Deck Hatch leak

flylowmd

New Member
Oct 28, 2018
13
Boat Info
2002 320DA
Engines
Merc 350 MPI
Hi all, does anyone have any experience re-sealing the main hatch above the v berth. Small leak in the forward port side corner coming from between the hull and the hatch flange. Would appreciate any pointers. Thanks!!

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Hi all, does anyone have any experience re-sealing the main hatch above the v berth. Small leak in the forward port side corner coming from between the hull and the hatch flange. Would appreciate any pointers. Thanks!!

View attachment 81626

You can remove the hatch flange (screws) and remove the hatch assembly. Then clean the area up, then reseal (either weatherstripping or silicone, I prefer silicone), then reinstall the hatch and replace screws. A couple of hour job max.
 
You can remove the hatch flange (screws) and remove the hatch assembly. Then clean the area up, then reseal (either weatherstripping or silicone, I prefer silicone), then reinstall the hatch and replace screws. A couple of hour job max.

Thanks! Much appreciated. Wasn't sure if I was going to run into any issues separating the hatch flange from the hull once I removed the screws. Agree with you on the silicone. Do you have any specific silicone recommendations?
 
Thanks! Much appreciated. Wasn't sure if I was going to run into any issues separating the hatch flange from the hull once I removed the screws. Agree with you on the silicone. Do you have any specific silicone recommendations?

Not really. Just go look on the shelf at Lowes or Home Depot, find a good silicone (I prefer clear).
 
I used Boatlife lifeseal caulk. Use masking tape to mask around the hatch piece on the deck. The caulk will squeeze out and this will help with clean up.
 
Are you sure it’s coming under the flange?....I had a leak in the same spot and it was just the tension on the gasket from the clamps needed adjusting.... just something to check
 
I have a corner of the window adhesive failing. I googled reseal boat hatch and several videos came up showing how to get them out and reseal them.

One showed using wooden wedges to get the whole hatch out, the how to redo the window and finally how to rebel the whole shootin match

check out

Dave
 
Last edited:
I used Boatlife lifeseal caulk. Use masking tape to mask around the hatch piece on the deck. The caulk will squeeze out and this will help with clean up.
Thanks for the info. Much appreciated.
 
I have a corner of the window adhesive failing. I googled reseal boat hatch and several videos came up showing how to get them out and reseal them.

One showed using wooden wedges to get the whole hatch out, the how to redo the window and finally how to rebel the whole shootin match

check out

Dave
Thanks Dave. Yes I only saw that one video so i figured i would sent out a post to see if anyone else had any tips/tricks/input. Thanks for the reply.
 
Are you sure it’s coming under the flange?....I had a leak in the same spot and it was just the tension on the gasket from the clamps needed adjusting.... just something to check
Will check it out again to make sure but when it leaks it drips from the corner of the inside trim piece that surrounds the hatch above the v-berth.
 
While you are at it, look at the wood around the opening that the hatch sits in. The entire surface should be sealed to prevent water intrusion which leads to soft decks. This area is frequently neglected when the boats are built. Fix any voids.
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Thanks Dave. Yes I only saw that one video so i figured i would sent out a post to see if anyone else had any tips/tricks/input. Thanks for the reply.

I've watched some of his other videos specifically on how to do Gelcoat/fiberglass....he's a very talented craftsman. Wish he worked around here!
 
When I pulled my hatch the wood around the screws was rotted. Make sure to remove any rotted wood and fill the void with epoxy. After the epoxy dries you can drill holes for the screws. I used Dow Corning 795 to bed the safety glass into the hatch frame and 3M 4000UV to bed the hatch frame into the fiberglass.
 
When I pulled my hatch the wood around the screws was rotted. Make sure to remove any rotted wood and fill the void with epoxy. After the epoxy dries you can drill holes for the screws. I used Dow Corning 795 to bed the safety glass into the hatch frame and 3M 4000UV to bed the hatch frame into the fiberglass.
Thanks Chip. Great info. Appreciate the input.
 
I was up to the boat this past weekend and decided to leave it wrapped until I have the materials and time to hit the same hatch. I know I have some rot on upper left side as I have one screw that wont hold/tighten. Ones close to it all good so I am catching it early but want to get all rot out and epoxy in. Plan on using wood wedges to help unseal hatch, large drill bit to get to rotting wood, 3m 3200 sealant(just incase I or the next owner needs to do it again). Still looking for options for epoxy. Will paint tape around hatch for easy clean up. I am not fast at things I haven't done before so giving my self a 4 hour +/- time guesstimate. Could be this coming weekend, I will take pics as I go.
 
Hatch is done and no pictures.... sorry. Window came out way easier than I thought. Cleaned it up and reinstalled with 4200. Did use the painters tape and saved me having a mess to deal with. The aft end of the hatch hinges I had to really work at getting the tape out. I thought when I pulled the hatch I would have exposed wood to get at any rot but the fiberglass from the deck rolls and extends to the fiberglass ceiling behind the headliner. I did not want to cut into that if I did not have to. Having only one screw that would not grab to tighten I decided to inject resin into that whole let it dry and the screw grabbed like it was solid. I believe I caught this earlier enough that I would have not found much rot. We had a good rain the night after and it was dry as a bone next morning.
 

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