410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread**

98 400 Sundancer

I need to replace the shore power cables between the stern locker and the salon distribution board on my 1998 Sundancer 400. I've managed to expose the cable everywhere except where it runs through the aft stateroom.

I've removed the screws and the inspection panel to expose the top of the Starboard fuel tank and sender unit but can't see how to remove the mirror panel to expose the shore power cables.

Aft Stateroom.jpg


How do I remove the mirror panel so I can get to the cables (short of using a hammer and bringing on 7 years of bad luck)...

Thank you for helping me in my quest.

Cheers Pete
 
Oh La La said:
I had a survey on a 2001 410 and it had a cored hull, pay special attention around the underwater exhaust port. The boat I was looking at had a 2ft x 4ft soft spot forward from the exhaust ports both sides.. I walked away..
Click to expand...

Ahh....so great. This is exactly why I gave up trying to figure it out myself. ha. A 2001 410 owner two posts above confirmed his is solid glass, and here we have evidence of a wet, cored 410 of the same year.

I'm going to start the online rumor here and now - Sea Ray cored the hulls on Friday's only...boats built Monday-Thursday were solid glass. Spread the word.
 
Sea Ray is a production boat, but even so, they handled a lot of things like a small manufacturer. It is possible that the factory building the boat you are interested in could have changed manufacturing methods mid-year in production. Therefore, the best way to find out how the boat was constructed is to call SR Customer Service and give them your HIN # and ask them to check their records for that specific hull.

However, bear in mind that we are talking about a 20+ year old boat that has likely passed thru multiple owners. What you should be addressing is the boats current condition, not how it was made 20+ years ago. The reason I say that is because you have more exposure to moisture in the deck structure than in the hull. EVERY deck is cored. Besides, in the 20+ years since a 410 was built, it could have suffered from physical damage, poor repair technique, holes for transducers, drains, etc. bored in the wrong place, or poor maintenance where hatches, port lights, rail stanchions, windshields, etc. were never rebedded/resealed.

The best insurance from a "wet boat" is to have it surveyed by a competent hull surveyor experience in taking moisture readings and analyzing construction.
 
Peter Johnson said:
98 400 Sundancer

I need to replace the shore power cables between the stern locker and the salon distribution board on my 1998 Sundancer 400. I've managed to expose the cable everywhere except where it runs through the aft stateroom.

I've removed the screws and the inspection panel to expose the top of the Starboard fuel tank and sender unit but can't see how to remove the mirror panel to expose the shore power cables.

View attachment 84159

How do I remove the mirror panel so I can get to the cables (short of using a hammer and bringing on 7 years of bad luck)...

Thank you for helping me in my quest.

Cheers Pete
Click to expand...

That's odd. On my 97 I have screws holding that panel in, covered with plastic buttons, but fully visible. Once the screws, the lights and the AC outlet are fully removed that panel pulls out with moderate levels of cursing. I'm wondering with yours if those white panels aft and forward of the mirror need to come out to reveal a bracket or fasteners...
 
Stee6043 said:
Ahh....so great. This is exactly why I gave up trying to figure it out myself. ha. A 2001 410 owner two posts above confirmed his is solid glass, and here we have evidence of a wet, cored 410 of the same year.

I'm going to start the online rumor here and now - Sea Ray cored the hulls on Friday's only...boats built Monday-Thursday were solid glass. Spread the word.
Click to expand...


Whoa........that is a violation of CSR policy!

You can only post info like that on April 1 ...........you are a month late! How else are people who only boat 4 months a year and live above the Mason-Dixon Line going to know it is a rumor.
 
Peter Johnson said:
98 400 Sundancer

I need to replace the shore power cables between the stern locker and the salon distribution board on my 1998 Sundancer 400. I've managed to expose the cable everywhere except where it runs through the aft stateroom.

I've removed the screws and the inspection panel to expose the top of the Starboard fuel tank and sender unit but can't see how to remove the mirror panel to expose the shore power cables.

View attachment 84159

How do I remove the mirror panel so I can get to the cables (short of using a hammer and bringing on 7 years of bad luck)...

Thank you for helping me in my quest.

Cheers Pete
Click to expand...
First remove the two lights.
Pull the corners of the vinyl out and the screws will be there. EDIT - Now that I think about it and look closely at the pics it may be the middle areas of the vinyl along the two sides. Look closely at the picture and you can see a screw hole mid way on the panel side.
There will be another plywood panel behind also.
In there is the cable passage between engine room and cabin and helm.

IMG_3680.JPG
IMG_3685.JPG
 
Last edited:
Alex F said:
Greetings all,

Quick question, what's the general consensus in regards to the hull construction on 410DA? Does this model fall in the category of few other models where in mid 90s the hulls were cored and then switched to solid?

I know there's way to identify it based on the 4th character of the HIN, where "F" (e.g. SERF) means it should be solid. But, a friend of mine is just in the beginning stage of his search and doesn't have hull numbers to go by yet. Just wanted to have general understanding. Targeted 410s are in 1999-2001 range.
Click to expand...

Tell him to try calling SR CS with the HIN of any boat he is seriously considering. They’re very helpful. I called about my 2002 410 and they confirmed it is solid hull plus they sent me a copy of the original order sheet. Very cool!
After installing South Bay strainers, I can confirm that the hulls are solid and thick.
 
JVM225 said:
Tell him to try calling SR CS with the HIN of any boat he is seriously considering. They’re very helpful. I called about my 2002 410 and they confirmed it is solid hull plus they sent me a copy of the original order sheet. Very cool!
After installing South Bay strainers, I can confirm that the hulls are solid and thick.
Click to expand...

Your post provides more comfort. But, as Frank explained, I understand that it could be either solid or cored. We'll just have to approach SR with specific HINs and get confirmation.
 
Cocktail Time said:
Allrighty gents, I have always had an issue with the splice in my anchor rode going through my windlass. I've had it redone a couple times thinking it would be better, it's not. Before I go all chain, what do you think about this setup? The splice looks much better?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-150x1-...G4-Stainless-Chain-Windlass-Rode/362551183102
Click to expand...

From my experience and what I've also read on CSR before 3 strand works better in the gypsy.
And besides that:
Country/Region of Manufacture: China
 
Last edited:
Cocktail Time said:
Allrighty gents, I have always had an issue with the splice in my anchor rode going through my windlass. I've had it redone a couple times thinking it would be better, it's not. Before I go all chain, what do you think about this setup? The splice looks much better?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-150x1-...G4-Stainless-Chain-Windlass-Rode/362551183102
Click to expand...

Going with all chain is my recommendation. Since you're starting from scratch, I'd get no less than 250' of HT G4 chain. No need to go crazy for SS. Galvanize will be just fine.
 
I assume you have a Progress 1? I've never heard of anybody getting the splice to go through that windlass consistently until they go all chain. 3 strand/8 Plait/double braid I don't think it matters. Might work for a while, but the only sure thing is all chain.

That ebay rode is 1/4" chain, I'm pretty sure most of these on the 40' boats is 5/16" G4 so check if your going to try it.

I've priced chain for mine. 200' or galvanized is about $700 +/-.
 
Just looked back at some notes.

I found this to be a pretty good deal. 1/2 barrel (275') delivered is $1150. If you can find someone to split a full barrel (550' total or 275' each) is around $950 each. If 3 people split each would get 180' at about $650 each.

I estimate 5' from bow to water and anchoring on 20' of water...180' allows a 7:1 scope. Thats pretty good in Lake Lanier.

https://www.1st-chainsupply.com/chain/g40_windlass_chain.htm#NOTE

Of course now I remember why I didn't order it!! On the list of things to do.
 
carterchapman said:
Here's what I have from my old 410 Parts Log:
http://www.store.amequipment.com shaft-hardware-kit-p-363.html

My 410 uses the "truck/bus" style "wet" arms, with a double flat post and knurled nut mount, and bolt on blades. Rick (mrcomputerman) sent me the following link:

http://www.dieselequipment.com/contact/

Their special phone # for Wipers is:
1-877-307-7059 (Wiper Technologies)
The part #'s for my 410 are:
Arms 201513 ($20.96 each)
Blades TV6-24B (~$16 each)
My arms are 24" and my blades are 24".

My dealer wanted ~$50 each for the arms. I also found them on Amazon for ~$50 as well...

Thanks Rick!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info Carter. I appreciate it.
 
Ezsteps, I'm sure that the info above is correct on wipers, but I took the arm I had to the local auto parts store and was able to find an integrated arm and blade 24" for about $12 in painted steel. Look brand new a year later. I'll have to look but I posted a picture and the model number on a thread somewhere on here.
 
Cocktail Time said:
Ezsteps, I'm sure that the info above is correct on wipers, but I took the arm I had to the local auto parts store and was able to find an integrated arm and blade 24" for about $12 in painted steel. Look brand new a year later. I'll have to look but I posted a picture and the model number on a thread somewhere on here.
Click to expand...

Thanks Cocktail, I ended up getting into another project the other day anyway, so never did order them. I'm probably going to be at the boat tomorrow or Saturday anyway so maybe I'll try your idea. Thanks Again
 
Hi Guys. New member here even though it doesn't feel that way to me. I have been a SeaRay owner for about 8 years, on my second one, and have always gotten a ton of useful information reading through old and new posts on this forum. I definitly appreciate all the knowledge I have gained and binds it's gotten me out of. Today I finally have a question I can't find an answer for in a thread I was hoping someone might be able to help me out with. As you can see I run a Monaco Edition boat. There are some through hulls that come through in the navy stripe on the boat. They are standard white plastic fittings that were painted the same navy as the stripe. Well, the paint is beginning to chip on some of these and I can't seem to figure out a source to get the exact color I need. Would any of the other Monaco owners I see on here, or probably anyone with a navy hull SeaRay know where I can get this paint? Or, a paint code to source it locally? Any information would be greatly appreciate.
 
Peter Johnson said:
98 400 Sundancer

I need to replace the shore power cables between the stern locker and the salon distribution board on my 1998 Sundancer 400. I've managed to expose the cable everywhere except where it runs through the aft stateroom.

I've removed the screws and the inspection panel to expose the top of the Starboard fuel tank and sender unit but can't see how to remove the mirror panel to expose the shore power cables.

View attachment 84159

How do I remove the mirror panel so I can get to the cables (short of using a hammer and bringing on 7 years of bad luck)...

Thank you for helping me in my quest.

Cheers Pete
Click to expand...
Good luck Pete, when you take the vinyl off to expose the screws, would you mind taking a picture, I think I understand how this goes but would love to know where and how many screws to access. I have wanted to run some wiring threw there for a minute and my stereo guy charges quite a bit for something I can do myself... maybe...
 
Cocktail Time said:
Good luck Pete, when you take the vinyl off to expose the screws, would you mind taking a picture, I think I understand how this goes but would love to know where and how many screws to access. I have wanted to run some wiring threw there for a minute and my stereo guy charges quite a bit for something I can do myself... maybe...
Click to expand...
Check the edit on my post for the screw locations. The vinyl isn't glued in these locations; SR installed the screws then tucked the vinyl into the gap along the side. Just carefully pinch the vinyl and pull it out then using a plastic putty knife tuck it back in when reinstalling. Also don't completely remove the screw on one side; use it as a handle to pull that panel out.
 
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