Late 90's 270 Sundancer Thread

View attachment 69839 View attachment 69840 View attachment 69841 One thing we struggled with on our 270 was grill storage. With twin 4.3s and a genny we didn’t have enough space in the engine bay. So we had to store our grill in the cabin which took up a lot of room and made the cabin smell like a grill.
So we bought a Blackstone 17” griddle which takes up a lot less room when in its bag and I made a new table storage compartment to replace the original one. This one still holds the cockpit table if need be (we never store it down there) but it also stores the folding transom grill table I made last year along with the Blackstone.
Also, the original table storage wall was fastened in place with twelve screws into 2 boards which were held in place with 4 more screws which made it a royal PITA to take out to get to the genny. This one is held in place with 4 wire lock pins and can be removed without any tools in a matter of minutes.
The pics of halfnutz' engine bay brings up two questions on my mind as I consider a late-90's through 2001 270 in 9'2" beam. Having owned twins and singles, I'm actually tossed up on 7.4 MPI w/ Bravo III vs. twin 4.3 Alphas. Are the 4.3s carbureted? That will make my decision easier, as I am ready to join the world of fuel injection. I'll be fine if I never mess with another Holley or Q-Jet for the rest of my life, and I want twist of the key starts, hot and cold. Also, I was assuming twins meant a tight fit for a generator install; with 4.3s, can you really remove the gen without pulling an engine? That is the case in my 268, which sucks, cause the only service one can perform on the gen in position is an oil change - forget about carb, water pump or ignition system work without pulling the port engine in order lift the Onan out.

Final question, related to the quandary between twins and sole big block; is there a way to mount a kicker outboard on these boats? Pics/thread reference if you'd be so kind.

Thanks!
 
Marine Vinyl for my 2001 270 DA. Hello all. My boat has been redone by the previous owner and I don’t like it. In my research for the correct vinyl I didn’t find a concrete answer but now I think I have it.

In my owners Bag, I found every piece of literature in pristine condition. One of them was the Morbern Vinyl Care Instruction Guide for your Sea Ray Interior.

I am fortunate in that in my town we have a large scale professional apholstery shop, Archbold. They have done OEM work for Acura, Argo and they currently do the interiors for Rossiter Boats.

I have one remaining cushion, the Cock Pit table replacement lounge cushion, and it has almost never been used and appears to have been lightly exposed to UV.

I took it in and we went through hundreds of samples, including Morbern. I found a very close colour from Morbern but it had a definite “sheen” to the material.

Archbold has very high regard for the Zander vinyls and that is what they use in Rossiters. After looking through the samples, I’m confident I found a perfect match in Zander Ivory #3101.

The pictures below are my boat compared to a twin at our marina with factory original interior.

The online sample picture of the vinyl is not close to the actual colour. https://www.miamicorp.com/default.aspx?page=item+detail&itemcode=ZAN3101&catlist=35171&parent=73

Hope this helps anyone looking for an interior replacement.
 

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The pics of halfnutz' engine bay brings up two questions on my mind as I consider a late-90's through 2001 270 in 9'2" beam. Having owned twins and singles, I'm actually tossed up on 7.4 MPI w/ Bravo III vs. twin 4.3 Alphas. Are the 4.3s carbureted? That will make my decision easier, as I am ready to join the world of fuel injection. I'll be fine if I never mess with another Holley or Q-Jet for the rest of my life, and I want twist of the key starts, hot and cold. Also, I was assuming twins meant a tight fit for a generator install; with 4.3s, can you really remove the gen without pulling an engine? That is the case in my 268, which sucks, cause the only service one can perform on the gen in position is an oil change - forget about carb, water pump or ignition system work without pulling the port engine in order lift the Onan out.

Final question, related to the quandary between twins and sole big block; is there a way to mount a kicker outboard on these boats? Pics/thread reference if you'd be so kind.

Thanks!
Yes the 4.3's are carbureted.
The generator would be in the center forward space of the engine bay. Looking at our genny, I believe that it can be removed without removing the engines and I think, if anything, the 7.4 might be more of an issue as far as that is concerned with it being a larger motor and in the center directly in line with the generator as opposed to the smaller 4.3's on either side (just a guess).
Yes it is tight with the 4.3's. It is difficult to access anything in the engine bay with the twins. So working on anything down there is a PITA
 
In need of a little help here. We have a 98 270 Sundancer wide body with twin 4.3’s. I haven’t started the engines in about 6 weeks. No issues at that time.
Since then I replaced the dash panels and VHF radio. I decided to start the motors tonight just to make sure there weren’t any issues before the weekend (I do this every time before a boating weekend). I started the starboard engine first and let it warm up. When I went to start the port engine, nothing. I checked all 3 batteries and they are all charged. I pulled the panel with the ignition switches to see if the switch is bad. There’s no power going to the switch so I checked the breaker and no power to it either. I traced the wire back to the plug and there’s no power at that pin either.
Looking for ideas or suggestions as to what it could be or what to check next.
Thanks in advance for any help you can give.
 
Hey all, new to the Sea Ray Cruiser family. Quick question about fresh water holding tank. When filling, I get about 8-10 gallons in and it acts as if it is full (overflowing from the fill tube). I can see the level through the white tank so I know is only about 1/3 full. Any reason it wouldn't fill up all the way?
 
I have the exact same question.
 
Hey all, new to the Sea Ray Cruiser family. Quick question about fresh water holding tank. When filling, I get about 8-10 gallons in and it acts as if it is full (overflowing from the fill tube). I can see the level through the white tank so I know is only about 1/3 full. Any reason it wouldn't fill up all the way?
Hey all, new to the Sea Ray Cruiser family. Quick question about fresh water holding tank. When filling, I get about 8-10 gallons in and it acts as if it is full (overflowing from the fill tube). I can see the level through the white tank so I know is only about 1/3 full. Any reason it wouldn't fill up all the way?
I have the same difficulty when filling the freshwater tank in our 270. I think the tank can't vent quick enough when filling with a good stream of water. I just slow the fill hose down to a good trickle and about 15 minutes later the tank is full.
 
Hey all, new to the Sea Ray Cruiser family. Quick question about fresh water holding tank. When filling, I get about 8-10 gallons in and it acts as if it is full (overflowing from the fill tube). I can see the level through the white tank so I know is only about 1/3 full. Any reason it wouldn't fill up all the way?

Yes, it is a venting issue. Mace sure the vent is not partially plugged by insect nests etc.

MM
 
I have exactly the same problem. I just slow down and take my time.
 
In need of a little help here. We have a 98 270 Sundancer wide body with twin 4.3’s. I haven’t started the engines in about 6 weeks. No issues at that time.
Since then I replaced the dash panels and VHF radio. I decided to start the motors tonight just to make sure there weren’t any issues before the weekend (I do this every time before a boating weekend). I started the starboard engine first and let it warm up. When I went to start the port engine, nothing. I checked all 3 batteries and they are all charged. I pulled the panel with the ignition switches to see if the switch is bad. There’s no power going to the switch so I checked the breaker and no power to it either. I traced the wire back to the plug and there’s no power at that pin either.
Looking for ideas or suggestions as to what it could be or what to check next.
Thanks in advance for any help you can give.

Sorry, I forgot to follow up on this.
It turned out to be a ground wire mounted to a wrong post on the back of the sync gauge.
It was blowing the 15A mini fuse behind the engine about 6" from the big black ignition wiring plugs.
 
On the 1998-2001 270 Sundancer with the 9'2" beam, can anyone tell me the vertical height inside the transom locker that you access from the swim platform? I'm trying to order a new fortress stern anchor and can't get to the boat to measure that height.
 
On the 1998-2001 270 Sundancer with the 9'2" beam, can anyone tell me the vertical height inside the transom locker that you access from the swim platform? I'm trying to order a new fortress stern anchor and can't get to the boat to measure that height.
My Kohler 5ecd fit inside my engine bay by just removing the closed cooling on the 7.4l. I did not do this myself, but I see it on the receipt for when it was installed.


I will check that locker height when I go to my boat this weekend.
 
My Kohler 5ecd fit inside my engine bay by just removing the closed cooling on the 7.4l. I did not do this myself, but I see it on the receipt for when it was installed.


I will check that locker height when I go to my boat this weekend.

Thanks, I really appreciate that.
 
I finished updating/upgrading our helm/dash area with new:
-steering wheel
-gauge panel
-blue bulbs for gauge backlights
-center dash panel
-VHF
-tablet mount (for Galaxy Tab A with Navionics)
-switch panels
-rocker switch covers
-toggle switch covers (for windlass & trailer trim switches)

I still need to replace the ignition switch covers (I forgot to order them).

Did you cut out a space for the tablet holder or did you just mount the holder to the dash panel?
 
Thanks, I really appreciate that.

The dimensions slope up as you know along the hatch. At the very opening it's 15" then Midway 19" then the highest point at the last few inches of the back of the hatch are 23". Hope that helps.
 
The dimensions slope up as you know along the hatch. At the very opening it's 15" then Midway 19" then the highest point at the last few inches of the back of the hatch are 23". Hope that helps.
That's exactly what I needed to know. Thanks.
 
That's exactly what I needed to know. Thanks.

My fridge is dead so I pulled it out and had to measure all that as well. Pretty tough to find a reasonably priced replacement. The direct replacement Norcold models are $1000! That's steep for my 20 year old boat.
 
My fridge is dead so I pulled it out and had to measure all that as well. Pretty tough to find a reasonably priced replacement. The direct replacement Norcold models are $1000! That's steep for my 20 year old boat.

Throw those measurements in here too. That time will come for the rest of us sooner or later.
 
Did you cut out a space for the tablet holder or did you just mount the holder to the dash panel?

I mounted the holder directly to the panel. I did use nylon spacers at the bottom to tilt it upwards slightly for the angle I wanted
 
Throw those measurements in here too. That time will come for the rest of us sooner or later.

The dimensions are 18.5"W x 20.75"H x variable depth (16" bottom, 21" slightly higher sloping to 26")

The tricky part is the bottom, its shallow but then quickly spaces out as the hull slopes upward. So a fridge with 18" depth will fit as long as the max depth occurs higher up. That's basically how the stock fridge is.

0209201625.jpg 0209201625.jpg 0209201626.jpg 0209201626b.jpg 0209201627.jpg 0209201627a.jpg
 

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