2010 330 sundancer water pump replacement HELP

Davidwardlaw

Davidwardlaw

New Member
Sep 6, 2017
17
Boat Info
2010 330 Sundancer
Engines
Twin 350 MAG's Bravo III Axius
Has anybody had to replace the water pump on the 350 mag stern drive set up? It has two y connectors right at the pump and no quick disconnect.
 
Any idea why it has two water pickups?
 
The red color hose that is not flexible at all usually has a quick disconnect. This set up has a sea cock and strainer with a Y fitting to tie in to the out drive pick up. Two sources of water going into one hose.
 
upload_2020-2-1_22-53-54.jpeg
 
The issue I am having is replacing the water pump. Or just changing the impeller for that matter.
 
Most likely when the thru hull’s were installed, they T’eed into the red hose from the outdrive water pickup. This allows a small amount of water to still be drawn in through the outdrive, keeping it cooler.

The 2 hoses on the rear of my raw water pump are secured with worm clamps, not quick connects.
 
I don't recall ever seeing the main water hoses (both inlet and outlet at the pump) connected with quick connects. It's always been worm gear clamps, as Espos4 said. If memory serves, the 330DA came standard with the thru-hull pickup, even with sterndrives. I think the Axius/fresh water cooling may have something to do with having both intakes - or possibly because the boat could also be configured for v-drives, the hull got thru-hull intakes regardless of the drive system and then, if it had sterndrives, they simply added the Y.

But, regardless, that doesn't affect what you're trying to do. The process to replace the impeller is the same. Remove all hoses attached to the pump, then remove the pump by removing the BRACKET (3 bolts) from the engine. Take the whole thing to your workbench.

Be glad you have such a user-friendly bilge to work with - most boats are MUCH more difficult to work in that what you have!
 
We got the pump off and replaced impeller just trying to get the red hose back on the pump. It’s cold here so it does not want to go back on.
 
Heat the hose up and/or use some dishwashing soap. If you use a heat gun, be sure the bilge is first FULLY ventillated... that whole "gas fumes" thing doesn't combine well with a heat gun or hair dryer. Try the soap, first.
 
We did try the soap method. I’m guessing the temperature is our problem.
 
Lazy Daze said:
I think the Axius/fresh water cooling may have something to do with having both intakes - or possibly because the boat could also be configured for v-drives...
Click to expand...

I can remove two of those possibilities—I have Axius in a boat that was also available in V-drive and still only have the water intake through the drive. Perhaps it’s a due to the fresh water cooling system configuration?

And as you said, it’s immaterial but a bit of curiosity...
 
stephenm27 said:
I can remove two of those possibilities—I have Axius in a boat that was also available in V-drive and still only have the water intake through the drive. Perhaps it’s a due to the fresh water cooling system configuration?
Click to expand...
Maybe? Curiosity got the better of me so I looked at parts manuals for 330DA's from 2008 through 2016. I looked specifically at the "Water intake system for stern drives". In each case, it ONLY showed thru-hull pickups, but also made note of a "not shown" item named "ACC PART, MERC "Y" SC WTR PICK-UP FITTING"... which certainly sounds like the Y-fitting the OP is talking about.

Note: In 2010, there is an extra line in the description: "(USED W/FRESH WATER COOLING, DTS & AXIUS ENGINES)". So that at least explains it for the OP. But your parts manual doesn't match with what you have - it could just be a mistake in the parts manual.
 
Only makes sense that if you have factory installed thru-hulls your going to have that Y fitting with I/O's.

My closed cooled 2006 280 had them when new.
 
Lazy Daze said:
Yup. I know exactly what you're dealing with - especially the inlet (suction) hose since it's reinforced. The output hose is usually normal rubber, so no big deal.
Click to expand...
Lazy Daze said:
Maybe? Curiosity got the better of me so I looked at parts manuals for 330DA's from 2008 through 2016. I looked specifically at the "Water intake system for stern drives". In each case, it ONLY showed thru-hull pickups, but also made note of a "not shown" item named "ACC PART, MERC "Y" SC WTR PICK-UP FITTING"... which certainly sounds like the Y-fitting the OP is talking about.

Note: In 2010, there is an extra line in the description: "(USED W/FRESH WATER COOLING, DTS & AXIUS ENGINES)". So that at least explains it for the OP. But your parts manual doesn't match with what you have - it could just be a mistake in the parts manual.
Click to expand...
I don't want to modify the set up because I am sure that it s plumbed this way for a reason. I do have the DTS / Axius and Seacore. It just makes doing regular maintenance very difficult. Basically in order to change the impellers you have to remove the red stiff hose from the pump.
 
Davidwardlaw said:
I don't want to modify the set up because I am sure that it s plumbed this way for a reason. I do have the DTS / Axius and Seacore. It just makes doing regular maintenance very difficult. Basically in order to change the impellers you have to remove the red stiff hose from the pump.
Click to expand...
I don’t think anyone is recommending modifications—only trying to determine why you have the through hull intakes in what appears to be the OEM configuration. Towards that end, I believe it’s because of the Seacore/fresh-water cooling (not DTS/Axius).

Re your actual problem, I’ve found improving access to the back of the pump by removing the alternator (easy) can sometimes help. But I don’t have heat exchanger that appears might also clutter the area. The CF3 module is the real obstruction but moving it is a little trickier (and is also attached to the water hoses you are already wrestling with).

Mercruiser engineering at its finest.
 
Right. No modifications implied or needed. As mentioned above, regardless of which intake system you have/don't have, you still have a reinforced hose on the inlet side of the pump. That doesn't change.

Unless... David, are you still under the impression/thinking that there should be quick connects for the water hoses to the pump? That is not the case.

You could switch to a crank-mounted pump, though, if you wanted to. The pump would be mounted right in (on the) front of the engine. Impeller changes become a 10-minute job.
 
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