Cool Fuel Gen III Issue - Full Replace vs Body

Katemma Life

Member
Oct 7, 2018
135
cape cod
Boat Info
2007 sea ray 290 SLX
Engines
Twin mercruiser MAG 350 MPI w/ Bravo III
So I have a serious issue with the cool Fuel module leaking sea water at the inlet to the body. Its about to let go and I need to replace the module.
A full replacement is $1300 per engine but the body replacement only is $500 per engine only.
I have been talking to mercury folks and there is an additional issue I need to investigate. Apparently Mercury painted the inside of these and there is a known issue with paint bubbling and going up into the fuel injection system and causing real harm. They are explaining that I should back away some bolt on the regulator side that overlaps a silver disc; wiggle it out to see if there is bubbling paint or not.. that would determine if these units were previously replaced and determine my path forward (ive only owned this boat 2 years).
Can anyone walk me through this with a little more discription or even a picture? I am not really sure what I am doing (or going to do).
Thanks!
 
heres a pic
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the "silver disc" is the thing with the small hose pushed on it on the far left side of your pic - I would not bother pulling the regulator out to check, as you need to remove the whole unit anyway - I just did the housings on mine - when you pull the cover with the regulator in it off, you will immediately know if you have a problem - if you do, use solvent (paint stripper) or have the cover bead blasted to remove the paint - reassemble and you'll be good to go - some tips - order the special o-ring that connects the outgoing hi press line to the cover - be careful with the regulator o-rings as they are not available separately and a bit tough to source in the correct size and material from the aftermarket - reassmbeling the pumps (there are 2 under there, lift and hi-press) can be a PIA, just go slow
 
I would look into the service bulletin Mercury has out.
 
Thanks guys. Is there any way for me to identify if these cool fuel modules have already been replaced by a serial umber on the housing somewhere?

"ididntdoit" - let me ask you; theres some talk about the torque setting for the mounting bolts on the regulator side being wrong and these bolts breaking when you try to get them off - any of that happen to you?
Also, did you give any thought to just replacing the side barbs with stainless ones? retapping etc..?
 
if it has the connection with the bolt in the middle for the water hoses and no blue "wingnut" drainplug in the front it has not been replaced - Yes, I did have a cover bolt snap and had to drill it out - a few people have reported the new housing is not tapped for the cover and merc wants to sell you some crazy expensive screws, but that was not my experience. Really not a lot of material in the existing case to tap or modify the fittings and one of mine was actually corroded through on the inside. I know someone was making duplicate fittings in stainless for the "stock" setup at one point - i guess this system could work if you could track them down (assuming no corrosion on your current housing) - merc tries to sell you a water hose kit to do the conversion. you dont need it, just use a pliers to squeeze the end of the exising hoses to crack the fittings, then extract the pieces with a needle nose.
 
if it has the connection with the bolt in the middle for the water hoses and no blue "wingnut" drainplug in the front it has not been replaced - Yes, I did have a cover bolt snap and had to drill it out - a few people have reported the new housing is not tapped for the cover and merc wants to sell you some crazy expensive screws, but that was not my experience. Really not a lot of material in the existing case to tap or modify the fittings and one of mine was actually corroded through on the inside. I know someone was making duplicate fittings in stainless for the "stock" setup at one point - i guess this system could work if you could track them down (assuming no corrosion on your current housing) - merc tries to sell you a water hose kit to do the conversion. you dont need it, just use a pliers to squeeze the end of the exising hoses to crack the fittings, then extract the pieces with a needle nose.
I just received my modules, injectors, fuel rails free from Mercury!
 
My mechanic explained to me that the paint issue with Cool Fuel III was a mid-2000s issue and was fixed with anodized or unpainted (can't remember which) modules.

I had the painted ones with the starboard one peeling, and it was resulting in 50% excess fuel consumption on the starboard side, a tough problem to get diagnosed correctly -- I paid one mechanic who was baffled, and talked to a couple others who never mentioned CFIII as a potential problem until I found a great mechanic (props to Indoor Boat Storage in Minnesota, their guys are good for this neck of the woods).

I got new modules and injectors for both motors as a warranty item from Mercury, but had to pay labor for installation. The motors run great now and no more uneven fuel consumption.
 
I just received my modules, injectors, fuel rails free from Mercury!

did you have to go through an autorized service center and have them do the work or did they just send you the parts? was your boat exhibiting problems or was this just done as PM or an upgrade?
 
I just received my modules, injectors, fuel rails free from Mercury!

did you have to go through an autorized service center and have them do the work or did they just send you the parts? was your boat exhibiting problems or was this just done as PM or an upgrade?
 
thats funny. I spoke to the mercruiser tech rep and he could not have been more adamant (a jerk) saying that they wouldnt pay for anything associated with this problem.

anyway - ididntdoit: "if it has the connection with the bolt in the middle for the water hoses and no blue "wingnut" drainplug in the front it has not been replaced" --- nice piece of information. I will check this out.

Lastly: I know my engines were in this time frame where this was an issue. If these modules havent been replaced would you guys go for the full module replacement as a piece of mind solution if you could afford it????
Thanks
 
did you have to go through an autorized service center and have them do the work or did they just send you the parts? was your boat exhibiting problems or was this just done as PM or an upgrade?
It was having some issues. Nothing significant. Running a bit rich. When mechanic replace manifolds he checked them and found peeling paint on the screen. It did have to go to a certified Mercury dealer. I was lucky and my mechanic was able to work with a local dealer. JP
 
thats funny. I spoke to the mercruiser tech rep and he could not have been more adamant (a jerk) saying that they wouldnt pay for anything associated with this problem.

anyway - ididntdoit: "if it has the connection with the bolt in the middle for the water hoses and no blue "wingnut" drainplug in the front it has not been replaced" --- nice piece of information. I will check this out.

Lastly: I know my engines were in this time frame where this was an issue. If these modules havent been replaced would you guys go for the full module replacement as a piece of mind solution if you could afford it????
Thanks

Yours is definitely the old set up - I can see the clamp bracket and lack of plug in the front - the full module replacement is the easy way - no worry of broken bolts or headaches putting things back together
 
You won't have to pay for the parts if your module is one of the ones affected, just labor.
I replaced the barbed fittings with stainless ones. I'll look up the guys contact for you if you want. I'm not sure if he has anymore left, but if he does, and that's all you need, it's an inexpensive fix.
 

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