410 Sundancer/Express Cruiser and 400 Sundancer/Express Cruiser **Official Thread**

I'll absolutely share some photos of the install. Defender marine got my shipment out yesterday, looks like my fridge will deliver tomorrow. If I'm feeling super motivated I could have it installed this weekend. With any luck this will be my last weekend on hard...hoping to splash next week.
 
Installed windlass cover. Needs a few "improvements", but it'll work for now. I at least proved to myself sewing small projects on the boat can be a DIY project. I'm going to make come wrap/stand off covers for my eisenglass poles so the look better and don't burn. .

20200502_090531.jpg
 
dtfeld said:
Installed windlass cover. Needs a few "improvements", but it'll work for now. I at least proved to myself sewing small projects on the boat can be a DIY project. I'm going to make come wrap/stand off covers for my eisenglass poles so the look better and don't burn. .

View attachment 83737
Click to expand...

Looks pretty good!
 
dtfeld said:
Installed windlass cover. Needs a few "improvements", but it'll work for now. I at least proved to myself sewing small projects on the boat can be a DIY project. I'm going to make come wrap/stand off covers for my eisenglass poles so the look better and don't burn. .

View attachment 83737
Click to expand...
Looks good dtfeld, but how does it fit as a hat. You need to match your canvas when rafting off.:D:D:D
 
Hey guys this may be an impossible question. I'm not at the boat so I can't measure. I want to order new wiper arms and blades from AM equipment. Do any of you know which ones I need or should I just wait until I can get to the boat and measure? I figured someone here has probably already done this and I could go ahead and get them ordered. TIA
 
Ezsteps said:
Hey guys this may be an impossible question. I'm not at the boat so I can't measure. I want to order new wiper arms and blades from AM equipment. Do any of you know which ones I need or should I just wait until I can get to the boat and measure? I figured someone here has probably already done this and I could go ahead and get them ordered. TIA
Click to expand...


Not sure if I got mine at AM, but they are 24”

Arms #201513
Blades #WT6-24
 
Hello, all. Any chance any of you guys have removed your ice makers? Is there a trick to getting it out?

I had a mission to remove mine today. Failed. I can get the ice maker to slide out but the bottom of the ice maker is below the door edge. I don’t see how this thing slides or swings out. And the panel surrounding it appears to also be taller than the opening. I’m at a loss...but I also gave up a little more quickly than usual.

Thanks in advance for any tips!
 
There’s a subtle slope in the deck that makes the fwd/right side of that locker taller than the left/aft side, so the trick is to maneuver the ice maker to the right for removal. I also remove the block that holds the bottom door latches.
 
RollerCoastr said:
There’s a subtle slope in the deck that makes the fwd/right side of that locker taller than the left/aft side, so the trick is to maneuver the ice maker to the right for removal. I also remove the block that holds the bottom door latches.
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So the white panel does not need to be removed at all? Sounds great...I just didn’t think it had that kind of play. Good stuff. Thank you, Roller!
 
Stee6043 said:
So the white panel does not need to be removed at all? Sounds great...I just didn’t think it had that kind of play. Good stuff. Thank you, Roller!
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Correct - you’ll slide the white panel and the ice maker forward together, then the unit will come out through the white panel.
 
RollerCoastr said:
Correct - you’ll slide the white panel and the ice maker forward together, then the unit will come out through the white panel.
Click to expand...

I may head back out there today with your tips, Roller. Attached is a photo I snapped. I'm assuming I can remove the screws on the white panel and it will move as you've described. What confused me yesterday on the panel is that it's got a flange on the left/aft side. I assumed it wouldn't move a whole lot but I will give it a shot! Thanks again!

49847199387_9b6d11778f_c.jpg
 
Revisiting my interior lighting question. (can't locate my post from last year)

I was hoping that more (and less expensive) options would've hit the market, but that doesn't seem to be the case.

My 400 has 9 of these in brass with halogen bulbs:

y4mq1EUuOB_Whfnxbk-PzifLYzJFFrF2LBl2XMWr_AX1gThUPyOpnknNa1F0BHXaev-p9WW37EEmcaxkrseWZHNHAo_jtI69YS9-xorApXSb762OFOb4H_xFKZZwiF17ZJbon3EI5i4kPeQ9Bc1zM6kgWV5H3wWI6kISz7LNDcfc-6JU85A-6rn9hGTKUvSKVNd

These are "affordable" and warm LED, but not dimmable. (I have Vimar dimmers in the salon/galley and almost never keep the halogens on high)

I want to ditch the brass and go warm LED, and I think dimmable. I like this, but aside from sticker shock, I'm also concerned about going from a square base to the round since most of the lights are mounted on foam-backed vinyl.

y4mD2uLkaypY7RmTW_zWEQGpzPspspEi745V136nK3dn5aQ-i0ny4ZZWTM70PO7Ea2v0SxdM3TZd03RphkCR6gJMOicvjZ3WfzRhSt27RTX-ExR2AsH9ZZQTVxv7MrwesIj0hGO0yvgQiziwQf2l3D3139wT-pUdSQwC5sV0opqdeFePgHpdDM0tbuubquKY20G

Has anyone stumbled across fixtures they're happy with?
 
Greetings all,

Quick question, what's the general consensus in regards to the hull construction on 410DA? Does this model fall in the category of few other models where in mid 90s the hulls were cored and then switched to solid?

I know there's way to identify it based on the 4th character of the HIN, where "F" (e.g. SERF) means it should be solid. But, a friend of mine is just in the beginning stage of his search and doesn't have hull numbers to go by yet. Just wanted to have general understanding. Targeted 410s are in 1999-2001 range.
 
I have a 1998 EC all glass, 1999 they switched to cored hulls, nothing wrong with a cored hull until you get a leak..
 
Alex F said:
Greetings all,

Quick question, what's the general consensus in regards to the hull construction on 410DA? Does this model fall in the category of few other models where in mid 90s the hulls were cored and then switched to solid?

I know there's way to identify it based on the 4th character of the HIN, where "F" (e.g. SERF) means it should be solid. But, a friend of mine is just in the beginning stage of his search and doesn't have hull numbers to go by yet. Just wanted to have general understanding. Targeted 410s are in 1999-2001 range.
Click to expand...

The fourth digit of the HIN is the manufacturing location. F being their Florida plant. I think...could be off here...that SERT would be their TN plant.

I'm not sure if the MFG location would have an impact on cored vs solid. I've read enough on this site and elsewhere to still wonder whether or not my hull is cored. But I really don't mind not knowing. A wise man around these parts once said "if the boat surveys dry at 20+ years old, it'll likely stay dry". So...that made sense to me. ha :)
 
Alex F said:
Greetings all,

Quick question, what's the general consensus in regards to the hull construction on 410DA? Does this model fall in the category of few other models where in mid 90s the hulls were cored and then switched to solid?

I know there's way to identify it based on the 4th character of the HIN, where "F" (e.g. SERF) means it should be solid. But, a friend of mine is just in the beginning stage of his search and doesn't have hull numbers to go by yet. Just wanted to have general understanding. Targeted 410s are in 1999-2001 range.
Click to expand...
The 410DA series started production in mid 2000 and went through 2004 (from my recollection). The 400DA was from 1996 to mid 2000. In 2000 the Cat engines went from the 3116TA to the 3126TA which was a slight increase in displacement, transition to a raw water cooled aftercooler, as well as some other changes. Generally, the 400DA had the 3116 engines and the 410DA had the 3126 engines when equipped with Diesel. The exported 400DA and 410DA's might have had other propulsion.
SERF = Merritt Island Manufacturing Facility, Florida
SERP = Palm Coast Manufacturing Facility, Florida
These boats were manufactured in both facilities. There was some speculation that the early Palm Coast boats had cored hulls but that's about it. This has been discussed a lot on this forum but to date I don't think anyone has reported a cored hull in these boats.
 
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My understanding about the 410DA was that they all were solid glass construction. I just had to replace a thru hull on the port side about midship. I can confirm that my hull was solid glass at that location as well. I have a SERF built boat.

With that said, there are cored areas on the boats, primarily on the deck around hatches windlasses and other items that penetrate the deck. Survey should identify any issues.

One other way to confirm, is call Sea Ray. If you get to a specific boat, they can tell you exactly how the boat was built. My dock neighbor did this for his 1994 370, I just put a call in about my 2001 410. I'll report back what I learn.
 
Ezsteps said:
Hey guys this may be an impossible question. I'm not at the boat so I can't measure. I want to order new wiper arms and blades from AM equipment. Do any of you know which ones I need or should I just wait until I can get to the boat and measure? I figured someone here has probably already done this and I could go ahead and get them ordered. TIA
Click to expand...

Here's what I have from my old 410 Parts Log:
http://www.store.amequipment.com shaft-hardware-kit-p-363.html

My 410 uses the "truck/bus" style "wet" arms, with a double flat post and knurled nut mount, and bolt on blades. Rick (mrcomputerman) sent me the following link:

http://www.dieselequipment.com/contact/

Their special phone # for Wipers is:
1-877-307-7059 (Wiper Technologies)
The part #'s for my 410 are:
Arms 201513 ($20.96 each)
Blades TV6-24B (~$16 each)
My arms are 24" and my blades are 24".

My dealer wanted ~$50 each for the arms. I also found them on Amazon for ~$50 as well...

Thanks Rick!
 
I had a survey on a 2001 410 and it had a cored hull, pay special attention around the underwater exhaust port. The boat I was looking at had a 2ft x 4ft soft spot forward from the exhaust ports both sides.. I walked away..
 
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