Possibly louder. But since I'm always at the helm when engines are on, ain't my problem. Ha!
I have a Ray pilot 650 and a Garmin 7612, will they connect and what are the advantages as in, following the chart or navigation lines, following set points, etc. Fairly new owner still learning the electronics and thinking of upgrades, I would appreciate any help or suggestions
I founds it for $280 from boat ID so thinking about just replacing it. But if I choose to wait a year I might heed your advise!
I just hooked up the NEMA 0183 line out of my new chartplotter to the interface shown and it does full trip point by point diving and headings ETC... when I go off coarse, and click it to goback to route it tracks back just fine. I like it and don't feel a need to update the autopilot...
Yea it follows everything no problem... works like a charm
There are a few ideas here. As you can see I got the crappy adjustable to work for me.
Thank you for the link! That's the tool I pretty much bent today. but I'll wack it with the ball peen hammer and hit it with the wire brush and coat it some more with the PB. you can grab the rudder and litterally hear it clink in all directions. the water was streaming in at the end of the season...
Very funny, I love it!
That's really good work. Mine was in pieces when I bought my boat. As usual I took the poor mans approach and just removed all the hardware. I just set the bench on top with it jammed against the stern. The tab on the underside wedges inside the compartment and that holds it snug in place.Not sure if anyone has had to deal with this piece. Having the cockpit bench seat re-upholstered. This is the seat base originally made out of some sort of 1/2" plastic. Mine was broken in (3) different places. I assume from people standing on the seat over the past 20 years. I mended it together once with a 1x1 galvanized steel piece of angle iron. I ordered a 1/2"x8"x60" piece of aluminum plate online, and then cut it out with a skill saw with carbide metal cutting blade, and a jigsaw. I'm not a welder, so dropped it off at a local weld shop to join the stiffener, which could have easily been tapped and bolted together. He could have probably cleaned up his slag a bit, but it's completely out of sight.
Pretty confident that I won't have to replace it again...
I have the same problem. I wish I had your ability! For those of us less talented with no access to a machine shop there is another inexpensive (well for a boat) solution. It is just a piece of 1/2" King StarBoard. You can get custom sizing from boating outfitters and get 3/4 inch thickness for a much stronger than factory situation. Plus they have CNC and can cut it to the exact measurements. Just reach out with the dimensions and they can cut to order. If there is enough of us out there that need to do with maybe we can get a group discount with different shipping addresses. It does not hurt to ask I always say... https://www.boatoutfitters.com/cut-to-size-black-king-starboardNot sure if anyone has had to deal with this piece. Having the cockpit bench seat re-upholstered. This is the seat base originally made out of some sort of 1/2" plastic. Mine was broken in (3) different places. I assume from people standing on the seat over the past 20 years. I mended it together once with a 1x1 galvanized steel piece of angle iron. I ordered a 1/2"x8"x60" piece of aluminum plate online, and then cut it out with a skill saw with carbide metal cutting blade, and a jigsaw. I'm not a welder, so dropped it off at a local weld shop to join the stiffener, which could have easily been tapped and bolted together. He could have probably cleaned up his slag a bit, but it's completely out of sight.
Pretty confident that I won't have to replace it again...
I'm in there now repacking the rudders. it is a horrible design as the water tank sits just above so the only access you have is crawl space. To access you need to pull the exhaust hose and battery for the Gen to access starboard. Not positive all boats need the exhaust line pulled but I added a Centek inline muffler that is completely in the way. For port pull all 4 batteries and the wood baffles in between. (I also pulled the battery charger that was updated and hanging in the way) then good luck if they are leaking and never been adjusted. PB blaster soak for a couple days and then I will be bringing a 18" or 24" pipe wrench as the basic tool could not unbind it for me on day one and I broke it. For access labor-wise so far I am about 4 hours in and I work pretty efficiently...
The rear seat box is removable and clamps down. An access port below that would be unseen with the cockpit bench over the top of it.
But again, you would be accessing the top of the water tank, not the running gear that is directly below it by about 4 feet...
I got the port side done just removing the two port batteries. Didn't have to remove the starboard batteries. Squeezed in there on my right side. My right hand did all the work and my left hand fed it tools. If I remember correctly I did not mess with loosening the locking nut first. I just loosened the top nut and once that happened I could turn down the locking nut just with my hand. I've done this on two 400DBs and both boats the wimpy wrench was just fine. I think I slid a pipe over the handle for one of the nuts to get a little more torque to free it up. Also I didn't dig out old stuff. I had room to add two rings so that's what I did. Five years now and still dry without having to tighten yet.
