40 sedan bridge forum

This may be a dumb question....
How should I leave my boat?
I normally leave AC converter on and turn everything else off on the breaker panel in the cabin.
I switch the mains (masters) off in the cockpit.
 
On the Reel said:
This may be a dumb question....
How should I leave my boat?
I normally leave AC converter on and turn everything else off on the breaker panel in the cabin.
I switch the mains (masters) off in the cockpit.
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I leave shore power plugged in, all 110v breakers on except for stove and hw heater. On 12v side I only leave on both light breakers. That's so I can turn the lights on when I first get back on the boat when I open the sliding door. And I leave the entertainment switch on - no real reason why.
 
When I am on the boat, everything is on, so when I leave, on the 120v side I turn off the water heater. On the 12v side I turn off the water pumps and the head system. That’s it.
 
Thanks guys
Now, another question for the gas engine owners. My boat has three batteries for the mains and one for the generator. I guess the single battery is for one engine and the two in series are for the other engine and house.
 
On the Reel said:
Thanks guys
Now, another question for the gas engine owners. My boat has three batteries for the mains and one for the generator. I guess the single battery is for one engine and the two in series are for the other engine and house.
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Correct. The (2) battery bank is likely your starboard engine plus house. I added a second battery in parallel to my port side single battery as well, to run my stereo amps and stay out of the house side. My 3 bank battery charger charges all 5 including the genny battery.
 
Most of us leave the air conditioning systems running all of the time especially the circulation fans. Otherwise you will probably start having mold and mildew problems. With all of the fabrics and carpet once these problems start it's nearly impossible to completely get rid of it...
 
Anyone have lumitec seablaze’s? If so where exactly did you place them? Thanks!
 
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I have a Westerbeke gas generator. Doing my routine spring servicing, and while running I was in the ER. The generator runs smooth, but every now and then I get a faint “thump” that I can’t really isolate. Not sure if that’s just the water chugging through the system or what.

Just seeing if anyone else has noticed this.
 
CaptRonn said:
I have a Westerbeke gas generator. Doing my routine spring servicing, and while running I was in the ER. The generator runs smooth, but every now and then I get a faint “thump” that I can’t really isolate. Not sure if that’s just the water chugging through the system or what.

Just seeing if anyone else has noticed this.
Click to expand...

Does the "thump" correspond with an increase in load, such as an A/C compressor engaging?
 
I don't always love going to the fuel dock, but when I do, I love $1.39 ethanol free gas. Actually $1.29 when they knock off $.10 for being a member of that club. Found out later, another marina down the lake was at $1.14. Horrible for our local Oklahoma economy, but pretty great for my personal economy.
 

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Damn!
I’m moving out your way!
We are paying $3.59 per gallon, that’s with the cash discount !




Drafter said:
I don't always love going to the fuel dock, but when I do, I love $1.39 ethanol free gas. Actually $1.29 when they knock off $.10 for being a member of that club. Found out later, another marina down the lake was at $1.14. Horrible for our local Oklahoma economy, but pretty great for my personal economy.
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On the Reel said:
Damn!
I’m moving out your way!
We are paying $3.59 per gallon, that’s with the cash discount !
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They won't drop it till they sell of their stock! (Even then they might take their sweet time!)
 
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So after a year or so of procrastinating, I finally installed the new cockpit refrigerator. I followed the lead of FelixDream and installed a Isotherm 65. My ice maker hadn't worked properly since purchasing the boat, and even if it had, the refrigerator makes more sense for me. I'm pretty happy with the results, however it wasn't as easy as it first appeared. Before attempting this project, you should know that this is a pretty tight fit ( top to bottom). And the bottom piece of Stainless trim will almost certainly need to be modified to allow for the curvature of the decking by the door wall. In my case the height of the Aqua Traction Decking ( which I Love...) didn't help either. Another consideration is how to keep the flooring under the refrigerator dry and prevent rot. I basically built a subfloor of PVC and framed it with plastic corner molding which I then covered with flex seal.( the picture looks a lot worse than it really is..... but it doesn't look great). View attachment 83449
 

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Burnin Daylight said:
I'm not sure why some pics are rotated, I attempted to correct but to no avail....
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Burnin. Simply edit the photo before uploading. Crop it just a tiny bit and it will load correctly.
 
Burnin Daylight said:
View attachment 83448 View attachment 83451 View attachment 83454 View attachment 83455 View attachment 83456 So after a year or so of procrastinating, I finally installed the new cockpit refrigerator. I followed the lead of FelixDream and installed a Isotherm 65. My ice maker hadn't worked properly since purchasing the boat, and even if it had, the refrigerator makes more sense for me. I'm pretty happy with the results, however it wasn't as easy as it first appeared. Before attempting this project, you should know that this is a pretty tight fit ( top to bottom). And the bottom piece of Stainless trim will almost certainly need to be modified to allow for the curvature of the decking by the door wall. In my case the height of the Aqua Traction Decking ( which I Love...) didn't help either. Another consideration is how to keep the flooring under the refrigerator dry and prevent rot. I basically built a subfloor of PVC and framed it with plastic corner molding which I then covered with flex seal.( the picture looks a lot worse than it really is..... but it doesn't look great). View attachment 83449
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Did the fridge come with the trim pieces.
 
ROB BONDY said:
Did the fridge come with the trim pieces.
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Yes, but you need to verify from whoever your buying from that they are included, I came across some that were not.
I got this from "Marine Warehouse"
"Isotherm Cruise 65 Clean Touch Stainless Steel DC Only R.Swing 4-Side SS Flange"
 
So a day of "interesting news"...

Last trip out, as we were coming home, the port engine, a cat 3126 with 1400 hours, started to run a little rough. We got a lot of extra white/gray smoke out of that side. I limped home and got the diesel guy out to take a look.

In doing some diagnostic testing, there is an issue on the #6 cylinder. At idle, manually blocking the injector had no effect (unlike the normal hunt on the rest of the cylinders). The injector was pulled and tested, it has tested fine and is delivering the correct fuel load (good news).

A boroscope has shown no damage to the cylinder walls or top of the piston (more good news).

So that leaves us with the head. The Boroscope shows a rust line between the valves (we think a crack) and one of the valves is set a higher in the head than it is supposed to be. The valve spring is also not as compressed as it is supposed to be on that valve. The next step is to remove the head and see what's what.

As we are doing this, I will probably have the turbo rebuilt (it needs it).

I just wanted to vent a little bit...thanks for listening...
 
I started to do my spring work on the boat. I am in the very back of the building and there are still quite a few boats in there so getting back to it is a bit of a chore. First up is new shaft seals. Yesterday I began by pulling the props and changing the starboard side. I started there because it was the easier side, nothing in the way. Today I did the port side and then cleaned up and touched up the paint on the bolt heads etc. Nothing out of the ordinary. The seals were original and started to drip a little near the end of last season. The shafts had a groove from the seals. The new seal assembly was 3/4" longer than the originals and I set them a 1/4" further forward on the shaft log so they are well away from the old groove.
For those of you who may want to do this in the future, here's some info for your note book:
The flange nut is 1 1/4" - 12 thread. The socket size is 1 13/16". A standard socket fits into the flange, there is no need for a thin wall socket. (diameter of the inside of the flange where the socket slips in is 2 1/2") Everything else tool wise is just routine stuff. The flange pulled easily from the taper with just a slight pop, nothing like the bang of a prop coming loose. After I got the shaft cleaned up, I noticed a part number on it. Picture below. Hopefully none of us ever need a shaft. This is a Cummins powered boat, the Cat shafts may be a different number.
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Couple other pics


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Thin Nylok shaft nut and the regular nut I used to press the flange off.
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Pulling the flange off.
I threaded a regular nut onto the shaft, leaving it stick out enough to touch the other coupling half leaving about a 3/16" gap to pull. The nut was threaded a little further onto the shaft than this when I did the pressing.
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Everything back together. Hopefully good for another 16 years.
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