Official 2003.5-2008 340 Sundancer Thread

OK...I’m tracking a leak and have it narrowed to the water supply to the head. Does anyone have any advice/instructions on how to remove the table in the aft cabin that is under the stairs? I have a vacuum on board so my vacuum connection and hose storage is in here. I’ve found two right angle brackets that hold it to the floor but can only move it about a 1/4 inch. Don’t want to pull to hard and break something else. Advice?
 
New Shelf Contents.jpg
You mean something like this? Keep the pull out and mount the shelf to it. I used the 4 holes already in that bottom plate. Hope it helps.
http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php...ere-tv-area-to-a-bar.85667/page-2#post-964880
View attachment 83109 View attachment 83110 View attachment 83111 View attachment 83112

mnm99, great pics and fabrication. The bottle footprint i am working with is a bit more random. Going to have an open shelf and use bottle sleeves. View attachment 83272
 
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Speaking of vacuums, my "new to me" '05 340 has the central vac. But I can't figure out how to turn it on. There's a switch on the can with an "Auto" and a "on" position. I tried both, threw every switch on the main panel, and checked the breakers in the engine room. Is there another on/off switch somewhere?
 
Speaking of vacuums, my "new to me" '05 340 has the central vac. But I can't figure out how to turn it on. There's a switch on the can with an "Auto" and a "on" position. I tried both, threw every switch on the main panel, and checked the breakers in the engine room. Is there another on/off switch somewhere?
The vacuum system turns on automatically when the metal ring on the hose is inserted (the metal ring closes a circuit). Make sure it is inserted all the way. Check the metal ring for damage. Finally, you can't run an electric heater and the vacuum at the same time. I had to reset the outlets breaker when I did this.
 
Looking at replacing my AC unit (original 12k btu/h Cruisair). MarinAire has 11k and 14k; They are recommending 14k since the hoses, power, drain, and pump can all be used. I like the gauges and the fact that the compressor is wrapped. I will check on the clearances. Any opinions on the MarinAire units?
I thought I would provide an update after my post. I went with the MarinAire 14,000 btu/hr unit, ordered from the factory direct. The unit was in Tacoma (from Florida) within a week. It is way more quiet than the original factory unit, and I am pretty happy with it.
I installed the unit myself. Notes arranged by system, for the benefit of others:
Water Piping: I did not want to change or extend the water piping (every fitting is a potential leak!). To make the factory piping connect directly, I rotated the new unit 180 degrees different than stock. So the MarinAire filter faces the bow not the stern now. Filter is still easy to change/clean.
Drain Piping: The drain pipe need to be extended. So I purchased poly tubing, a coupling (barbed fittings both ends), and clamps. Pretty easy.
Power and Pump Connections: Swapping the 120v power and pump connection locations was straight forward, except that there was only one ground terminal in the control box. There is one ground wire for the pump, and one ground wire from power. So I stacked them. Just barely enough space. I also re-tightened the ring terminals (one was loose), before terminating. Also pretty easy.
Duct Connections: The factory blower outlet is a square flange, bolted to the plenum tee-fitting. The new blower is round 6-inch. So the duct system needed to be modified. I marked a 6-inch circle on the plenum tee-fitting and used a series of cuts and bent them out to make a round opening with bent tabs. I used the bent tabs as an attachment location for a 6-inch starter duct. I jointed them with metallic duct tape inside and outside. Then used a length of 6-inch flex from the blower outlet to the now modified plenum tee-fitting. I re-supported the plenum tee-fitting to keep it from touching the walls. Took time to do this right, but not difficult.
Controls: Could not use the factory wiring to the original thermostat location. I took apart the starboard side hanging closet enough to cut the original thermostat wire and realize it was impractical to run new wiring from the original thermostat location to the AC unit. No easy way that would look acceptable. The thermostat is not really a thermostat in that it doesn't sense temperature and humidity; It just displays it. So I located the new 'thermostat' in the galley cabinet where the Glomex TV Gain control is located. Used a jigsaw to add an opening in the board. To adjust the temperature I just open that cabinet. Not really a big deal to me, and it keeps things clean.
The location of temperature and humidity sensor is on the unit itself, down low. After watching it cycle on and off a number of times, I realized that by rotating to face the bow, the unit was not properly sensing room temperature. It has no idea what the actual room conditions were. The AC unit came with a remote wired temperature and humidity sensor. I mounted it below the bed, on the back side of the wood return air grille, and abandoned the factory sensor that was on the AC unit. That worked so much better. The AC unit also comes with a wireless remote that will be mounted near the bed. So the controls was really the most complicated part of the install.
 
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I thought I would provide an update after my post. I went with the MarinAire 14,000 btu/hr unit, ordered from the factory direct. The unit was in Tacoma (from Florida) within a week. It is way more quiet than the original factory unit, and I am pretty happy with it.
I installed the unit myself. Notes arranged by system, for the benefit of others:
Water Piping: I did not want to change or extend the water piping (every fitting is a potential leak!). To make the factory piping connect directly, I rotated the new unit 180 degrees different than stock. So the MarinAire filter faces the bow not the stern now. Filter is still easy to change/clean.
Drain Piping: The drain pipe need to be extended. So I purchased poly tubing, a coupling (barbed fittings both ends), and clamps. Pretty easy.
Power and Pump Connections: Swapping the 120v power and pump connection locations was straight forward, except that there was only one ground terminal in the control box. The is one ground wire for the pump, and one ground wire from power. So I stacked them. Just barely enough space. I also re-tightened the ring terminals (one was loose), before terminating. Also pretty easy.
Duct Connections: The factory blower outlet is a square flange, bolted to the plenum tee-fitting. The new blower is round 6-inch. So the duct system needed to be modified. I marked a 6-inch circle on the plenum tee-fitting and used a series of cuts and bend them out to make a round opening with bent tabs. I used the bent tabs as an attachment location for a 6-inch starter duct. I jointed them with metallic duct tape inside and outside. Then used a length of 6-inch flex from the blower outlet to the now modified plenum tee-fitting. I re-supported the plenum tee-fitting to keep it from touching the walls. Took time to do this right, but not difficult.
Controls: Could not use the factory wiring to the original thermostat location. I took apart the starboard side hanging closet enough to cut the original thermostat wire and realize it was impractical to run new wiring from the original thermostat location to the AC unit. No easy way that would look acceptable. The thermostat is not really a thermostat in that it doesn't sense temperature and humidity; It just displays it. So I located the new 'thermostat' in the galley cabinet where the Glomex TV Gain control is located. Used a jigsaw to add an opening in the board. To adjust the temperature I just open that cabinet. Not really a big deal to me, and it keeps things clean.
The location of temperature and humidity sensor is on the unit itself, down low. After watching it cycle on and off a number of times, I realized that by rotating to face the bow, the unit was not properly sensing room temperature. It has no idea what the actual room conditions were. The AC unit came with a remote wired temperature and humidity sensor. I mounted it below the bed, on the back side of the wood return air grille, and abandoned the factory sensor that was on the AC unit. That worked so much better. The AC unit also comes with a wireless remote that will be mounted near the bed. So the controls was really the most complicated part of the install.
Thanks for the update and I'm glad you're happy with your new install. Not sure it was worth doing all these modifications unless your new unit was a lot less expensive that the Dometic unit. My new 16K Dometic unit was literally plug and play. Took one hour to pull out the old unit and install the new one. I'm glad it all worked out for you and listing all the details of your new install. We have great fellow boaters here on this 340 site.
 
Thanks for the update and I'm glad you're happy with your new install. Not sure it was worth doing all these modifications unless your new unit was a lot less expensive that the Dometic unit. My new 16K Dometic unit was literally plug and play. Took one hour to pull out the old unit and install the new one. I'm glad it all worked out for you and listing all the details of your new install. We have great fellow boaters here on this 340 site.
No kidding, it would have been nice to be more plug and play. The Dometic DTU 16k is around $2,300 (+$230 for sound wrapping) and the MarinAire 14k was about $1,750 (included sound wrapping). Cost wasn't my main tipping point, though. I was able to discuss the install directly with the MarinAire factory tech prior to ordering. And I have become less enamored with Dometic in that they are so big and have purchased so many other lines, that they have difficulty tracking replacement parts.
 
That looks nice. I was concerned about stuff staying in place while under way. I travel a lot.
I don’t leave anything on the counter i usually use the sink to store immediate handy stuff unless I need the Sink then I take off the sink cover when under way ,EDF91153-4A07-4C6E-AFA2-5E531EFB6F6F.jpeg Then I put would put it it back on at the dock where I put my coffee pot or anything else I need until I need the sink
 
No kidding, it would have been nice to be more plug and play. The Dometic DTU 16k is around $2,300 (+$230 for sound wrapping) and the MarinAire 14k was about $1,750 (included sound wrapping). Cost wasn't my main tipping point, though. I was able to discuss the install directly with the MarinAire factory tech prior to ordering. And I have become less enamored with Dometic in that they are so big and have purchased so many other lines, that they have difficulty tracking replacement parts.
Well done Captain!!!
 
The vacuum system turns on automatically when the metal ring on the hose is inserted (the metal ring closes a circuit). Make sure it is inserted all the way. Check the metal ring for damage. Finally, you can't run an electric heater and the vacuum at the same time. I had to reset the outlets breaker when I did this.
Thanks, I'll take a closer look.
 
Has anyone done a step by step write up on replacing engine impellers on the 8.1’s ? I could have swore I saw it on here at one time, thanks!
 

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