40 sedan bridge forum

On the Reel said:
Welcome and congratulations!
I’ve been quoted $6500 for SeaDek installation, so your price seems great!
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Thank you! They want $4000 for me to do the install and $5500 to have them install it. How difficult is it to install? I think for the extra money it might be worth it to make sure everything is done right.
 
JASON P GRIFFITH said:
Couple of your questions answered:

Tint. I had a pro home installer do 3M to the level of Limo. for window's and door. 5 years strong and looks fantastic. See my avitar.

Garmin back talks to the Ray Marine. I think around the last 10 pages I even show the image to attach the wiring. super easy to connect and have them talk. When mounting use the FP marine bevel to match up and they will cut it to the 8612 I have a 7612 in there and added a backup cam. Not needed, but I do like it.

Cockpit fridge- ehh, I put a big ol super cooler IE YETI RTIC PELICAN (I use a RTIC) by the door and it adds an additional seat. Then I mounted a 12" JL in a custom box in the place were the fridge would go and still have room for a ton of stuff. Gives great lows on the lower level but not abnoxious. A fridge then I looked it up a couple years ago was over 1.2K so I figured to keep like 16 beers cold for my crew that will last 15 Min was not worth the ROI and I might as well just have a cooler. Plus when I leave on Sunday with ice in the cooler and some left over beers, on Friday it still has cold beer with ice. (I am on a mooring so no constant power)

Stereo- For swimmers I have seen people cut right into the back storage door and add 7.7 or 8.8" speakers for the swimmers, but I hate cutting fiberglass. It doesn't grow back. Plus you would want to make them a sealed box and glass in the backside.
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Thank you for helping me with my questions.

The tint on your boat is where I got the idea to do it. It looks fantastic!

Great idea about FP doing the cutting. Do you know how much they charged or the exact link for the bevel that matches up? This might be a dumb question... Should I also get a new radar if I am getting a new MFD? Do you have your stereo connoted to your MFD?

Good point about the fridge - I think the extra space will have a lot more value. I am also now looking at adding an enclosed sub!

I would do the speakers on the arch for the swimmers.
 
Johnny Utah said:
Thank you for helping me with my questions.

The tint on your boat is where I got the idea to do it. It looks fantastic!

Great idea about FP doing the cutting. Do you know how much they charged or the exact link for the bevel that matches up? This might be a dumb question... Should I also get a new radar if I am getting a new MFD? Do you have your stereo connoted to your MFD?

Good point about the fridge - I think the extra space will have a lot more value. I am also now looking at adding an enclosed sub!

I would do the speakers on the arch for the swimmers.
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Follow this link and add custom cut out below for the additional $35. https://www.searay-parts.com/Sea-ray-dash-instrument-panel-p/fp-panel-1-5-sf380410da.htm
they also make custom panels all sizing for if there is another hole you want to cover give the dimensions and they will do it. I ordered above and told him I had a 7612XSV. It came from FL to MA in two days done. It might have been a couple bucks cheaper but about the same. Total now is like $135 plus $35 for the cut out.

As for the Radar, I did just because everything is now upgraded and not piecemeal-ed together. It sucked to run the wires through the arch, I am not going to lie. but I saved 10s of $1000's doing the whole system myself.

For the stereo, I used to chase the new tech every year. Finally with this boat I didn't because I have a Clarion head unit that has never failed me and I only use it to connect the fusion BT-100. I use that so anyone can use their phone or bluetooth device to control while on the boat. I have XM, Pandora, and all that crap through my phone anyways. Plus I installed it like 5 years ago and have never had a reason to replace. Works great still. As I upgrade the system I just do the speakers and amp's. If I am playing the music on that size boat I do not see a need for zones, you know?

As for the sub one night while feeling good I pulled the broken icemaker out and grabbed a old sub box in the basement and wired up a amp. A week later I was putting a quality sub in and a better AMP. My wife told me It was overkill till she heard it... Now she is so happy I did. Those are my two cents! Let me know if you have any further questions!
 
Johnny Utah said:
Thank you! They want $4000 for me to do the install and $5500 to have them install it. How difficult is it to install? I think for the extra money it might be worth it to make sure everything is done right.
Click to expand...
The SeaDek is very easy to install. Basically a big sticker so make sure area is clean and score the backing so you are only sticking a small section of the piece at a time which will allow for better alignment. I helped a friend install his and we were done in about an hour on a bout similar in size to our 400.
That price of $4,000 seems very reasonable. Can you share who gave you the quote?
 
Pierpressure1 said:
The SeaDek is very easy to install. Basically a big sticker so make sure area is clean and score the backing so you are only sticking a small section of the piece at a time which will allow for better alignment. I helped a friend install his and we were done in about an hour on a bout similar in size to our 400.
That price of $4,000 seems very reasonable. Can you share who gave you the quote?
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I am happy to share my contact and the layout. Maybe we can get a few of us to all do it and get a better price. The quote attached is from Jan, but they said they would still honor the pricing. What SeaDek thickness did you guys go with? Is 6MM good or should I go with 8 or 9 MM?

I am a bit worried that the cockpit bench seat part of the template is different on the 2001. (It has been a bit since I was last at the boat to double check) What do you guys think?
 

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JASON P GRIFFITH said:
Follow this link and add custom cut out below for the additional $35. https://www.searay-parts.com/Sea-ray-dash-instrument-panel-p/fp-panel-1-5-sf380410da.htm
they also make custom panels all sizing for if there is another hole you want to cover give the dimensions and they will do it. I ordered above and told him I had a 7612XSV. It came from FL to MA in two days done. It might have been a couple bucks cheaper but about the same. Total now is like $135 plus $35 for the cut out.

As for the Radar, I did just because everything is now upgraded and not piecemeal-ed together. It sucked to run the wires through the arch, I am not going to lie. but I saved 10s of $1000's doing the whole system myself.

For the stereo, I used to chase the new tech every year. Finally with this boat I didn't because I have a Clarion head unit that has never failed me and I only use it to connect the fusion BT-100. I use that so anyone can use their phone or bluetooth device to control while on the boat. I have XM, Pandora, and all that crap through my phone anyways. Plus I installed it like 5 years ago and have never had a reason to replace. Works great still. As I upgrade the system I just do the speakers and amp's. If I am playing the music on that size boat I do not see a need for zones, you know?

As for the sub one night while feeling good I pulled the broken icemaker out and grabbed a old sub box in the basement and wired up a amp. A week later I was putting a quality sub in and a better AMP. My wife told me It was overkill till she heard it... Now she is so happy I did. Those are my two cents! Let me know if you have any further questions!
Click to expand...

Thank you for the link. I will definitely do that.

Electronics- I also plan on doing all of this work myself. I care the most about the speed, depth and autopilot. I typically take 1-2 trips over to Michigan from Chicago. So if I buy the radar, will the rest of the old electronics will work with the New Garmin 8612 MFD? (See attached photo)

I have JL head units on my other Boats and I have controls at the helm too. I would like to have controls on the MFD, also next to the helm (That way I can change the music while I am on another screen on the MFD) and outside the sliding door. My only problem with the JL head unit is how slow it can be from time to time to respond to the command. I was thinking about switching over to Fusion to see if that was better. Thoughts?
 

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Johnny Utah said:
I am a bit worried that the cockpit bench seat part of the template is different on the 2001. (It has been a bit since I was last at the boat to double check) What do you guys think?
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You may have a little bit of a problem with the bench seat no matter if you don't do your own templates. When I put in my PlasDeck, the flooring (that was provided by plasdeck from their templates for the 400DB, not mine) did not fit around the bench seat right, but that is because the bench seat is attached to the cockpit wall with brackets that make the seat removable. Sea Ray just installs the brackets on there so the bench is right under the back rest. I had to move my seat brackets 1 1/4" to port to make the border of the plasdeck around the base of the bench even. I then had to repair the gelcoat on the cockpit wall on the starboard side of the bench. I just filled the port side holes with gelcoat and didn't have to finish them because they are hidden behind the seat now that it is shifted to port. I had never noticed that the bench wasn't perfectly lined up under the backrest before, now it is. An 1 1/4 isn't much until you see the new floor all cockeyed in relation to it.
The rest of the installation was perfect, and the boat looks great. Good luck with your project.
 
my3sons said:
You may have a little bit of a problem with the bench seat no matter if you don't do your own templates. When I put in my PlasDeck, the flooring (that was provided by plasdeck from their templates for the 400DB, not mine) did not fit around the bench seat right, but that is because the bench seat is attached to the cockpit wall with brackets that make the seat removable. Sea Ray just installs the brackets on there so the bench is right under the back rest. I had to move my seat brackets 1 1/4" to port to make the border of the plasdeck around the base of the bench even. I then had to repair the gelcoat on the cockpit wall on the starboard side of the bench. I just filled the port side holes with gelcoat and didn't have to finish them because they are hidden behind the seat now that it is shifted to port. I had never noticed that the bench wasn't perfectly lined up under the backrest before, now it is. An 1 1/4 isn't much until you see the new floor all cockeyed in relation to it.
The rest of the installation was perfect, and the boat looks great. Good luck with your project.
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I appreciate all the information. That is why I am thinking about having them create the template and do the install.
 
We had ours done a couple of years ago. Castaway Customs in Florida did it, with a rep that came by to measure in Oklahoma. Once he received it back, it took him and a helper maybe an hour to install. On installation day, I would suggest that you do your own deck cleaning to prepare for them. They won't clean it like you will... I've attached our template that my installer sent me prior to cutting it out. Ours was $5K installed. The installer then knocked off $500 because I set him up with 4 other friends to do their boats also.
 

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Drafter said:
We had ours done a couple of years ago. Castaway Customs in Florida did it, with a rep that came by to measure in Oklahoma. Once he received it back, it took him and a helper maybe an hour to install. On installation day, I would suggest that you do your own deck cleaning to prepare for them. They won't clean it like you will... I've attached our template that my installer sent me prior to cutting it out. Ours was $5K installed. The installer then knocked off $500 because I set him up with 4 other friends to do their boats also.
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I plan on taking out all the snap in screws and cleaning everything really good before they show up. Yours looks really good! I really like how you added the extra pieces on the fly bridge next to the hatch. That is SeaDek, correct?
 
Johnny Utah said:
Thank you for the link. I will definitely do that.

Electronics- I also plan on doing all of this work myself. I care the most about the speed, depth and autopilot. I typically take 1-2 trips over to Michigan from Chicago. So if I buy the radar, will the rest of the old electronics will work with the New Garmin 8612 MFD? (See attached photo)

I have JL head units on my other Boats and I have controls at the helm too. I would like to have controls on the MFD, also next to the helm (That way I can change the music while I am on another screen on the MFD) and outside the sliding door. My only problem with the JL head unit is how slow it can be from time to time to respond to the command. I was thinking about switching over to Fusion to see if that was better. Thoughts?
Click to expand...
I've heard people love fusion. I love my clarion. it's all perception. As for the old electronics they can get GPS data off of the Garmin via the 0183 output. Looks like that is all you will need. As for a radar if you don't really need it but for some fog or something grab a little 18" like this one https://www.thegpsstore.com/Garmin-GMR-18-HD-Dome-Radar-P5078.aspx short money and will fit the current ounting holes. plus was stonger and faster/better than what came with the boat!
 
Anybody know what a good replacement convection microwave that will fit our model that is currently avail? I want to keep the convection but my display went out. The 2 replacement models that superseded it are no longer avail. hoping to find something stainless... Any help would be appreciated!
 
CaptRonn said:
Does anyone have the gelcoat color code for the hull? 1999 model?

I had it, but can't locate the email.
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And then this from Spectrum Color:

The Sea ray part number of 665885 crosses to our Spectrum part number A551470k Sea Ray Artic White 94-03. This part number is for the 2 oz patch paste kit.
 
Stereo question - Do any of you know how long of RCA’s you needed to run from the amp to the head unit?
 
Johnny Utah said:
Stereo question - Do any of you know how long of RCA’s you needed to run from the amp to the head unit?
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There is wireway access behind your head unit cabinet that drops down the far port side behind your fuse panel door. From there, you can drop it down behind your cockpit ice maker, and then back through the bulk head (sliding glass door wall), and under your fold down sofa. Get good quality cables. Can't remember what length I used, but 12' should do it. Disregard the saw dust in the photo attached. The wires in the black plastic loom are factory, the blue and black cables are added with the new hole. The overdrive module thing that you see in the pic is a powered signal booster that boosts the audio signal from the deck to the amplifiers. It turns on when the deck and amps turn on with the decks amp "turn on" lead.
 

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Changing ac pump. There is an aluminum plate with vibration isolators and 1/4-20 screws holding it to the fire wall. Pump is mounted on this plate. Plate is mounted to firewall. Can I remove those screws or is there a nut behind the firewall (inaccessible). Otherwise there are four smaller screws with nuts in a VERY tight spot.


UPDATE: My impatience got the best of me along with just a bit of faith in the Sea Ray builders. There are t nuts in the plywood on the firewall. Alum. plate can be removed. Watch out for the sleeves in the vibration isolators.
 
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