have a DA with a 496... curious as to their setup and cruise speeds...
 
Andreas1977 said:
I have a 2001 DA with a replaced motor as well to 496 non HO.

Had the drive replaced as well to a 2.2 from a 2.0. Here are the numbers:
1) 496 with 22p 3x3 blades 2.0 drive: WOT = 39mph at 4800
2) 496 with 24p 4x3 blades 2.2 drive: WOT = 38mph at 4800

1. was done with analog gauges and gps
2. was done with smartcraft and gps, 17.5 gph

I cruise at 3800 at 28 mph full gas half water 1 passenger
Click to expand...

Are you sure your 17.5GPH isn't at cruise?

I have a mechanical fuel flow meter and it shows 15.5GPH on my 454 at 3500rpm. Which is similar enough to this https://www.boat-fuel-economy.com/mercury-mercruiser-3.0-181-fuel-consumption-us-gallons to where I think it's accurate. I see up over 25GPH quick if I push it over 4000rpm.
 
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