Painting prop, Rudder trim tabs and shaft?

I actually use prop one coating. It works amazing. I have installed it on 6 boats so far and I’m impresssed. I just signed up as a distributor this week I believe in it so much.

here is a 58 Viking Princess that we splashed today
 

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NotHerDecision said:
I actually use prop one coating. It works amazing. I have installed it on 6 boats so far and I’m impresssed. I just signed up as a distributor this week I believe in it so much.

here is a 58 Viking Princess that we splashed today
Click to expand...

I use Propspeed, which I assume is similar to Prop One, and I'm happy with it.

My tabs are the worst affected part of my underwater gear and any growth wipes off with your hand or microfibre cloth. Try doing that with antifouled tabs and the growth will slice and dice your hand up.
 
NotHerDecision said:
I actually use prop one coating. It works amazing. I have installed it on 6 boats so far and I’m impresssed. I just signed up as a distributor this week I believe in it so much.

here is a 58 Viking Princess that we splashed today
Click to expand...
It look like nice stuff, but is it $5.95 a can? I think most of us are looking for a way to save a couple bucks so we can spend it on beer!;)
 
Frankly it is a propspeed copy. It looks, smells, and works exactly the same but it’s half price.

I’m think I have to upgrade my account to sell it on here but pm me if you want some and I’ll figure it out.

it’s not 6 bucks but it’s great stuff that lasts. I’ve had it on my boat 2 years as a test boat before I gave in to recommending it
 
If you are asking about the cold galvanizing I have found 4 coats works best. I used to do just 2 but have found 4 coats gives better protection from barnacles especially on the trim tabs.
 
ZZ13 said:
They both are 93% zinc content. They both will perform the same. The only difference you will see is in the weight of your wallet after purchase.
Click to expand...
Maybe the shiny version hurts the barnacle's eyes...... ;)
 
NotHerDecision said:
I actually use prop one coating. It works amazing. I have installed it on 6 boats so far and I’m impresssed. I just signed up as a distributor this week I believe in it so much.

here is a 58 Viking Princess that we splashed today
Click to expand...
How easy / difficult is it to apply this stuff? I'd heard that PropSpeed was very specific and time sensitive to apply, and therefore kind of difficult to work with.
 
I'll answer in 2 parts.

Difficulty level is easy. If you can read then you can apply PropOne.

The props must be clean, after you sand them (or when they return from the prop shop) you wash them well with propwash. You do have to wear some nitrile gloves, because the oil from your hands can cause the coating to to adhere properly. Then you rinse with fresh water.

Here's the time sensitive part:

After cleaning, you apply 3 coats: 2 coats of primer, and one coat of clear. This is time sensitive, it needs to be applied one after the other and then it needs to sit without rain for 8-12 hours depending on temperature.

Here is a video:

The product works amazing, I have plenty of pictures and testimonials, if you want anything specific just PM me.

Josh
 
JVM225 said:
I’ve been using the Rustoleum Cold Galvanizing Compund on props, shafts, rudders and tabs. It works great!
Click to expand...
Is the zinc in Cold Zinc Compound also effective in corrosion resistance? If so, does the zinc content in the spray coating get dissolved like the anodes?

I am replacing the disk anodes on my tabs with new zinc disks and was planning to coat the topside of the exposed area of the tabs with some type of barrier coat. After reading this post, I am wondering if the Cold Zinc Galv would be good.
 
We usually use bottom paint on the top of the tabs and it works as expected. Just a thought.
 
electricaldoctor said:
How much $$ a foot does your diver charge and what do you get for that?
Click to expand...
I pay $3.50 per foot plus zincs if he changes them. I'm in salt water with average temps in the 50s and 60s and have him dive quarterly. Boat due to come out in Sept and will have been 4 years in the water. Diver says paint is still in good shape and really only gets sediment and slime build up and very little barnacle growth. I have no paint on metal in the water.
 
DWABoat said:
Is the zinc in Cold Zinc Compound also effective in corrosion resistance? If so, does the zinc content in the spray coating get dissolved like the anodes?

I am replacing the disk anodes on my tabs with new zinc disks and was planning to coat the topside of the exposed area of the tabs with some type of barrier coat. After reading this post, I am wondering if the Cold Zinc Galv would be good.
Click to expand...

While the rudder zinc disks have normal wear after the season, I haven’t seen any deterioration or dissolving of the Cold Zinc Compound coating on my tabs or running gear.
I would not recommend foregoing rudder zincs on your tabs.
 
Riptide III said:
I’m would not. Use that one!
I hand been using the “cold galvanizing” for a few years. It’s awesome! My buddy bought the non “cold galvanizing” shinny one and had a lot of growth! We both used our boats exactly the same amount as we boated together every week. Just my 2cents
Click to expand...

Thought I'd post this for others. SO I bought the cold and the store only had one can. I went someplace else and they only had the bright, so I bought the bright. Looking at the data on both, you are probably right. The COLD has more Zinc. Looks like I won't be using the bright..

https://www.rustoleum.com/~/media/D...zing,Compound repairs more weathered surfaces.

Rust-Oleum® Professional Galvanizing Sprays contain a high loading of zinc used to touch-up damaged or weathered galvanized surfaces such as gutters and fences. The Bright Galvanizing Compound allows you to match newer galvanized surfaces while the Cold Galvanizing Compound repairs more weathered surfaces.
7584 contains 80% zinc and 12% aluminum in the dry film.
7585 contains 93% zinc in the dry film.
.PRODUCTS .
7584838 Bright Galvanizing Compound
7585838 Cold Galvanizing Compound
 
mnm99 said:
Thought I'd post this for others. SO I bought the cold and the store only had one can. I went someplace else and they only had the bright, so I bought the bright. Looking at the data on both, you are probably right. The COLD has more Zinc. Looks like I won't be using the bright..

https://www.rustoleum.com/~/media/DigitalEncyclopedia/Documents/RustoleumUSA/TDS/English/CBG/Professional/PRO-08_Galvanizing_Sprays_TDS.ashx#:~:text=Rust-Oleum® Professional Galvanizing,Compound repairs more weathered surfaces.

Rust-Oleum® Professional Galvanizing Sprays contain a high loading of zinc used to touch-up damaged or weathered galvanized surfaces such as gutters and fences. The Bright Galvanizing Compound allows you to match newer galvanized surfaces while the Cold Galvanizing Compound repairs more weathered surfaces.
7584 contains 80% zinc and 12% aluminum in the dry film.
7585 contains 93% zinc in the dry film.
.PRODUCTS .
7584838 Bright Galvanizing Compound
7585838 Cold Galvanizing Compound
Click to expand...
Good research. I apologize for assuming they were the same zinc content. Although the can does not list aluminum in the ingredients. Just zinc and some solvents.
 
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