40 sedan bridge forum

Boston-boater said:
Thanks that's helpful. Seems like this is the real challenging area to get too. Most other areas seem pretty accessible.
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Here are some photos during and after on the starboard and during on the port to give you an idea of the room you have to work with. You can see on the starboard I took a picture while packing the nut. I could barely reach and you can see my head in retrospect to the Hydraulic reservoir. PS I know it was low, I fixed that issue and topped it off next! PS I cracked em with the 18" plumbing rench then did the rest with the Channel locks...

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Your persistence is commendable. I received all the survey results and oil samples on the 2001 in MD. The boat is excellent shape and I think I will go forward.
 
Boston-boater said:
Your persistence is commendable. I received all the survey results and oil samples on the 2001 in MD. The boat is excellent shape and I think I will go forward.
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Enjoy your new boat! One of the best livaboard / weekend boats anywhere as far as I'm concerned. Lots of great info and people on this forum to help as you delve into projects. Everybody stay safe right now.
 
Drafter said:
Enjoy your new boat! One of the best livaboard / weekend boats anywhere as far as I'm concerned. Lots of great info and people on this forum to help as you delve into projects. Everybody stay safe right now.
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Thanks. I am very excited about it. I have a 2000 310 Sundancer now that we have loved and are ready to move up. Now just need to sell the 310.
 
ZZ13 said:
The hull zinc is ZC-406 and the trim tabs use R3. There are no shaft zincs. If you have them someone added them.
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Interesting... I have on my 04 R04 on the tabs. Since I have had the boat it had 4 shaft zincs 134 and since I had them on my past three inboard boats I have continued to use (and they do go down quite a percent every year). I use on the back a basic DMDIVERZ but only replace every 2-3 years... And if not done already don't forget you engine pencil zincs (CME2Z) and Gen zincs (130-4434 if the onan/kubota)
 
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JASON P GRIFFITH said:
Interesting... I have on my 04 R04 on the tabs. Since I have had the boat it had 4 shaft zincs 134 and since I had them on my past three inboard boats I have continued to use (and they do go down quite a percent every year). I use on the back a basic DMDIVERZ but only replace every 2-3 years... And if not done already don't forget you engine pencil zincs (CME2Z) and Gen zincs (130-4434 if the onan/kubota)
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Thanks, super helpful. My current boat has shaft zincs as well. I need to find out what zincs the Cats have in them and the gen set is new, a Kohler. All my zincs show a good amout of wear each year. Th tabs the most and the hull the least.
 
JASON P GRIFFITH said:
Interesting... I have on my 04 R04 on the tabs. Since I have had the boat it had 4 shaft zincs 134 and since I had them on my past three inboard boats I have continued to use (and they do go down quite a percent every year). I use on the back a basic DMDIVERZ but only replace every 2-3 years... And if not done already don't forget you engine pencil zincs (CME2Z) and Gen zincs (130-4434 if the onan/kubota)
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What is the diameter of the shaft?
 
For anyone needing to replace the switch panel backlighting, I had a spare red running light. I just stuck it on the surface behind the panel and removed the old wire lighting and their taped on plastic tubes. Color isnt perfectly uniform due to some wiring blockage but more than good enough. It looks much better in person than in this cell phone photo. Obviously any light of any color will work. Also I have no use for the dimmer function so I removed the module and the switch, so the new red light and all the gauge backlighting is directly wired to the Running Lights switch.
 

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ZZ13 said:
For anyone needing to replace the switch panel backlighting, I had a spare red running light. I just stuck it on the surface behind the panel and removed the old wire lighting and their taped on plastic tubes. Color isnt perfectly uniform due to some wiring blockage but more than good enough. It looks much better in person than in this cell phone photo. Obviously any light of any color will work. Also I have no use for the dimmer function so I removed the module and the switch, so the new red light and all the gauge backlighting is directly wired to the Running Lights switch.
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Nice! I didn't even know those were backlit! Ha! Great idea! More than once, I've used the light of my phone to find the switch that I was looking for!
 
are all years back lit or is this something on the newer models? I don't know if mine is or was or if the bulb is burned out
 
Bartlett Bob said:
are all years back lit or is this something on the newer models? I don't know if mine is or was or if the bulb is burned out
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It's not a bulb. It's a long el wire snaked along all three rows and each row has a clear plastic tube encasing the wire. The plastic tubes are held in place by silver foil tape. You can replace the el wire with another wire. I tried that and the wire I bought only held up for a short while. The el wire is low current AC and is powered by a small transformer that converts the dc voltage from the dimmer switch and module to the ac current. So if you replace it with a 12v led strip or a 12v light (as I did) you will need to remove the transformer as well.
 
ZZ13 said:
It's not a bulb. It's a long el wire snaked along all three rows and each row has a clear plastic tube encasing the wire. The plastic tubes are held in place by silver foil tape. You can replace the el wire with another wire. I tried that and the wire I bought only held up for a short while. The el wire is low current AC and is powered by a small transformer that converts the dc voltage from the dimmer switch and module to the ac current. So if you replace it with a 12v led strip or a 12v light (as I did) you will need to remove the transformer as well.
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Thanks, I will look into that
 
Hey guy's,
This stay at home order has us all taking care of a few details. I've planned a trip thru lake Superior and lake Mich. later this summer and was wondering if a bulk fuel delivery truck with a 1.5" nozzle will fit in the upper portion of my fuel fitting?? (03 Cummings) If I remove the chain?? Thanks Paul
 
ZZ13 said:
Thanks for all the inputs. As I mentioned I have four dual purpose group 27 wet cell. The starboard/house are still going strong. The two port have faded enough that hey won't start the engine on their own. So what I decided to do is remove the two port batteries and move the two starboard to port. Then buy two group 31 deep cycle wet cell for the starboard/house. When the port fail I'll then put the same group 31 deep cycle wet cell there.
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I finally went and bought the 2 group 31 wet cells just before the sale ended and installed them for my trip back home this week from Ft Pierce to Beaufort, SC. Started the engine great all by itself. So far so good. Let's see how longevity goes.
 
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