40 sedan bridge forum

Ones just like those came in your boat. Apparently these are updated.

I used these on my boat: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...3/custom-accessories-led-lights/23702/2619491

However, if I had to do it over, I would have went with the FP Marine flat ones.

These are interesting, too. I suppose you cut the power converter off of these and wired them into the dimmer switch circuit?

I appreciate this. You've given me a few things to look for. I do like something flat. Small diameter, I think, is key, since these go around the circumference of the switches on the backside and thus can get in the way of the opening when screwing down the panel.
 
Can one of you 2001 and up let me know what you have for the factory install for the breaker/fuse between the battery charger and the battery banks. The wiring diagram says each bank should have a 60 amp breaker. My generator battery has a 50 amp by the two engine banks have absolutely nothing. No sign anything was ever installed there.
 
Last edited:
Doing another windshield reseal and retrim, on RayO's boat. Messy and tedious because I use very tacky difficult to tool sealant. But works out great. Before and after of the starboard window.
89E53095-F961-4E6F-BF5A-23C187E8FF85.jpeg
AC0694BB-DC5D-478A-8799-31C9A3072E0D.jpeg
 
Looks good, what did you use and what is the recommended process, if you don't mind?
 
Looks good, what did you use and what is the recommended process, if you don't mind?
I found where I posted this previously in this thread. One note, when you clean out the old sealant from the channel clean out enough so it's below the thickness of the glass and below the metal lip of the frame opposite the glass edge. This gives you the sealing surfaces you need on both the glass edge and the edge of the fame. No need to completely clear out the metal frame channel unless in spots it's soaked with water and totally destroyed. Also the plastic tabs holding the glass in place need to be surrounded with sealant. They are a prime leak point.

http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/40-sedan-bridge-forum.53961/page-109#post-950143
 
Last edited:
Does anyone know what type of paint was used on the radar arch? And, if so, is there a way to order the factory tint?

Thanks in advance!
I took some of my color matched gel coat from spectra and spread it on a piece of cardboard to dry. My local paint store was able to match it exactly with an enamel paint.

I may be able to take a picture of the paint code tomorrow if we go to the boat.
 
I took some of my color matched gel coat from spectra and spread it on a piece of cardboard to dry. My local paint store was able to match it exactly with an enamel paint.

I may be able to take a picture of the paint code tomorrow if we go to the boat.
How did you prep and prime it? It's aluminum so a little tougher to get paint to stick long term. Did you paint it with it mounted or did you remove it? Reason I ask is I'm due. Underside of dome shelf is completely bare aluminum now.
 
How did you prep and prime it? It's aluminum so a little tougher to get paint to stick long term. Did you paint it with it mounted or did you remove it? Reason I ask is I'm due. Underside of dome shelf is completely bare aluminum now.
I just did touch up on a couple chips so just cleaned with solvent and painted over the bare aluminum. Its been two years and the paint has not come off.
 
I found where I posted this previously in this thread. One note, when you clean out the old sealant from the channel clean out enough so it's below the thickness of the glass and below the metal lip of the frame opposite the glass edge. This gives you the sealing surfaces you need on both the glass edge and the edge of the fame. No need to completely clear out the metal frame channel unless in spots it's soaked with water and totally destroyed. Also the plastic tabs holding the glass in place need to be surrounded with sealant. They are a prime leak point.

http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/40-sedan-bridge-forum.53961/page-109#post-950143
Thanks, this is a project that is up coming and not very exciting but one I will tackle regardless, your pictures and links will help,thanks again
 
Can one of you 2001 and up let me know what you have for the factory install for the breaker/fuse between the battery charger and the battery banks. The wiring diagram says each bank should have a 60 amp breaker. My generator battery has a 50 amp by the two engine banks have absolutely nothing. No sign anything was ever installed there.

Bill, I have three 60 amp breakers. Pictures show where Sea Ray put them and some close ups. Eaton Bussmann series.

https://www.waytekwire.com/item/469...atJYibaRy0Hqkkqt0w0w3MqrDd4KKrpcaArEGEALw_wcB

IMG_E0934.JPG


IMG_E0935.JPG


Mains
IMG_E0938.JPG


IMG_E0933.JPG
 
I just learned that my new boat does not have autopilot. I would’ve thought that a boat of this size would come automatically with autopilot. How difficult is it to install?
 

Attachments

  • D7FD8BE2-40AF-4B23-B34F-9BCB2C756B55.png
    D7FD8BE2-40AF-4B23-B34F-9BCB2C756B55.png
    1.1 MB · Views: 181
Looks like I get to pull my boat today. I've had a slight vibration in the port shaft for a while. Figured that I would deal with it this fall when I pulled it for a bottom job. In the last week, it's started to intensify at 3200 r.pm. (gas). I'm guessing that the cutlass bearing is finally toast. Plan to replace cutlass bearings on both sides, new dripless shaft seals plus spares, and recondition and balance the props. Haul out alone will be around $600. Can any of you guys give me an idea of what to expect to pay for prop reconditioning? Not sure if a local guy can do big nibral props and do it well, so may have them sent off. I'm assuming a couple of hours per side on the bearings. I'm guessing that I'm looking at a $2000 bill all in?
 
Looks like I get to pull my boat today. I've had a slight vibration in the port shaft for a while. Figured that I would deal with it this fall when I pulled it for a bottom job. In the last week, it's started to intensify at 3200 r.pm. (gas). I'm guessing that the cutlass bearing is finally toast. Plan to replace cutlass bearings on both sides, new dripless shaft seals plus spares, and recondition and balance the props. Haul out alone will be around $600. Can any of you guys give me an idea of what to expect to pay for prop reconditioning? Not sure if a local guy can do big nibral props and do it well, so may have them sent off. I'm assuming a couple of hours per side on the bearings. I'm guessing that I'm looking at a $2000 bill all in?

Have they not given you an estimate?
 

Forum statistics

Threads
113,095
Messages
1,425,878
Members
61,018
Latest member
IslandGirls1020
Back
Top