Easy Load Trailer Bunk

toddh

toddh

Active Member
Jun 23, 2009
151
Southern Indiana
Boat Info
260 Sundeck
Engines
350 MAG
I have a easy load trailer that has two large vertical bunks. They are 12' long. Any idea where I could get a new one? I can't seem to find one in any catalogs.
118.JPG
 
Can you just buy pressure treated 2x8 or whatever size that is and cover them with indoor/outdoor carpet? Just a hint, use stainless hardware to mount the carpet to the boards. If you use regular staples they will rust out in a couple of years.

Any job doing is worth doing right.
 
Gofirstclass said:
Can you just buy pressure treated 2x8 or whatever size that is and cover them with indoor/outdoor carpet? Just a hint, use stainless hardware to mount the carpet to the boards. If you use regular staples they will rust out in a couple of years.

Any job doing is worth doing right.
Click to expand...
It has a bevel on it to hold the boat in place. Actual measurement is 3" x 8" x 12', with the carpet on it. Not exactly sure of the wood dimensions.
 
Are you
toddh said:
I have a easy load trailer that has two large vertical bunks. They are 12' long. Any idea where I could get a new one? I can't seem to find one in any catalogs. View attachment 83614
Click to expand...

Are you asking about a new trailer or new bunks? It wasn't clear. But assuming you're talking about just bunks, I think, from your last post...

-- You'll need to cut the angle, yourself. You can get 4x8x12 PT lumber and then just cut the angle off to match your hull.
-- Or, you can scab together (2) 2x8x12's to give you an end product 3" wide.

If you want, skip the carpet... paint them black, then use plastic skids on top. MUCH easier to load and unload!

Is the wood definitely rotten?
 
Any good wood shop can duplicate that bevel for you if you don't have the tools and equipment to do it.

Pieces of 2x8 lumber are about 1.5" thick. Two of them together give you 3" thickness. Again, use stainless hardware to screw the two pieces together. What you want to use is a screw like the one next to the right end in the drawing below where the head will be flush with the level of the wood.
shutterstock_69778789.png

If you're using 2 pieces of 2x8 use a screw that's about 2"-2.5" long so it reaches well into the far piece of wood. You want a good, solid hold to keep the two pieces tightly together with no ability to shift.

If you don't have a good power drill/screwdriver now is the time to visit Lowe's or Home Depot. Buy one with a higher power level. Now is not the time to cheap out on a tool. If you buy a decent one it will work for you for many years..

I'm using a Black and Decker that's probably 20 years old and still does a great job.
 
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Thanks guys. Yes it is the bunk that needs replaced, it is rotten in the back. That makes sense with two 2 x screwed together. I can do the work and take it somewhere to get the bevel.
 
You might want to use some waterproof wood glue, as well. If you're only going to screw them together, rather than through bolt, be sure to put screws from both sides.

You could also adjust the bunks so they sit under the flats of the lifting strakes - that's quite common with this type of set up. In that case, just knock the corners off. Otherwise... do you have a circular saw? You won't cut all the way through in one pass, but you can come back on the other side to get the rest, or just finish with a hand saw or a recip.
 
Those bunks are adjustable. Can you align them with the strakes and have them square? That's how ours is and works great..
 
If one of the bunks is rotten, the second may not be far behind. Might consider replacing both at the same time.
 
toddh said:
I have a easy load trailer that has two large vertical bunks. They are 12' long. Any idea where I could get a new one? I can't seem to find one in any catalogs. View attachment 83614
Click to expand...

I will go my own way here. I will admit to being an anal conservative. I found a mill, in my case near Kokomo, IN, that had cypress wood and rebuilt my bunks with what the manufacturer originally had in place. It can withstand salt water better than PTL and is a long term solution. I would NEVER use assembled pieces, but I am anal about things like that.

MM
 
If you have a saw mill close you can get a piece from them. then you could pick the type of wood you needed, cedar or white oak or what ever. Then cut the bevel with a circular saw. Did it on my trailer for my 290DA but my buddy has a saw mill so it was easy for me.
 
I want to add something in regards to scabbing two boards together. Structurally, this is completely sound and it can last a long time (have personally seen it). BUT, there is a possibility of water getting trapped between the boards, leading to rotting. It's certainly not something that is "guaranteed" to happen, but it's more likely, obviously, than if it was a single beam.
 
Another vote for choosing Cyprus; mine (4"x8"x12') have seen 12 years of salt water use and just beginning to show rot on the lower aft ends. Try sourcing through a local trailer parts store, I called one and they could get them already carpeted for $320 for both. I Discussed the rot in mine with a trailer shop who told me they are good to keep using as the sides and top are solid, they did recommend to leave the bottom uncovered when re-carpeting to allow moisture to drain (mine were covered).
 
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