painting outdrives

I did not use the clear. I put on several coats of Phantom Black and called it a day. New decals really make it look new.

Bennett
 
sparky90731 said:
Ok I should of taken pics before I went back in the water and don’t know it it was anti foul paint or not , looks like a yellow primer that was under the black paint, now my dry storage is shutting down tomorrow with no access to your boat so might leave in the water until they reopen in 4 weeks
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sparky90731 said:
When I bought it they had painted the drives black
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But... what type of black paint? The yellow primer doesn't help because that could be under one layer of topcoat, or multiple layers.
 
Not sure . I bought the boat from a broker and it was sitting in a slip for 3 years so I would imagine they would paint it with anti fouling since they repainted the bottom anti foul. I bought a trailer to keep it in dry storage. Thanks
 
So if it does have antifouling paint on it - it will be a flat more grey finish than black - my advice would be to repaint with antifouling. Trying to prep those drives for painting with a gloss enamel would be a pretty big job, you would have to pretty much sand all of the antifouling paint off to get to a smooth surface you can prime then paint. Antifouling would not be my preference on a new boat that is dry stored, but it does a better job if the boat stays in the water and really with bottom paint it doesn't look bad. Also, with antifouling, people generally remove the decals.
 
sparky90731 said:
Not sure . I bought the boat from a broker and it was sitting in a slip for 3 years so I would imagine they would paint it with anti fouling since they repainted the bottom anti foul. I bought a trailer to keep it in dry storage. Thanks
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Oh, I see. I thought maybe you were posting with new information and new the type of paint. I guess it confused me since you were essentially posting again, saying the same thing? :)

If it was sitting in a salt water slip, though, then you can be about 99% assured it's anti-fouling paint. So, at this point, going on the assumption that it's AF paint... and based on your first post where it sounded like you weren't really into this job to begin with... just put another coat of AF on (depending on the current condition of course, which we won't really know until pictures).
 
Heres some pics
 

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Needing repaint
 

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The first picture looks like anti fouling paint, but the second looks like it is (was) gloss black. Either way, there is so little left of the paint, I don't think it matters which way you go. I think in the end anti fouling will look better, your never going to get the surface smooth and every imperfection is going to show with the gloss paint, the flat anti fouling will hide much of that. You have a lot of sanding to do, you have to remove all the loose paint and corrosion, then prime and paint. Assume you will remove the drives to do this, you should also cleanup and paint the transom assemblies. When you are done replace the anodes, they are pretty well done. Other than the paint looks like heck, they are not in that bad of shape having been sitting in salt water for 3 yrs with no maintenance, there is some corrosion, but it looks worse than it is, only minimal pitting.
 
Cool thx they shut down the boat storage yard so can’t get back to boat for another thirty days , would have been a good time to do this work
 
A few years ago I removed 17yr old B3's that had been wet slipped and painted with AF their entire lives. I removed what I could with cleaners and scotch pads (probably wire wheels too, I can't remember) knowing that I wouldn't get them back to "new" condition. I used Moeller paints (Zinc Chromate Primer, Merc Phantom Black, Clear) and ordered replacement decals from eBay. Again, I wasn't looking for factory new and smooth but figured someone looking for 17yr old drives would understand. Ultimately they looked much better in factory black than they would have in AF and didn't have much trouble moving them on. All total I had about $50 in paint, $50 in decals, and maybe 10-15hrs total.
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Before and after, just finished and stickers being added soon.
 

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ATLTiger97 said:
Before and after, just finished and stickers being added soon.
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Looks like quite an improvement. Sanded, epoxy, and paint? Do you mean that they were sanded, then epoxy applied to smooth out some pitting from corrosion, then painted over top of the epoxy??
 
Jimmy Buoy said:
Looks like quite an improvement. Sanded, epoxy, and paint? Do you mean that they were sanded, then epoxy applied to smooth out some pitting from corrosion, then painted over top of the epoxy??
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Yes exactly, removing some of the pitting and then painted. Trying to extend life.
 

My new boat's drives have previously been brush painted with some kind of red primer over the original shiny black, then another coat of what appears to be black flat bottom paint but are looking a little rough. I'm going to be taking them both apart in the spring to replace the steering pin/seal and all bellows and am wanting to take that opportunity to recondition the drive entirely to shiny black (as well as prevent further corrosion). May possibly have them media blasted first...
 
AJSB said:
A few years ago I removed 17yr old B3's that had been wet slipped and painted with AF their entire lives. I removed what I could with cleaners and scotch pads (probably wire wheels too, I can't remember) knowing that I wouldn't get them back to "new" condition. I used Moeller paints (Zinc Chromate Primer, Merc Phantom Black, Clear) and ordered replacement decals from eBay. Again, I wasn't looking for factory new and smooth but figured someone looking for 17yr old drives would understand. Ultimately they looked much better in factory black than they would have in AF and didn't have much trouble moving them on. All total I had about $50 in paint, $50 in decals, and maybe 10-15hrs total.

Great return on your investment!
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