Vinyl Wood Flooring

FeLizDream

FeLizDream

Active Member
Jun 28, 2015
253
Marco Island Marina Yacht Club, FL
Boat Info
2001 Sea Ray 400 Sedan Bridge, with engine synchronizer.
Engines
Cummins 6cta 450 HP, prop 22 Lx 22" L cup.
I just finish install vinyl wood flooring from Lowes, the new material is "Smartcore" vinyl color: Canberra Acacia, it matches the interior cherry wood, it is a little bit darker, the material works like really wood is 5.5 mm and you need a jigsaw to cut it, the same tolls as installing real wood flooring. I glue it down using polyurethane glue for wood flooring.
My boat is a Sea Ray 400 sedan bridge year 2001, with cherry wood interior.
Here are some picture.





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FeLizDream said:
I just finish install vinyl wood flooring from Lowes, the new material is "Smartcore" vinyl color: Canberra Acacia, it matches the interior cherry wood, it is a little bit darker, the material works like really wood is 5.5 mm and you need a jigsaw to cut it, the same tolls as installing real wood flooring. I glue it down using polyurethane glue for wood flooring.
My boat is a Sea Ray 400 sedan bridge year 2001, with cherry wood interior.
Here are some picture.





Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

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FeLizDream said:
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The stair, I took that home, removed all the carpet, installed a wood bullnose from Floor and Decor, and cover it all with a new plywood birch, then open new openings for the AC with a small opening
It took me 3 days to rebuild the stair
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I stained but the color didn't match, so I sanded it all and stain it again with a matching color, the finish with clear coat of Satin polyurethane
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Job is done, now looking for the next project, it never ends...
That's the beauty of boating




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Looks great! Looks like you painted the gelcoat inside edges of the hatches a dark color. Is that right?


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Hi, Bill,
I got the idea of the vinyl flooring from you, great tips.
Yes I did paint the borders where I cut the vinyl with stain wood paint.
But not the gel coat, I just put a blue tape temporary for protection.



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Yes, it's a real low cost, high value improvement. You picked a really nice color and pattern. My only side effect has been that the extra weight keeps my port hatch from staying open. I have to prop it up when I want to keep it open.


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I assume that is the engine room under the hatches?
I was having a hard time trying to figure out how to go from carpeted floor hatches to something like this without exposing the cabin to bilge. With your A/C's on, you will be drawing air from wherever the A/C can get it.
I used a system that is primarily targeted at safe room floor hatches in the midwest.
Search for my posts about redoing my 370 Sundancer salon with Allure (Home Depot, but basically the same idea)
www.jonnycorners.com
That aside, beautiful installation!
 
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370Dancer said:
I assume that is the engine room under the hatches?
I was having a hard time trying to figure out how to go from carpeted floor hatches to something like this without exposing the cabin to bilge. With your A/C's on, you will be drawing air from wherever the A/C can get it.
I used a system that is primarily targeted at safe room floor hatches in the midwest.
Search for my posts about redoing my 370 Sundancer salon with Allure (Home Depot, but basically the same idea)
www.jonnycorners.com
That aside, beautiful installation!
Click to expand...
On our 400DB there is a thick rubber seal under the underside of the hatches. Plus I run my bilge fans whenever the engines are on to help cool the engine room and keep engine room air flowing out the sides of the boat. Also I have a rug which covers most all the hatch seams. I have had mine like Feliz's for a while and haven't noticed any bilge odors on the salon. Probably getting more heat than with that factory foam backed carpet. But that pretty much disintegrated after 15 years anyway.


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I also find out that was easier to do a templete of the work as you did and then cut the laminate, it makes the job faster and easier. At the begining i was strugling cutting piece by piece, and the pieces didnt match really well. Interesting the " www.jonnycorners.com" you used, our job is a little different because our hatches opens with a long hinge , for your case it works very well. good job.
Feliz Dream.
 
Last edited:
Looks great. Plan to do the same to mine. what kind of adhesive did you use? how is it holding up? was the removal and reinstall of the hatch latches difficult? did you put the carpeted baseboards back in or just leave it bare or put something in its place?
 
emtalasux said:
Looks great. Plan to do the same to mine. what kind of adhesive did you use? how is it holding up? was the removal and reinstall of the hatch latches difficult? did you put the carpeted baseboards back in or just leave it bare or put something in its place?
Click to expand...
My flooring was snap and click so I just ran a bead of caulk under the outside boards. The inner boards just float there. Hatch latches are simple to remove and reinstall. The length is adjustable so the extra height of the floor isn't an issue. I removed the table floor mount and just laid the planks right over it. We don't want a table in the salon. I replaced the carpet baseboard with a flexible vinyl quarter round that I stained to match. Picture of it is here:

http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/40-sedan-bridge-forum.53961/page-79#post-887970
 
Thanks for the info. Hoping to get this project done this month. I'm totally over having to pull up the carpet to get into the engine room and the old carpet is shedding the foam backing. Do the carpeted baseboards just pop out with a pry bar? I assume they are held in place by plastic retainers like car interior panels but hate to find out they are screwed in and damage the cabinets.
Also my struts that hold up the engine hatch barely hold it up currently. Do yours slam down with the extra weight of the vinyl planks? I'd like to replace them with heavier struts or an electrically powered system. Has anyone done this?
 
emtalasux said:
Thanks for the info. Hoping to get this project done this month. I'm totally over having to pull up the carpet to get into the engine room and the old carpet is shedding the foam backing. Do the carpeted baseboards just pop out with a pry bar? I assume they are held in place by plastic retainers like car interior panels but hate to find out they are screwed in and damage the cabinets.
Also my struts that hold up the engine hatch barely hold it up currently. Do yours slam down with the extra weight of the vinyl planks? I'd like to replace them with heavier struts or an electrically powered system. Has anyone done this?
Click to expand...
I left mine in, except for the transition from the salon to the mid cabin. It was plywood covered with carpeting, and screwed into the edge of the floor. I'd look for screws. Or, if you don't want to keep it intact, it should bust up pretty easy except around the screws.
 
FeLizDream said:
The stair, I took that home, removed all the carpet, installed a wood bullnose from Floor and Decor, and cover it all with a new plywood birch, then open new openings for the AC with a small opening

It took me 3 days to rebuild the stair
dd968d4611a22f17b50a8f78605cbecd.jpg
5b5b3d0cbd28196f28dcc86a1d5954f8.jpg
02ae496936ba14c7137c8d0c339a11f8.jpg
c19e7bd678b7eded7e13de42f329e93d.jpg
fe30abe8dd2c2dd9acbbcbe054ec83a1.jpg


I stained but the color didn't match, so I sanded it all and stain it again with a matching color, the finish with clear coat of Satin polyurethane
a5bb9a53c87387c065c7046a4472c08e.jpg
02d5395684b3a499427e4ecf8249b07a.jpg
1b95e9d201eb2f01401feb26570ab9c2.jpg


Job is done, now looking for the next project, it never ends...
That's the beauty of boating




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Looks great, professional job!
 
emtalasux said:
Thanks for the info. Hoping to get this project done this month. I'm totally over having to pull up the carpet to get into the engine room and the old carpet is shedding the foam backing. Do the carpeted baseboards just pop out with a pry bar? I assume they are held in place by plastic retainers like car interior panels but hate to find out they are screwed in and damage the cabinets.
Also my struts that hold up the engine hatch barely hold it up currently. Do yours slam down with the extra weight of the vinyl planks? I'd like to replace them with heavier struts or an electrically powered system. Has anyone done this?
Click to expand...
The carpeted baseboard is screwed into the side of the cabinet. It takes time and patience to hunt for the screw heads. I used a pointed knife and poked around until I heard the click sound of metal to metal.
 
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