Official Searay 200 Thread

Ted33 said:
CNY, I have been going around the boat with a screwdriver tightening things up and decided to remove the floor panel over the fuel tank. Mine says 29 gallons on the manufacturer's sticker.
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The Sea Ray spec sheet for my 1993 200 Overnighter OB states the boat has a 30 gallon HDPE fuel tank. When I was getting the boat ready today I cleaned off the top of the fuel tank and the manufacturer's sticker stated the tank was a 32 gallon aluminum (5052) fuel tank. It's the original fuel tank because the date of manufacture is April 1993. I'm happy about the extra 2 gallons but would prefer an HDPE fuel tank. 5052 aluminum has good corrosion resistance but HDPE will never corrode.

I'm also disappointed that the Sea Ray spec sheet was not correct. It seems that Sea Ray used a variety of fuel tanks in the 200 series. Anyone else have a fuel tank that does not match the spec sheet?
 
The cabin doors are painted and the handles are installed. The next step is to mount them on the boat.
Cabin Doors Painted.JPG
 
Chip S said:
The Sea Ray spec sheet for my 1993 200 Overnighter OB states the boat has a 30 gallon HDPE fuel tank. When I was getting the boat ready today I cleaned off the top of the fuel tank and the manufacturer's sticker stated the tank was a 32 gallon aluminum (5052) fuel tank. It's the original fuel tank because the date of manufacture is April 1993. I'm happy about the extra 2 gallons but would prefer an HDPE fuel tank. 5052 aluminum has good corrosion resistance but HDPE will never corrode.
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My boat was manufactured in April 1993 towards the end of the 1993 model year. The 1994 models used an aluminum fuel tank. It seems that Sea Ray switched from the HDPE tank to the aluminum tank before the end of the 1993 model year.
 
Chip S said:
The cabin doors are painted and the handles are installed. The next step is to mount them on the boat.
View attachment 83440
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Doors look good. Can't wait to see the installed pics. Are you going to install a bolt latch like the originals to latch the two sections together when closed? My doors also have straps to the side in the cockpit that attach to snap hooks to keep the doors open.
 
CNYBoater said:
Doors look good. Can't wait to see the installed pics. Are you going to install a bolt latch like the originals to latch the two sections together when closed? My doors also have straps to the side in the cockpit that attach to snap hooks to keep the doors open.
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Still figuring out the arrangement of the latching hardware. Basic principle will be to latch the large door to the door frame and then latch the small door to the large door. Slide bolts are preferred but I'm not sure how much room I'll have. I'll find that out after I mount the doors. Straps to hold them open will definitely be added. I have two straps on the boat now. I'll need to add the other two that aren't there anymore.
 
Chip S said:
Still figuring out the arrangement of the latching hardware. Basic principle will be to latch the large door to the door frame and then latch the small door to the large door. Slide bolts are preferred but I'm not sure how much room I'll have. I'll find that out after I mount the doors. Straps to hold them open will definitely be added. I have two straps on the boat now. I'll need to add the other two that aren't there anymore.
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I have 1 strap per door, the snap on the door is near the hinge on the door closest to center. That pulls it tight full open position. I have one bolt latch on center edge of small door that extends into a receiver hoop on center of large door. There is also a small hasp so that the cuddy can be locked with small padlock. Between the bolt and hasp, I have no door shutter underway.
 
CNYBoater said:
I have 1 strap per door, the snap on the door is near the hinge on the door closest to center. That pulls it tight full open position. I have one bolt latch on center edge of small door that extends into a receiver hoop on center of large door. There is also a small hasp so that the cuddy can be locked with small padlock. Between the bolt and hasp, I have no door shutter underway.
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Doors I've seen on the internet have two straps per door like this.

Sea Ray 200 Door Straps.jpg

Are there any issues with using one strap while underway?
 
hmm, just looked at the picture, that does look right. I am going to assume this to mean I REALLY need to get the boat home and shrinkwrap off. My ramps are closed, but If I've forgotten what my boat looks like, I have issues. lol
 
So finally getting around to replacing the glitchy fuel sender. It was working, but with the float lower that the top surface of the fuel, it was far from accurate. Decided to go with a WEMA Reed Switch style sending unit instead of the swing arm. I've installed it, but when I pulled up the floor panel the two layers of 1/2" ply have delaminated further (since the last time I looked 2 years ago). The cockpit is a fiberglass liner, but for whatever reason the fuel tank panel and floor cooler are bilge coat painted 1/2" ply in multiple layers. Picked up some plywood, resin to fair the plywood and edges/voids, Poly resin to seal the ply 360deg before I bond the two panels together and a quart (hope its enough) of Total Boat Bilge Paint in white as the final finish before carpet is reinstalled. I want to get out on the water so am probably going to put the existing floor back for now after I take my measurements. I'll post some before/during/after pictures.
 
Looking forward to seeing the pictures. Glad to know its a fiberglass liner except where the fuel tank and cooler are. Certainly would have been nice if Sea Ray used fiberglass for the entire floor.
 
Hello,
I’ve been looking for a 230 or 240 but a buddy sent me a couple listings that are 200 Cuddy cabins both have the 4.3 v6.

One is a 1989 the other is a 1991.

If I consider this size what might be the specific areas I should focus my inspection?

Ive read through many posts here and it seems the 4.3 is the common engine, and is seemingly adequate. And to look for rot inside the ski locker floor.

Anything else?

I plan to use boat in lakes, rivers, but also in Fl in salt including some diving in the Keys.

Thank you !
 
El Capitan said:
Hello,
I’ve been looking for a 230 or 240 but a buddy sent me a couple listings that are 200 Cuddy cabins both have the 4.3 v6.

One is a 1989 the other is a 1991.

If I consider this size what might be the specific areas I should focus my inspection?

Ive read through many posts here and it seems the 4.3 is the common engine, and is seemingly adequate. And to look for rot inside the ski locker floor.
Click to expand...

The wood floor is the part that fails the most. My interior was redone by the PO two years ago and CNYBoater plans on redoing his floor this fall.

Any boat with an older sterndrive should have the transom inspected for rot. After owning a sterndrive for 14 years I no longer consider them. Sea Ray made the 200 Overnighter with an outboard in 1993 and 1994. My personal preference would be one of those. Transom rot is much less of an issue with an outboard.
 
IMG_1448.JPG
IMG_1449.JPG
IMG_1450.JPG
Started on the floor panel replacement.
Pictures of the removed, de-laminating, floor panel. Also pictured is first coat of fiberglass resin on wood to seal it prior to Total Boat Epoxy Bilge Paint top coats. Waiting for my daughter to have off work on a decent weather day to assist with the rest of the edges/other side of panels. I'm pouring and spreading with 4" putty knife and she is working it in with a brush, hitting spots that are soaking in. The original panel was stapled together. I decided to use adhesive and 1" sex bolts in twice drilled holes to decrease water penetration at fasteners. Fumes are much worse on the resin and epoxy paint than the Alumilite epoxy I've used previously for wood turning. Most definitely outside, masks and gloves on work.

More to follow on the panel. If this works out, I might take out the in floor cooler we done use and reconfigure that panel with a locking waterproof floor locker.

Routine maintenance is nearly complete. Replaced the Thermostats as well, as they had a lot of white chalky corrosion on them after only 3 years. I'd clean them up and test them, but I'm sure the Mrs. would be upset if I put them in one of her pots with her candy thermometer.
 
El Capitan said:
Hello,
I’ve been looking for a 230 or 240 but a buddy sent me a couple listings that are 200 Cuddy cabins both have the 4.3 v6.

One is a 1989 the other is a 1991.

If I consider this size what might be the specific areas I should focus my inspection?

Ive read through many posts here and it seems the 4.3 is the common engine, and is seemingly adequate. And to look for rot inside the ski locker floor.

Anything else?

I plan to use boat in lakes, rivers, but also in Fl in salt including some diving in the Keys.

Thank you !
Click to expand...

I enjoy the heft and hull shape of the 200 but I have moved up from a 17' trihull Starcraft and before that a 14' Catalina Capri sailboat. My kids miss riding in the bow though. They're starting to get used to being able to escape the sun or swimming fatigue in the cuddy though.

Like Chip, I have an outboard model. I'm not sure about Chip's top speed with his 150hp, but I have the middle tier option package which was also with hydraulic steering but a 135hp blackmax over stock 115hp. I just prefer outboards for some reason... My best WOT on the lake was 42mph I believe. And the 30 gallon tank has not yet proved to be inadequate for us, as we often stop to picnic lunch or to swim in a cove. With my boat purchasing used, I had the usual deferred maintenance on the engine for a boat that sat unused two seasons. I also replaced the items I knew to have short lifespans like the water pump and impeller just to reset the clock. Other than that, the floor panel that is 26 years old, and a new set of gauge and fuel sender, I haven't done much. LazyDaze has recommended in another thread to remove, check/correct transom wood if needed, and replace the garboard plug assembly, which I still need to do this year.
 
Thanks guys. I grew up in Sou Fla and around outboard motors mostly until my first SR a 1981 240 Cuddy Cabin that had big block 454 and BI drive. Great boat. Loved the IO setup inside and outside the boat. At that time 4-cycle outboards weren’t mainstream yet.

My only issue w outboard motors is I still prefer two cycle motors and the cost of repowering to a 4-cycle is usually more costly than the boat is worth.

But I wouldn’t rule out an outboard rig at all. Especially since I’ll be using in both fresh and salt and I just hate rust.

In college I mated on a 72 foot sloop, Smuggler of Abersoch. I spent most of my bright work time in repairing rust. Nasty and impossible to deal with. So I hate it.
 
I would love to repower with a 4 stroke outboard but as you say I can't justify the cost. The 2 stroke is a different animal but I am getting used to it. My first boat had a 2 stroke outboard so the circle is complete I guess. :)
 
Everyone has been super helpful with previous posts so first of all, thank you!

Quick Question: I have a ‘95 200 OV - has anyone tried putting a little porta potti in the cuddy with room for the cushions to lay on top. Just curious to hear any feedback!

Thanks!
 
JonRZ said:
Quick Question: I have a ‘95 200 OV - has anyone tried putting a little porta potti in the cuddy with room for the cushions to lay on top. Just curious to hear any feedback!
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The 200 OV was designed to use a SaniPottie Model 962, 964, or 964MSD. Any of those will fit the space underneath the cushions. You can see ours underneath the cushions through the hole in the wall.

1993 Sea Ray 200 OV Cabin.jpg
 
Chip S said:
The 200 OV was designed to use a SaniPottie Model 962, 964, or 964MSD. Any of those will fit the space underneath the cushions. You can see ours underneath the cushions through the hole in the wall.

View attachment 86419
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Thanks Chip! Just ordered a 964! Gotta make sure the wife has that option ;)
 
CNYBoater said:
View attachment 86356 View attachment 86357 View attachment 86358 Started on the floor panel replacement.
Pictures of the removed, de-laminating, floor panel. Also pictured is first coat of fiberglass resin on wood to seal it prior to Total Boat Epoxy Bilge Paint top coats. Waiting for my daughter to have off work on a decent weather day to assist with the rest of the edges/other side of panels. I'm pouring and spreading with 4" putty knife and she is working it in with a brush, hitting spots that are soaking in. The original panel was stapled together. I decided to use adhesive and 1" sex bolts in twice drilled holes to decrease water penetration at fasteners. Fumes are much worse on the resin and epoxy paint than the Alumilite epoxy I've used previously for wood turning. Most definitely outside, masks and gloves on work.

More to follow on the panel. If this works out, I might take out the in floor cooler we done use and reconfigure that panel with a locking waterproof floor locker.
Click to expand...

Total Boat "TotalBilge" goes on well with a low nap roller and is slick looking/feeling. 220 Grit on the resin and cleaned surface, then 220 grit between layers of TotalBoat. Can recommends 2-3 coats. The picture below is the two painted surfaces to be clamped for 24 hours. After it cures I'll drill for the aluminum 1" sex bolts. This panel should never de-laminate. 8 hour cure time between coats on the bilge paint (massive VOCs on this stuff). Should have it done and carpet moved to this piece by Monday, weather permitted...

IMG_1458.JPG
 
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