Using a rotary polisher is not easy....first(ish) time through on my boat

Stee6043

Stee6043

Well-Known Member
Jun 1, 2015
6,751
West Michigan
Boat Info
1997 Sundancer 400
Engines
7.4L Gassers
Yesterday I finished a polish+wax on the hull sides on my boat. I used a Presta "ultra polish" (a very light compound) followed by a polymer wax (hand applied). I have a Dewalt rotary w/ Presta wool buffing pads.

As I was waxing I could definitely see where I was doing a less than perfect job with the polish/rotary. Three things occurred to me - 1.) Lighting can add to the challenge of polishing, 2.) the pads definitely load up about half way through a side on a 40' boat, using a spur helps...a little and 3.) a Dewalt rotary is insanely heavy as you get toward the front of the boat (assuming you start at the stern).

The lighting topic was more challenging than I thought it would be, even when using a bright work light. Based on my online education on polishing :))) if you're doing it right you work the polish until it's basically gone which happens pretty quickly if you don't overdo the polish. But depending on lighting and angle its hard to see where you've hit the sides with polish before it starts to work into a shine.

It's also quite an art trying to find the right angle for using a rotary on vertical(ish) surfaces. Keeping consistent contact without it jumping around...not super easy.

I'm going to move on to the deck now. It should be easier in terms of the weight of the polisher but there are a lot of things to work around up there. I plan to compound, polish and then wax the deck surfaces. My deck is quite a bit more chaulky than the hullsides.

Just thought I'd share since we've been a little light on portable generator threads this winter!

Until I return...she's still all tucked in.
49547567731_085d155fdd_c.jpg
 
For me the biggest challenge was geriatrics:). The older I got the less adequate the results were. I caved a couple years ago and leave it to the pro's now. There are some fairly light machines out there compared to Dewalt. Makita and Flex come to mind. A extra pound or two makes a big difference. I always tried to do it on a cloudy day. I tried jus about every product out there and always ended up back with 3M. Good luck it certainly is a good work out.
 
I've found that not only the brand/type of polish makes a difference but also the speed of the polisher (mine is a variable speed polisher) and also the type of pads. Higher speeds for polish - lower for wax. Also I have dedicated (coarseness) pads for each and I don't mix them after they're washed. Oh and don't ask me how many times I've dropped my polisher ;)
 
Captn TJ said:
I've found that not only the brand/type of polish makes a difference but also the speed of the polisher (mine is a variable speed polisher) and also the type of pads. Higher speeds for polish - lower for wax. Also I have dedicated (coarseness) pads for each and I don't mix them after they're washed. Oh and don't ask me how many times I've dropped my polisher ;)
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Any links for the pads or products is appreciated. Have stumbled through this process here and there over the years, would;d love to see what is known to work
 
I've used different brands of pads including 3M which I bought at our local NAPA store. I actually settled on 2 different "courseness" or types from Harbor Freight - one for polish and one for was for wax (2 different pad colors making it easy to identify). They seemed to do the job as well as the 3M at a fraction of the cost.
 
Coarse and medium pads for cleaner and polish. 2nd coat of polish with their ultra fine pad and then final coat of (collinite) wax which was hand applied and hand buffed. FYI I never saw a difference between hand and buffer application of wax. By the time I got to wax the boat the hull and topsides looked great so the wax is just a protective layer. Our 05 280 Blue hull looks brand new. I use the same approach on my Porsche.
 
Chris-380 said:
Any links for the pads or products is appreciated. Have stumbled through this process here and there over the years, would;d love to see what is known to work
Click to expand...

The polish/pad discussion is hard to work through. Lots of options out there. But if I could change one thing about my own approach it would have been the polisher. I'd get the smallest, lightest polisher out there if I did it again. I think the smaller units tend to be dual action but so be it. I'd give up some horsepower for usability in this case. I don't think the average weekend warrior will ever get the full use out of a hardcore Dewalt 7" polisher.
 
Just curious as I’m about to embark on this very same chore. I have a cutting compound, and a polish. Both are McGuire’s “Ultra” I believe. I also have a rotary “grinder like” power tool and a cheaper two handle orbital polisher. And of course I also have the appropriate pads for both cutting and polishing... I suppose my question is, does the wax (3rd step) help with preventing oxidation? Mind you I’m in salt water everyday whilst dreaming of fresh
 
I typically use the 3M wool bonnets for cutting/polishing and the black foam for polish wax combination products like McGuires Flagship Cleaner Wax. Seems to work fairly well.

Machristo - yes, after polishing the oxidation off, the wax should help prevent further oxidation.
 
OllieC said:
I typically use the 3M wool bonnets for cutting/polishing and the black foam for polish wax combination products like McGuires Flagship Cleaner Wax. Seems to work fairly well.

Machristo - yes, after polishing the oxidation off, the wax should help prevent further oxidation.
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Awesome, Thank you. I’ve “dabbled” a bit with both and the cutting compound definitely sends the oxidation packing, and the polish brings out a luster and shine. Was more wondering if the wax was essentially overkill in addition to the polish. Going down to the boat ina few minutes and will post pix of the two products I’m speaking of.
 
Stee6043 said:
Yesterday I finished a polish+wax on the hull sides on my boat. I used a Presta "ultra polish" (a very light compound) followed by a polymer wax (hand applied). I have a Dewalt rotary w/ Presta wool buffing pads.

As I was waxing I could definitely see where I was doing a less than perfect job with the polish/rotary. Three things occurred to me - 1.) Lighting can add to the challenge of polishing, 2.) the pads definitely load up about half way through a side on a 40' boat, using a spur helps...a little and 3.) a Dewalt rotary is insanely heavy as you get toward the front of the boat (assuming you start at the stern).

The lighting topic was more challenging than I thought it would be, even when using a bright work light. Based on my online education on polishing :))) if you're doing it right you work the polish until it's basically gone which happens pretty quickly if you don't overdo the polish. But depending on lighting and angle its hard to see where you've hit the sides with polish before it starts to work into a shine.

It's also quite an art trying to find the right angle for using a rotary on vertical(ish) surfaces. Keeping consistent contact without it jumping around...not super easy.

I'm going to move on to the deck now. It should be easier in terms of the weight of the polisher but there are a lot of things to work around up there. I plan to compound, polish and then wax the deck surfaces. My deck is quite a bit more chaulky than the hullsides.

Just thought I'd share since we've been a little light on portable generator threads this winter!

Until I return...she's still all tucked in.
49547567731_085d155fdd_c.jpg
Click to expand...
I use all Presta products. Try the black waffle foam pad with the ultra polish. I use both it and the green wool pad, but the foam is easier to keep against the hull. Also you may need to go up an abrasive notch to Ultra Cutting Creme Light. I use the white foam waffle pad with it. When I let my hull get away from me I use the Ultra Cutting Creme with the black wool pad.
 
For me it was always a 3 step process. 3M compound and finishing material with yellow foam pad. 3M cleaner wax with wool pad & hand wipe. Then 3m liquid wax by hand and remove with microfiber towel. Always turned out nice.
 
Foam pads are new technology and work great.
They do not heat up like a wool pad.
The first time I used a foam pad I was convinced it work better and easier to use would never go back to a wool pad.
 
Machristo said:
Awesome, Thank you. I’ve “dabbled” a bit with both and the cutting compound definitely sends the oxidation packing, and the polish brings out a luster and shine. Was more wondering if the wax was essentially overkill in addition to the polish. Going down to the boat ina few minutes and will post pix of the two products I’m speaking of.
Click to expand...
The polish is what brings out the luster and the wax is the protective coating that will maintain it. However, keep in mind that some detergent/boat wash products will strip away the wax coating. I'm amazed some 'boat wash' people use these type of products - they get the boat clean but strip away the wax finish.
 
Keep in mind that every time you polish, buff or compound you’re removing a measure of the good surface material w the bad. There is a point of diminishing returns.

An alternative could be to use a chemical paint/ fiberglass cleaner vs abrasive.
 
Thank you for the feedback. Always learning and a perpetual student. Here are the two products I’ve purchased so far. Goal is to do an initial “strip” (thankfully gel coat isn’t TOO oxidized) and then ongoing maintenance.
 

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I would need to see the current conditions of the gelcoat before I would advise.

I can tell you my gelcoat is 50 years old. Purchased her from original owner from WI.

It has never seen polish nor compound.
 

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Now you just need to brighten up that wheel fender El Capitan.;)
 
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