Roller or Bunks for a 220

Zoomie

Zoomie

Member
Feb 27, 2020
30
Niagara Falls Ontario Canada
Boat Info
2005 Sea Ray Select 220, 2018 GMC Sierra
Engines
Mercury 5.0 Bravo III
I'm buying a 2005 searay 220 sundeck this spring and it needs a trailer. Should I get rollers or bunks.

I keep it in my driveway and launch in Lake Ontario, Lake Erie and Niagara River throughout the summer

I had a 20' bowrider many years ago with a roller trailer and I dont remember it being a problem. I have a 18' fishing boat now with bunks and I drive right onto the trailer.

Who's got a 220 and whats your trailer experience?
 
Another vote for bunks. Once you've seen a boat roll off the back end of the trailer as it's coming up the ramp (or being backed down the ramp) makes you a believer in bunks.
 
I’ve got 225 with a roller and have never had a problem. Steep ramps going up and down to Lake Cumberland and the Ohio River. Flat ramps on Lake Michigan.
 
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If you have help like someone driving the truck and another on the boat when launching or retrieving then I prefer bunks
If I am doing everything myself then I prefer rollers, especially for retrieving.
When I had a 260DA I had a trailer with both rollers in the front and bunks in the back...that worked really well too as you don't really need rollers under the stern if on a normal or steep ramp
 
I had bunks for my 240SD. I think more depends on how long it will sit on the trailer and what your launching ramps are like.
 
Since you will be keeping the boat on the trailer most of the time bunks would be better. Bunks provide more surface area of support for the hull.
 
All my boats have been on bunks never found a reason for a roller trailer. My 19.5'-23' boats which I ramp loaded never had a problem with a bunk trailer.
 
Wow, all great replies. I've been boating for along time this will be my 5th boat and my biggest. I'm confident I can make either work safely, but I like the idea of better support while on the trailer with bunks. It will always be on the trailer unless I'm using it. Good news is I'm buying a new trailer so I can get it configured however I want.

Thanks for the great ideas.
 
I've seen boats fall off of bunks too. Caution Notes 1 and 2 in the The Trailer Boater Instruction Manual warn you to never remove the winch strap AND the safety cable until the trailer is in the water and you are ready to launch.

Current design specs for boat launch ramps call for an incline of between 12 and 15 degrees. If you are using an older ramp that is shallower bunks may give you trouble.

If you are using any ramp that is frequented by power loaders, you may have a problem with bunks because you will have to back in further and your wheels and axle may fall off the end of the ramp and you will have a hard time pulling the trailer back out.

There are roller trailers and there are roller trailers. A good one will provide better support than bunks. Back in the olden days the design spec called for a maximum roller capacity of 125 pounds. In other words, as an example , if you had a boat that weighed 1250 pounds, your trailer needed to have 10 rollers, properly positioned. I've seen cheap trailers where each roller carried 200 pounds, and the boat bottom was dented. In my case, each roller carries 85 pounds (custom fitted) and I can turn each roller by hand.

Dealers often lead you astray because they want to keep the price down (to be competitive). Rollers add more cost, plus many dealers want to sell what they have and not be bothered by having to do a custom setup.

52 years pulling boats around and have had only 1 bunk trailer. Those bunks were trashed and replaced with roller bunks after the first time out.
 
Bunks vs rollers is often like those "best oil filter" threads. Many are good - it often comes down to personal preference and how YOU will be using the boat. Don't worry about a quality roller trailer and hull support. They will be just fine. And, I have NEVER seen a Sea Ray develop a rocker in the bottom of the hull from sitting on a roller trailer. I have seen it with some boat brands, but never a Sea Ray.

I've had both - and lot's of experience with both - from personal experience to the many, many that have come through our shop year and year after year. Point is, I wouldn't base your decision on one style being "better" for the hull, or not. On this matter, it makes no difference.
 
Lazy Daze said:
Bunks vs rollers is often like those "best oil filter" threads. Many are good - it often comes down to personal preference and how YOU will be using the boat. Don't worry about a quality roller trailer and hull support. They will be just fine. And, I have NEVER seen a Sea Ray develop a rocker in the bottom of the hull from sitting on a roller trailer. I have seen it with some boat brands, but never a Sea Ray.

I've had both - and lot's of experience with both - from personal experience to the many, many that have come through our shop year and year after year. Point is, I wouldn't base your decision on one style being "better" for the hull, or not. On this matter, it makes no difference.
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Do you have an opinion on the hard plastic covers for the bunks? I can’t recall the name, but those liners that make the bunk glide. Any issues?

I have a 220 with carpeted bunks. Have thought about layering the bunks with that glide cover.
 
DWABoat said:
Do you have an opinion on the hard plastic covers for the bunks? I can’t recall the name, but those liners that make the bunk glide. Any issues?

I have a 220 with carpeted bunks. Have thought about layering the bunks with that glide cover.
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In short... Luv 'em! The boat slides on and off almost like a roller trailer. Do you have 2x6 bunks? use the ones from Tie Down that are 3-sided (top with with sides). You screw into the sides, not the top - eliminating the possiblity of a "screw pop" gouging your gelcoat.
 
Lazy Daze said:
In short... Luv 'em! The boat slides on and off almost like a roller trailer. Do you have 2x6 bunks? use the ones from Tie Down that are 3-sided (top with with sides). You screw into the sides, not the top - eliminating the possiblity of a "screw pop" gouging your gelcoat.
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So...like the best of both worlds.
Get the low friction like rollers.
Get the low maintenance (no roller axles/bearings) like bunks.
Get the full support like bunks.

Think I will pull the trigger on that little project.

Oh - we unintentionally, unexpectedly, slid a 28-ft, 9000 lb boat off a trailer before it got to the water in one of my work boats (a SAFE Boat). What a mess. Bent the rear frame of the trailer from the weight. Broke the steering connector for the twin outboards from the shock of the motors hitting the concrete. Took an engineering team with truck winches and jacks to get it back on the trailer. I will never, NEVER, disconnect a boat from the bow winch until the transom is over deep enough water to float.
 
I have tried several brands of "bunk slicks" and only found one that was acceptable to me. That was the "EZ Slide" brand. They are "almost" as good as rollers. They have sizes to fit 4" and 6" bunks. They also make a section that goes over the ends of the bunk so that nothing can catch on them. They are heavily countersunk for SS self-tapping screws and installation onlt takes a few minutes.

My experimentation has shown that they only work on fiberglass boats, and the bunks must be aligned perfectly with the bottom of the boat.

Boston Whaler's trailer requirements actually specify the use of keel rollers. However, rollers in any other place will void the hull warranty. For whatever reason, their oem trailers have only bunks. I put EZ Slides on my Whaler trailer and that made a huge difference. However, the rig was not truly fitted for solo launching and retrieving until I put Stoltz self-centering poly keel rollers on each trailer cross-member.
 
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