420 DA Thread

AussieTraveler said:
Topic: Refrigerator/freezer

Two questions relating to this. When we leave the boat, we leave the "Refrigerator/Freezer" breakers turned "on" on the panel for both the AC and DC. The boat is on shore power. It seems both turn off until we get back and turn all the other items on. It seems that it runs when DC power is on, but not when AC power is on. Not sure if this makes sense, but wanted to put this out there in case there is something obvious we are missing before we start looking at replacing the fridge/freezer. Note, when it is working, it works well.

Second question. The fridge bulb has blown and I need to replace it (pic attached). I've found this exact bulb online, but does anyone know if there is an LED version of this bulb that I can use?
View attachment 80744
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There is a AC to DC converter that the fridge connects to. The fridge runs off DC all the time, its the converter that switches between the two. When AC (110volt) is present it send 12v DC to fridge, when AC is not resent it sends DC from batteries.

My fridge one was broken when I bought my boat, just replaced it with one that had the same amperage output as the old one. I cant find the one I bought but I got it from an online store, most likely a camping store as they use the same ones in campers.
 
What is the average life span of engine zincs.I found after 6 months the majority of mine.needed replacement.
 
AussieTraveler said:
Topic: Refrigerator/freezer

Two questions relating to this. When we leave the boat, we leave the "Refrigerator/Freezer" breakers turned "on" on the panel for both the AC and DC. The boat is on shore power. It seems both turn off until we get back and turn all the other items on. It seems that it runs when DC power is on, but not when AC power is on. Not sure if this makes sense, but wanted to put this out there in case there is something obvious we are missing before we start looking at replacing the fridge/freezer. Note, when it is working, it works well.

View attachment 80744
Click to expand...

I had an issue similar to yours. Ran on 12 vdc, but not on 110 vac. Tracked it down to the power supply. Mine was happening on the refrigerator only. Pulled the frig out....there is a power supply behind it that basically has a logic in it that says: If AC is available, run on AC. If not, run on DC. I purchased a new power supply and wired it in, and problem solved.

This is what I ordered:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00768HDQS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Easy swap out and wire in.

Jaybeaux
 
I had one set of my props (22 x 25 4-Blade NiBrAl) tuned up last year and just put those on and sent the set I was running last year in to get tuned, the scan came back and each blade is far enough out of pitch that they need fixing.
One thing I didn’t know before is that one set has a cupping of 5 - .073 and the other has a cupping of 4 - .063.
Which one is correct?
 
Just finished replacing the SeaRay Navigator with an Axiom 9. I was able to get all existing data inputs (except radar) to the axiom so I’m pretty happy. Even the depth from the original transducer. I wanted to share my setup because I searched high and low for how to make this work and there isn’t much out there as far as getting data from old navigator input/outputs. Eventually I will replace the radar, then replace the E120 with a 12” Axiom (at which point I’ll ditch the Navigator black box. Have to do this in phases since I’m still recovering from making the down payment to buy the boat :)
Anyway, here is the diagram I made up. If anyone has questions let me know. It was actually a pretty simple install.
78A89498-B4BF-4327-AC3E-19110624A351.jpeg
A22651EA-1B0F-4334-B770-36F65B6763CE.jpeg
619923AF-707F-424F-9AEF-BCD5664A6351.jpeg
 
Does anyone know what type of belting is used on the straps that hold the bow sun pad down? Mine needed replacing last season because one strap broke and the others seemed to be disintegrating after 15 years. I bought some 1" polypropylene belting but after a couple of months it seemed to be degrading as well, maybe from being wet or from the sun?
 
Looking to upgrade the muffler on the genset. Has anyone changed their muffler out that makes it noticeably quieter?
 
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I want to follow this. Are you doing it yourself? Pictures will help!

Thanks in advance!

Jaybeaux
 
I didn't think it was loud to begin with?.... is it really notable?…. I have to look for discharge water to know the generator is running today
 
Jaybeaux said:
I want to follow this. Are you doing it yourself? Pictures will help!

Thanks in advance!

Jaybeaux
Click to expand...
I am going to try to do it. It looks pretty simple but nothing is at it seems with me.
 
Buyajet said:
Was it a simple R/R? I think the hoses are 2” already. We’re yours? I know you have to be careful about the weird rubber washer.
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Yes, the hoses are 2”, but found many cracks in the hoses so I replace both sides along with new hose clamps. Not sure what you mean about the rubber washer? I bought all the material but did have my very skinny mechanic climb back there and do it all. I know he told me the tail pipe that comes off the generator itself was a bitch to get it on.
 
I added a second muffler to my generator. It made a huge difference. I am not sure but I would say 80-90% quieter. It almost just sounds like water trickling instead of any engine noise. It is more of an inline muffler as opposed to the lift muffler it already has. My generator was crazy loud before.
 
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