40 sedan bridge forum

my3sons said:
I did the same thing before we looped. The old stuff still all works and we had it on a previous boat so we both know it, but I didn't trust it to last to take off for a year and a half with it. So I put a Garmin above the RL80 on the dash 6 years ago. Now I have 2 old perfectly working MFD's. Ha!. Good luck with it.
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We are testing the endurance of this 20 year old stuff. But my RL80C and L760 aren't coming out until they fail. Here's what I run with.
 

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ZZ13 said:
We are testing the endurance of this 20 year old stuff. But my RL80C and L760 aren't coming out until they fail. Here's what I run with.
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Yup. Same setup, except my iPad is mounted (maybe on the same mount) above the RL80C. Surprisingly, it’s not in my field of vision, which is why I’m comfortable putting the axiom there. I like all my nav stuff located so I don’t have to turn my head to see them all.
 
scooper321 said:
Yup. Same setup, except my iPad is mounted (maybe on the same mount) above the RL80C. Surprisingly, it’s not in my field of vision, which is why I’m comfortable putting the axiom there. I like all my nav stuff located so I don’t have to turn my head to see them all.
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That's probably better. Main reason mine is where it is, is that I'm better with my right hand punching things on the iPad screen. And I have a double usb outlet installed just above the port engine switch.
 
It is time to look at canvas for our girl. I am toying with the idea of having the enclosure come from the bimini to the arch and leaving it open at the back. To those that have done this, how bad is the airflow into the bridge with the three sides down. Also, is the "station wagon" effect an issue. Any thoughts good or bad are welcome. The other option would be to extend the bimini and have the enclosure drop straight down so the rear of the bridge is usable with the enclosure down. Thank you.
 
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trebbel said:
It is time to look at canvas for our girl. I am toying with the idea of having the enclosure come from the bimini to the arch and leaving it open at the back. To those that have done this, how bad is the airflow into the bridge with the three sides down. Also, is the "station wagon" effect an issue. Any thoughts good or bad are welcome. The other option would be to extend the bimini and have the enclosure drop straight down so the rear of the bridge is usable with the enclosure down. Thank you.
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We did the latter, just this past summer. I see you are in Baltimore to, so talk to Marvin at charm city marine canvas. He added an additional support at the rear of our Bimini so that the glass came straight down, as you described. The increase in usable space on the sedan bridge was amazing. I highly recommend it, especially because it cost very little to do.

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Also, we usually ride with all four sides open. It does get breezy, but nothing like standing at the helm of a Sundancer. That being said, we have friends with 400s that never open the glass. You’ll find your comfort zone. We love the air.
 
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One of my favorite things about the boat is the timeless exterior lines on it (except for the dinky trapezoidal cabin windows). I actually even prefer the look of the back reaching radar arch over the forward curved arch they switched to in the next generation of the boat. Seems to show more visual balance to me. Anyway my dock mate had his drone out so he snapped a picture for me.
 
Nice boat. I'm still dreaming of splash day. 48 days and counting... We are always some of the first in the water and have the marina to ourselves. Which is kinda nice for this short window.
 
JASON P GRIFFITH said:
I had flounder pounder make mine with the cutout for the New Garmin I installed!! They rock! it was shipped to me in MA in like 2 days for $131 plus they did the cutout for 35 bucks. I e-mailed them everything and worth every penny. the link for the exact panel is https://www.searay-parts.com/Sea-ray-dash-instrument-panel-p/fp-panel-1-5-sf380410da.htm
and attached is how it came out when I installed it. it was a PERFECT~! match...View attachment 79143
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Jason, I just bought a Garmin 4212, do you have any tips on the install (interfacing) with the original electronics?
 
Hey Guys promised you a image of the hookup of the garmin wiring to the ray marine autopilot. here it is. just ground the negative and run the blue wire from your garmin to the positive in the NEMA 0183 block on the terminal. that SIMPLE! the reason for the two garmin cables in the image is I have a 7612SXV and a 942XS backup. Everything is cat 5 connectd including the radar and cameras.
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A fellow 400DB owner has rainwater turning brown and running into the guest head shower. Opened the shower access panel and found this looking back Center. White is the windshield frame. Looks like someone tried to smear some caulk in there. Center top is a metal tab up against the white frame. There are several spaced throughout. Several of them are where water is weeping in. Interesting to find the haphazard blocking holding up the top deck. That blocking is moist from the leaking. I'll let you know if I get to the bottom of this and learn anything new.
 

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ggiametta said:
So I bought a 1242 and want to change out the old SLR 80 and hook up new dome radar, and anything else it will run.
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I would do what I did above to make it talk to the autopilot per above. Then re-calibrate the autopilot. I also would put a new transducer in (I used the garmin B60 20) You could drill a new hole or what I did was I took the water speed sensor out cut the hole to the larger size doing the wood bung trick and run the line up to the bridge. Its really easy. Hardest I found of the project was feeding the lines into the radar arch for the dome and Camera where the arch meets the hull. I ended up having to remove a bolt and washer to get the power connector through. I also was running lines for the camera so two sets of power lines and two cat5 lines. I ended up using a fein tool in there to make the hole bigger. Then aligned the bolt and re-installing. I think that part which I thought would take about 30 minutes ended up taking a solid 2 days... Fun project!
 
New Question Everyone. My port portlight in the guest stateroom- the bottom knob broke off. Not the plastic but the stainless weld itself let go. Last season I notice when the boat was in the water after the first rain and also in tougher seas water was pouing in even after shimming the two sides. I put some JB weld on it to hold over till I could pull it. But I am wondering if anyone knows the replacement part for it (All I have is SR part # 1454008) I am trying to decide if I pull it and have it welded and Electropolished VS replacement all together. Any thoughts? Also anyone off hand or have easy access to the screen part number and replacement seals? My boat never came with any screeens and I would like to add them to the rooms and bathrooms and if doing so might as well redo some gaskets to play it safe... Thanks again!
 
I replaced one of the fixed style port lights in the Master stateroom with the opening type. It's the same port light that is in the port stateroom. The fixed type that is the exact replacement for the Master is no longer available and replacement is fairly easy.
The Bomar part number is S516-6-SS. I personally would replace the whole port light.
It'll be a new unit, new gasket, new screen and fresh sealant. Good luck.
 
JASON P GRIFFITH said:
New Question Everyone. My port portlight in the guest stateroom- the bottom knob broke off. Not the plastic but the stainless weld itself let go. Last season I notice when the boat was in the water after the first rain and also in tougher seas water was pouing in even after shimming the two sides. I put some JB weld on it to hold over till I could pull it. But I am wondering if anyone knows the replacement part for it (All I have is SR part # 1454008) I am trying to decide if I pull it and have it welded and Electropolished VS replacement all together. Any thoughts? Also anyone off hand or have easy access to the screen part number and replacement seals? My boat never came with any screeens and I would like to add them to the rooms and bathrooms and if doing so might as well redo some gaskets to play it safe... Thanks again!
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Thanks Jason, I was asking if there is a specific interface needed for the new chartplotter to hook up with the older equipment?
Also, the same thing happened to my portlight, I wanted to replace it but found they are very expensive, so I silicone it from the outside.
 
Has anyone here recarpeted there Salon? Is there anything good out there to replace it with? What backing for sound proofing used ?
 
ggiametta said:
Has anyone here recarpeted there Salon? Is there anything good out there to replace it with? What backing for sound proofing used ?
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Several of us have replaced it with vinyl or wood plank flooring. But I don't know of anyone who replaced it with carpet. I did replace the stateroom and hall carpet with infinity luxury vinyl flooring. So that's what I would use if I were doing a carpet to carpet replacement.
 
ZZ13 said:
Several of us have replaced it with vinyl or wood plank flooring. But I don't know of anyone who replaced it with carpet. I did replace the stateroom and hall carpet with infinity luxury vinyl flooring. So that's what I would use if I were doing a carpet to carpet replacement.
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Thanks Bill, any issues with the engine room noise?
 
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