OFFICIAL 390/40 Motor Yacht Thread

Make sure you get the updated head. If you are buying from Cummins you will, but I noticed there are many superseded ones from other suppliers. The part # you want is 4942463 and cost around 3800
 
JM390 said:
Nice to see things moving forward. I am very interested to see they are able to do this without lifiting engine out. Did they even remove the floor panels?

On mine we have the motor completely out of the boat. New long block supposed to start going in later this week then reassembly happens. I just got done cleaning and painting the aftercooler and all accessories we are re using. So far so good but taking a bit ......
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JM how did they get the block/motor out
Of the boat. I know you posted pictures of the hatch’s in salon floor. Damn what a job!
 
We did everything in place, in the water. Jacked the engine enough to drop the pan, enough room to un bolt the rods, push out the pistons and pull the sleeves. There are pics of another guy that pulled the entire engine, not me.
 

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RBB said:
JM how did they get the block/motor out
Of the boat. I know you posted pictures of the hatch’s in salon floor. Damn what a job!
Click to expand...

On mine they removed the port salon couch, removed carpet around that area and then removed the factory hatch under the carpet. I was pretty impressed to Sea Ray Engineers actually designed a factory enclosed hatch that when removed allows for complete removal of the engine. Once they removed that hatch, they set up a A frame and hoisted motor up and out and set it down on boards across the hatch opening. Stripped motor down to the long block and then slide it right out the hatch on a engine stand.
 
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Rgdodson54 said:
We did everything in place, in the water. Jacked the engine enough to drop the pan, enough room to un bolt the rods, push out the pistons and pull the sleeves. There are pics of another guy that pulled the entire engine, not me.
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Wow amazing. These guys must have been done this before. Wonder how they got to the outboard side of the oil pan bolts. Tight space to work with in there to start. I cant imagine how they had enough height to lift pistons out of there once engine was lifted. I am impressed.
 
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Once the head is off there’s plenty of room above. The challenge will be placing the new head back on, it weighs a lot. Right now the marina is prohibiting slip owners from being on the property so I have no idea when I’ll be able to help out. I’m taking the ECUs to Cummins tomorrow to get the latest update. The one I’m interested in is the fix for the low load idle stumble/shutdown. Anyway, Happy Easter
 
JM390 said:
View attachment 82269 View attachment 82270

On mine they removed the port salon couch, removed carpet around that area and then removed the factory hatch under the carpet. I was pretty impressed to Sea Ray Engineers actually designed a factory enclosed hatch that when removed allows for complete removal of the engine. Once they removed that hatch, they set up a A frame and hoisted motor up and out and set it down on boards across the hatch opening. Stripped motor down to the long block and then slide it right out the hatch on a engine stand.
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Unreal it fits out thru the hatch. I would have bet against it. Glad they are getting it done for you.
 
The only big part going through the hatch is the head. 2 guys and a dock line made it sorta easy. Getting off the boat, without dropping, it was a challenge. Placing the new head on the block will be a 3 person job, but we’re not there yet.
 
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JM390 said:
View attachment 82269 View attachment 82270

On mine they removed the port salon couch, removed carpet around that area and then removed the factory hatch under the carpet. I was pretty impressed to Sea Ray Engineers actually designed a factory enclosed hatch that when removed allows for complete removal of the engine. Once they removed that hatch, they set up a A frame and hoisted motor up and out and set it down on boards across the hatch opening. Stripped motor down to the long block and then slide it right out the hatch on a engine stand.
Click to expand...

Curious why you need a new long block and is it new or a rebuilt? When I had these engines in a 420 that had dropped a valve seat before my purchase, I was told if I let the other engine blow and it broke the block there were no new engines to be had. I have always liked the 390 and looked at several when we were looking for our current boat but the sellers did not agree with my feelings that the sale price should reflect the need to replace both heads!
 
Hey guys, do the 390MYs have electrically controlled drive shifting or cables? Looking to do a wireless remote for someone with an 03 390, not sure if it’s diesel or a gasser yet.
Thanks
CD
 
Carpediem44DB said:
Hey guys, do the 390MYs have electrically controlled drive shifting or cables? Looking to do a wireless remote for someone with an 03 390, not sure if it’s diesel or a gasser yet.
Thanks
CD
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Mine is a 04 , pretty certain mine is cable. It’s also a gasser.
 
becnme said:
Curious why you need a new long block and is it new or a rebuilt? When I had these engines in a 420 that had dropped a valve seat before my purchase, I was told if I let the other engine blow and it broke the block there were no new engines to be had. I have always liked the 390 and looked at several when we were looking for our current boat but the sellers did not agree with my feelings that the sale price should reflect the need to replace both heads!
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I probably could have gotten away with replacing all pistons and reusing existing block but I opted for a new long block for 2 reasons. One who knows where that metal that broke off ended up... and 2 buy buying a complete assembled long block that portion will carry Cummins 2yr 2000 hour warrantee on it. That was reassuring also. Rest of parts get reinstalled with the exception we are installing a new turbo, new injectors, rebuilt existing lift pump and all original accessories.

They do not sell or produce complete 480 Ce Reman engines anymore but they will "build to order" a Cummins 480 long block which is oil pan to valve cover but no "hangings"
 
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I am looking to replace the ice maker on the bridge with a refrigerator. Any advice on this?

Why: I am super risk averse on using ice in drinks. Traveling abroad for many decades has taught me that ice is a great vector for germs. Either bad water that is frozen or mildew that accumulates in the ice receptacle. The ice maker on my 390 has signs of previous mildew. If nothing else, I might just bag the ice and use it a portable cooler.
 
I have an AC/DC refrigerator in place of the ice maker. Additionally, I bought for 99.00 a portable ice maker, makes a load of ice in 15 minutes
 
Angle390 said:
I am looking to replace the ice maker on the bridge with a refrigerator. Any advice on this?

Why: I am super risk averse on using ice in drinks. Traveling abroad for many decades has taught me that ice is a great vector for germs. Either bad water that is frozen or mildew that accumulates in the ice receptacle. The ice maker on my 390 has signs of previous mildew. If nothing else, I might just bag the ice and use it a portable cooler.
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The OEM cockpit refrigerator/freezer is the Norcold DE0040. You should be able to cross the dimensions of that unit against your icemaker. It takes up pretty much the entire space.
 
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